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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    BB - I noticed you asked this question in another thread, & got a different answer.

    The solid carbide bits Stewie pointed to would be the bees' knees if you are regularly drilling spring steel (keep meaning to get a couple for myself!), however, if you are in a hurry, & only plan to drill a few holes, a regular twist drill bit, plus plenty of lubricant will do it. You will have to re-sharpen the bit after just about every hole, however. A better option is to use one of the 'builders' drills' available in any of the hardware stores (can't remember what brand, but they have pictures on the packet of the drill sailing through wood, steel, & brick). They are carbide-tipped, & look like an under-fed masonary drill, but they will drill through spring steel easily. Their main drawback is that they are not very 'pointy', so you need to punch a decent indentation to stop wandering as you start them. Use a slow sped and don't use any cutting fluid - it wrecks them almost instantly!

    Cheers,
    Hi Ian. I have used a regular twist bit previous to this new type I am now using. This new type is far superior in 2 areas. 1st is the ease at which the bit goes through the saw plate. The 2nd is there is no need to center point the saw plate to guide the bit. After the saw bolt 3/16 stem holes have been drilled into the handle; followed by the 1/2" seats using the counterbore pilot bit, the saw plate assembly and the saw handle are then joined together in the final post position, and using a pedestal drill the 3/16 stem holes on the handle are then used to guide the 3/16 carbide bit through the saw plate. i have found it best practice to drill out the 1st hole into the saw plate, then fit the 1st saw bolt into the handle, before drilling out the 2nd saw plate hole. If the steps outlined are completed correctly, the saw plate holes will end up in the precise location they need to be, and will not require further adjustment with a round file. Since using this new technique I have not had cause to later refine the saw plate hole locations.

    I ended up purchasing 5 extra 3/16 carbide bits from Isaac. I also purchased extra's of all that's shown in the photo.



    Its my intention to sell each of these sets to those wishing to pursue backsaw making. Not sure if I should be mentioning it through this post but I will be asking for $75.00 for each set sold. This does not include the tfww saw bolt assemblies. That will cost extra. There is no charge for postage, and I end up making no profit from each set sold.

    Stewie;

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  3. #17
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    should end up being a nice little saw
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  4. #18
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    2 sets remaining. No more planned.

    Stewie;

  5. #19
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    Hi all. Just about finished work on this backsaw build. Just need to complete some test cuts and determine if fleam is required along the toothline.

    Here is where it was on the previous update.



    And now.





    A few things to note. The colour change in the handle wood after using the Van Dyke Crystals and the Garnet Shellac. I also applied a darkening solution to the brass saw bolts.

    I also increased depth of rounding to the inward curvature of both upper and lower grip horns. It result feels great within the hand. I also think it adds some extra charm to the overall look of the handle.

    Stewie;

  6. #20
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    10/10 go to the top of the class
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  7. #21
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    Yep, from the bloke who was asking the questions about back saws a couple of years ago, he's the one to go to for answers, these days!

    Now, Stewie, it's time you started etching & branding your saws, for that final touch....

    Cheers,
    IW

  8. #22
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    etching could be fun
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Yep, from the bloke who was asking the questions about back saws a couple of years ago, he's the one to go to for answers, these days!

    Now, Stewie, it's time you started etching & branding your saws, for that final touch....

    Cheers,

    Thanks Ian. Modesty prevents me from going down the path of properly etching and branding my saw work.

    Stewie;

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    10/10 go to the top of the class
    Thanks Nick.

  11. #25
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    Awesome work as usual Stewie, Cheers Richie

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richie Rich View Post
    Awesome work as usual Stewie, Cheers Richie
    Thanks Richie.

  13. #27
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    Stewie

    That saw and particularly the handle has come up beautifully. It looks to me from the pix that there is a ring of a different colour surrounding the saw nuts. Is that just my imagination, a trick of the camera or is there indeed a "corona" effect?

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Stewie

    That saw and particularly the handle has come up beautifully. It looks to me from the pix that there is a ring of a different colour surrounding the saw nuts. Is that just my imagination, a trick of the camera or is there indeed a "corona" effect?

    Regards
    Paul
    Hi Paul. Good to hear from you. I used Birchwood Casey Brass Black to darken the saw bolt faces. The effect shown is created by the way I rub the darkening back.

    Stewie;

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