Pimping my Dovetail Plane

[derekcohen]

Several years ago I built a dovetail plane that shaped the male section of a sliding dovetail ...



Based on a derelict skew rebate plane, it wasn't much of a looker, but it got the job done.



The build pictorial is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...l%20Plane.html

About 18 months ago I bought a HNT Gordon dado plane, which is a superb performer and stunning looking plane. I was inspired to build another dovetail plane, this time one that planed the female/matching joint. I styled it to match the dado plane (on the right) ...



Used together, they make a great team ..


Build details are here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...gDovetail.html

Now, in a couple of weeks I shall join Terry Gordon (HNT Gordon Planes), Colen Clenton and Chris Vesper (tool makers extrordinaire) at the LN Perth Tool Event, where I will be demonstrating making joints with hand tools. I decided that one of the joints I shall make will be the sliding dovetail. In addition to saw-and-chisel, I plan to use the dovetail planes.

That's when I looked at the dovetail plane and thought that it could do with a face lift. Well, a face lift that improved its functionality as well.

Targeted was the depth stop and the fence. In the original versions they required a hex key to adjust the bolts. This is a limitation - much better to be able to do so without a special tool.

The stained and tired beech body was stained Jarrah to match the other planes, and a bit of bling was added with brass. This is how it turned out ...





Behind the depth stop is the nicker ...



The one-piece Jarrah fence has a brass face. This was very difficult to photograph and obtain an informative perspective ...





Here is the family shot ..



Regards from Perth

Derek

[IanW]

Not quite a HNT, Derek, but looks are secondary to function. It works, & that's the main thing.

Like you, I'm not sure about cutting D/T housings with a plane. It is probably the more efficient approach, but it would depend on what method you started with, & how practised you are, I think. I cut them with a router jig for 20-plus years (), but I've since seen the light, & discovered sawing & chiselling is a much quieter & more deliberate way to go about it. It actually doesn't take much longer, either.

Seeing your modified rebate dovetailer reminds me that I still haven't yet gotten round to making my own 'proper' version. My prototype doesn't have a fence, nicker or depth stop, so I have to hold it firmly against the guide, and work to the layout lines. Knifing the side lines has so far worked to stop tearing of the edges, but a nicker is probably de rigeur. Maybe it will swim to the top of the priority list when I have a bunch of sliding d/ts to cut, along with the router plane which is still no more than a few pieces put aside ...

Cheers,

[Godfrey]

Those are good looking planes Derek. I like the face lift

[derekcohen]

Like you, I'm not sure about cutting D/T housings with a plane. It is probably the more efficient approach, but it would depend on what method you started with, & how practised you are, I think. I cut them with a router jig for 20-plus years (), but I've since seen the light, & discovered sawing & chiselling is a much & quieter & more deliberate way to go about it. It actually doesn't take much longer, either.

Hi Ian

Using these planes is not as simple as one may expect. They do not remove all the effort or necessarily make it much easier, especially if one is used to using a saw and chisel. The planes need to have blades set up "just so" - much like any plough or rebate plane. With an incorrectly set up rebate plane or shoulder plane there is the danger of a sloping wall. Sometimes it is just easier to use a saw, chisel and router plane.

Regards from Perth

Derek