Lining a shed; Options and alternatives

[Cliff Rogers]

I rolled mine out over the ply sheet before I attached the sheet to the wall.

I cut it slightly over size & the trimmed it off once the ply was screwed to the wall.

[FenceFurniture]

Probably worth having a look through this thread, which was a plywood lining (and ridiculously cheap at $25 a sheet).

[slopey]

I rolled mine out over the ply sheet before I attached the sheet to the wall.

I cut it slightly over size & the trimmed it off once the ply was screwed to the wall.

Cliff:

Thanks for the info.

Slopey.

[slopey]

Probably worth having a look through this thread, which was a plywood lining (and ridiculously cheap at $25 a sheet).

FF:

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

Slopey.

[McPete]

Thanks for the ideas guys- Yellow tongue or Melamine are sounding good. I'll call around the kitchen places in Fyshwick when I get my act together.

[labrat]

Initally I insulated and lined the ends of my shed with 19mm structeral ply with tongues. This was so I could get rid of the diagonal braces that the Titan people put in to add rigidity to the shed and to give me a place to hang stuff. My nephew is an engineer and calculated that the particular ply wood was far stronger than the ugly little braces that were always in the way.

I insulated and lined the side walls with 16mm flooring ply as it just had to be thick enough to allow items to be screwed to it and at the time it was a lot cheaper than the thicker stuff and that was a big consideration due to limited funds.

After I retired and had a few spare dollars I decided to have the ceiling insulated and lined with 17mm structural ply and at the same time had an electrician put in a sub box and a whole lot of lights,double power points and drop down power points as well as 15 and 20 amp outlets. A good sheet lifter handles the thick ply and it is actually easier to install, according to the carpenter, than thin stuff as it stays flat and the plastic tongues keep it lined up. The carpenters who did the work( I'm not up to it any longer) spent some time carfully filling the tophat sections with pine that had been bevelled on both sides to fit inside the section with the timber only about 1mm below the top hat metal. The timber was screwed in place with50mm roofing screws through the side of the tophat. This gave them a sizeable target to screw up into, something that was strong and also ensured an excellent finish on the job.

The ceiling provided an instant and marked drop in the summer temps inside the shed. Previously I worked outside as the shed was far too hot for anything but the shortest time. Now on very hot days I run the aircon for a few mins to drop the temp and turn it off. I regret waiting so long to line the ceiling as it provided the biggest improvement of anything I did to the shed.

I also lined the hinged doors with insulation and 6mm ply to act a sound dampening. I have a narrow room at the rear of the shed and have located a two stage dust extractor and cyclone in that room. I can close the door to that area and turn on the extractor and can hardly hear it in the main shed area or outside.

If I do need more electrical work in the future it will be run in conduit on the surface of the wall or ceiling. I have been lucky as excellent tradesmen that I could trust, made this a simple project and provided a great result.

I hope this is some use to you. All the best

[slopey]

Initally I insulated and lined the ends of my shed with 19mm structeral ply with tongues. This was so I could get rid of the diagonal braces that the Titan people put in to add rigidity to the shed and to give me a place to hang stuff. My nephew is an engineer and calculated that the particular ply wood was far stronger than the ugly little braces that were always in the way.

I insulated and lined the side walls with 16mm flooring ply as it just had to be thick enough to allow items to be screwed to it and at the time it was a lot cheaper than the thicker stuff and that was a big consideration due to limited funds.

After I retired and had a few spare dollars I decided to have the ceiling insulated and lined with 17mm structural ply and at the same time had an electrician put in a sub box and a whole lot of lights,double power points and drop down power points as well as 15 and 20 amp outlets. A good sheet lifter handles the thick ply and it is actually easier to install, according to the carpenter, than thin stuff as it stays flat and the plastic tongues keep it lined up. The carpenters who did the work( I'm not up to it any longer) spent some time carfully filling the tophat sections with pine that had been bevelled on both sides to fit inside the section with the timber only about 1mm below the top hat metal. The timber was screwed in place with50mm roofing screws through the side of the tophat. This gave them a sizeable target to screw up into, something that was strong and also ensured an excellent finish on the job.

The ceiling provided an instant and marked drop in the summer temps inside the shed. Previously I worked outside as the shed was far too hot for anything but the shortest time. Now on very hot days I run the aircon for a few mins to drop the temp and turn it off. I regret waiting so long to line the ceiling as it provided the biggest improvement of anything I did to the shed.

I also lined the hinged doors with insulation and 6mm ply to act a sound dampening. I have a narrow room at the rear of the shed and have located a two stage dust extractor and cyclone in that room. I can close the door to that area and turn on the extractor and can hardly hear it in the main shed area or outside.

If I do need more electrical work in the future it will be run in conduit on the surface of the wall or ceiling. I have been lucky as excellent tradesmen that I could trust, made this a simple project and provided a great result.

I hope this is some use to you. All the best

Labrat:

Many thanks for the info.

Slopey.

[Arch Stanton]

Labrat

Got any pics?

[labrat]

Labrat

Got any pics?

P1000208.jpgP1000221.jpgP1000207.jpgP1000216.jpgP1000210.jpgP1000213.jpgP1000218.jpgP1000209.jpgP1000217.jpg


Things are a real mess as I am presently moving back in after putting down a couple of coats of 2-pack epoxy on the floor. These are a few pics that show how I used blast gates on both sides of the wall for the dust extraction and also show how the electrical work is partly run in the top or the walls and down the middle of the ceiling peak, the rest of the electrical is in conduit on the surface of the ply wood walls. A clever idea the electrician came up with is a second starter switch for the dust extractor in the main room on top of a 15 amp outlet, the orange flex coming out the bottom of the 15 amp outlet next to the dust extractor, goes to and from its primary switch and then penetrates through the wall to the small starter switch in the main room. The pics also show how the truss and the ceiling was finished off with 10 x 40mm fingerjointed pine to close gaps and make it harder for the bloody geckoes It is only a small space and I have a lot to do to sort through everything as I move back in and make room for what I am going to keep.