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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    St. Helens Tasmania
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    2,227

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    Can't wait to see what you've done!

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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Torquay
    Posts
    4,422

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    Hi All


    As per previous post , I have modified my locomotive wheels by adding a rim and filling the gap with filler. I have the sanded off the filler in line with the ID of the rim. This gives a nice smooth inside circular rim.

    I have made a frame for the boiler. As well as being a support for the boiler covering (PVC pipe) It is also a frame to allow me to secure main components of the locomotive (main idler gear shaft, water sight gauge) just to name a couple.

    As stated previously the PVC pipe was too large for my scale of the of the locomotive. (Needed to be 225mm dia not the 250mm of the pipe) I cut a section of the pipe out and then secured the ends (butted together and screwed) around the frame. Photos below.

    Keith
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  4. #63
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Thumbs up

    Keith, did you use any heat to help i9n bending the PVC?

    Plumbers often use their gas torch to heat and expand pipe ends as this save on joiners.

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Washington State, USA
    Posts
    455

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    Looking good!

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Torquay
    Posts
    4,422

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    Quote Originally Posted by artme View Post
    Keith, did you use any heat to help i9n bending the PVC?

    Plumbers often use their gas torch to heat and expand pipe ends as this save on joiners.
    Hi,

    No, when I cut the PVC it actually sprung in a bit. I then used 3 clamps around the circumference to squeeze it in to the frame whilst I secured it.


    Keith

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Torquay
    Posts
    4,422

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    Hi,

    Worked a bit on the boiler today. Made up access flange. This top cover of the flange will also eventually house the main pressure gauge, pressure relief valve and some boiler blowdown pipework. The flange and cover plate is made of 6mm MDF (luckily size perfect for scale). The flange body I turned out of pine. I did the bottom shaping to suit the radius of the boiler on a spindle grinder. The gasket is made out of 3mm MDF. Still need to sand off a bit of filler used where flange joins boiler.

    Keith
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  8. #67
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Torquay
    Posts
    4,422

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    As stated by me previously, I like to prepare some engineering drawings to assist with the making of the project. I have drawn up the boiler plates and then use these to provide a more structured approach when working on these items. Attached are some photos of my drawings and then part of the end product of using the drawings. The photo is the commencement of the rear boiler plate. Again I have used 3mm MDF as the gasket material.

    Keith
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  9. #68
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Washington State, USA
    Posts
    455

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    Making the drawings is a good thing. I'm just too impatient to do it and it causes me to waste wood to mistakes sometimes. I like doing drawing, guess I like cutt'n wood and making mistakes more!

    The boiler is looking nice. Do you paint it now?

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Torquay
    Posts
    4,422

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    Quote Originally Posted by PLD View Post
    Making the drawings is a good thing. I'm just too impatient to do it and it causes me to waste wood to mistakes sometimes. I like doing drawing, guess I like cutt'n wood and making mistakes more!

    The boiler is looking nice. Do you paint it now?
    Hi,

    Thanks for comments. Difficult to know when to paint - any suggestions. At this stage I have sorted to decide to continue making components. This will entail a lot of assembly and dismantling - but there is really no time limit on he build. Co-incidentally yesterday I did some trials with the paint. I am using a cast iron metal colour grey acrylic (satin, it won't e "shiny") - for the majority of the locomotive. (They weren't into any radical colour schemes in the early 1800's) I am trialling a method of dabbing the paint on - it is time consuming but it gives a type of gunmetal finish. What do people think about the bolts ? Should I paint them or leave as supplied (as shown in photos). The more difficult work approaches - making sure all the gears align when I make and fit the flywheel / drive gear shaft located at the rear boiler plate.

    Keith

  11. #70
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,381

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    I suggest you dont paint the bolts, they will give better definition to the overall look
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    I suggest you dont paint the bolts, they will give better definition to the overall look
    Thanks for that. I will go with that suggestion. Appreciate your input.

    Keith

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Washington State, USA
    Posts
    455

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    Yep. I agree on not painting the bolts. I asked my question wrong. I was just wondering if you paint the PVC, or leave it white. I didn't mean when you paint it if you do. But that is a good question and one I always struggle with, is when to put the finish on things. Too soon and it might get messed up in assembly or something, to late and it is hard to get to all the spots that need finish.

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Torquay
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    4,422

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    I have been working on the rear boiler plate. Made up the ash removal access cover with appropriate hinges and rotating clamps.

    Have drawn up the main flywheel and gear shaft. This shaft was square. Turned up the shaft bearing points and then filed the centres square to fit the shaft. The bearings were very basic by the look of it and the shaft just sat in bearing yokes. Think it would have been pretty noisy. Started making the bearing housing yokes - pretty time consuming. Got to go - Geelong is about to play Port Adelaide in the AFL.

    Keith
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  15. #74
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Torquay
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    4,422

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    Been looking after grandson for a few days, haven't been able to do a lot.

    Almost finished the pillow block bearings that support the square bearing / flywheel shaft. Still need to make up the bearing oilers that will fit on the top bearing caps. Made up the clutch plate. This slides on the square shaft.

    Been a bit worried about the gear alignment and mesh, particularly the drive gear and idler gear, but with the shaft made loos like the mesh and alignment will be nearly perfect (within mm's) - a huge sigh of relief.

    Keith
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  16. #75
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Torquay
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    4,422

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    Pretty happy how it went today. Assembled the shaft and fitted the drive gear and flywheel. Everything looks like it is going to fit !!!. Made up the bearing oilers and made aluminium caps for them. Still a fair bit to do on this shaft. Need to make and fit an eccentric cam that sits on the inside of the flywheel. This cam activates a push rod that acts as a piston that feeds oil to wheel bearings. I have made the crankshaft (fitted beside the drive gear) This crankshafts bearing must be in perfect synchronisation with the flywheel drive bearing on the opposite end of the shaft. Things are looking good in this regard - as stated -pretty happy. Everything apart again now.

    Keith
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