Skid Steer Loader from Construction Series of Wood Magazine with some modifications!

[crowie]

I know some might use masking tape. If you are using the 'rub' method for gluing this should work well


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

Sorry Dave, But I'm none the wiser, so will have a chart on Friday at the Sydney Wood Show.... Cheers, crowie

[DaveTTC]

friday it is


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

[Hermit]

Now a question for all PLEASE!!!

How does one, how do you STOP GLUE SLIP, please.....[I'm just using a cross link good quality PVA glue]

I've just spent almost an hour, very frustrated with the cabin of the bobcat moving on the chassis even after I'd clamped in place with 4 clamps...
For some reason I then rechecked the fitment, watching & waiting for the glue to dry only to have to dismantle it and start again...
Here's hoping it's correct this time.....

Appreciate any and all suggestion from those with the "know-how" of proven methods, thank you.
Cheers, crowie

Pete, the first thing that will help is to use Titebond 'Original'. (Not TBII or TBIII) It has a much faster tack time then grips firmly and tends to slide around less.

Something else I do sometimes is to drive a few short brads half-way into one half of the joint, then cut off the heads leaving about 3mm of brad proud of the surface.
Then, when you bring the pieces together, the brads 'dig in' and prevent slippage. Just make sure you know exactly where they are if there's further machining to be done.

Also, rubbing the pieces together when you first bring them together will squeeze out the excess glue better, reducing slippage. (Can't do this when using brads though.)

Edit: Great minds think alike. (Below)

[A Duke]

Hi,
To stop pieces slipping out of place, knock a couple of brads in one surface and cut them off about 3mm at the diagonal with side cutters leaving sharp ends to dig into the other surface when you clamp them together.
Regards

[A Duke]

How,s that for simultaneous response?

[DaveTTC]

on the brad front sometimes I use sewing pins and push them in usung pliers and then cut as you guys have suggested

SHHHHHHH

dont tell the wife


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

[Keith_1]

Peter,

I saw a thing on Better Homes and Gardens - Yes - I do watch it, where they glued using white PVA glue and secured the joint so I wouldn't move by using masking tape over the join. Pulled the tape pretty tight over the join - it worked. I also glue up both parts to be secured, rub them together, wipe off excess, wait a couple of minutes to dry a bit, glue again and it doesn't tend to slip.

Keith

[crowie]

Hi,
To stop pieces slipping out of place, knock a couple of brads in one surface and cut them off about 3mm at the diagonal with side cutters leaving sharp ends to dig into the other surface when you clamp them together.
Regards

Pete, the first thing that will help is to use Titebond 'Original'. (Not TBII or TBIII) It has a much faster tack time then grips firmly and tends to slide around less.

Something else I do sometimes is to drive a few short brads half-way into one half of the joint, then cut off the heads leaving about 3mm of brad proud of the surface.
Then, when you bring the pieces together, the brads 'dig in' and prevent slippage. Just make sure you know exactly where they are if there's further machining to be done.

Also, rubbing the pieces together when you first bring them together will squeeze out the excess glue better, reducing slippage. (Can't do this when using brads though.)

Edit: Great minds think alike. (Below)

How,s that for simultaneous response?

Thank You "A Duke" and Thank You Steve....I've copied the brad method to file for further reference BUT will have to have a few practices first....
On the glue; I don't have any of the Titebond 'Original' BUT sounds like something for the Wood Show purchase list.....thank you...
[I've been using Fullers Maxibond Crosslinked PVA] Cheers, Peter

[crowie]

Peter,

I saw a thing on Better Homes and Gardens - Yes - I do watch it, where they glued using white PVA glue and secured the joint so I wouldn't move by using masking tape over the join. Pulled the tape pretty tight over the join - it worked. I also glue up both parts to be secured, rub them together, wipe off excess, wait a couple of minutes to dry a bit, glue again and it doesn't tend to slip.

Keith

on the brad front sometimes I use sewing pins and push them in usung pliers and then cut as you guys have suggested

SHHHHHHH

dont tell the wife


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

Thank you Keith and Thank you Dave... I've added your posts to the file too..... Cheers, crowie

[crowie]

Despite today's glue difficulties I have made some good progress....

I got the cabin centred & glued, plus the engine in place along with the mudguards [fenders].....

I did a mockup to get the M5 S/S Booker Rod lengths and attached is a complete mockup; which doesn't look too bad, if I do say myself...

I included the glue I've been using in the photos; thank you for the responses & assistance gents...
Cheers, crowie

[Hermit]

Looking good, mate.
It's great to see Handy getting plenty of exercise, too.

Regarding Titebond Original, (an aliphatic resin glue), it does still slip initially, especially under clamping pressures, but not as bad as PVA and it has a much faster tack time. I've been rub-jointing the segments for my turnings using TB Original for that reason. Last week, I ran out for a few days and used Titebond II instead, but it was much slower to begin to tack - 5 minutes vs about 10 seconds. Back to the original now, it's much better for that sort of thing.

For fiddly things that want to move around, sometimes it's better to use thin CA instead, too. You can clamp or hold the parts in place, then trickle the CA into the joint. It 'wicks' into the joint, then dries really quickly so you don't have to hold the parts together for long. Usually just a few seconds.

[Treecycle]

Now a question for all PLEASE!!!

How does one, how do you STOP GLUE SLIP, please.....[I'm just using a cross link good quality PVA glue]

I've just spent almost an hour, very frustrated with the cabin of the bobcat moving on the chassis even after I'd clamped in place with 4 clamps...
For some reason I then rechecked the fitment, watching & waiting for the glue to dry only to have to dismantle it and start again...
Here's hoping it's correct this time.....

Appreciate any and all suggestion from those with the "know-how" of proven methods, thank you.
Cheers, crowie

I find that if you put too much glue on the surfaces they move around easily like ice on a piece of glass. I normally apply small lines of glue with gaps between, and then as others have said, rub the two parts together and the glue can spread out into the gaps creating a very thin layer which will stick quickly. A thick layer of glue does not make for a stronger joint. Sometimes rather than trying to clamp something that wants to move around, I just put a weight of some sort on top of it. This takes away the forces that clamps can apply to try to push parts out of line.
You have made good progress today even with your frustrations.

[bj383ss]

Peter,

You've gotten several good tips on gluing. Here's is how I do it for toys and scale models. I use Titebond II. I apply thin layers and try to rub the parts if possible. My big secret...I don't use any clamps. I try to set the glue up so that just gravity holds it in place. I know you are suppose to clamp glue joints but I have had more actual wood parts break on toys and never the glue joint. Now when I build cabinets or structure support builds I clamp. But I ran into the same problem as you with movement. Plus sometimes with all the clamps you can't see if you have things straight. Now sometimes if the parts are sturdy enough I use my vise on the workbench to clamp but ever so slight as to apply a little bit of pressure. But in all honesty the Train and the Scania Truck, and almost all my toys I used no clamps.

Just my .02 cents.

Bret

[Repliconics]

I reckon all of the above is pretty good in the way of advice.
Where possible rubbing the two surfaces together before letting the glue set is spot on.
I'm a lot like Bret in that I rarely use clamps even on the larger parts I make.
A few pieces of masking tap usually does the trick.
But if you have two flat and clean surfaces I'd never under estimate good old super glue.
And just to be right outside the square.
If you've ever got some bodyfiller laying around, put a layer of it between two pieces of wood
and good luck getting it apart when it hardens.
I use it as glue quite a lot!

Cheers
Trev.

[crowie]

I find that if you put too much glue on the surfaces they move around easily like ice on a piece of glass. I normally apply small lines of glue with gaps between, and then as others have said, rub the two parts together and the glue can spread out into the gaps creating a very thin layer which will stick quickly. A thick layer of glue does not make for a stronger joint. Sometimes rather than trying to clamp something that wants to move around, I just put a weight of some sort on top of it. This takes away the forces that clamps can apply to try to push parts out of line.
You have made good progress today even with your frustrations.

Peter,

You've gotten several good tips on gluing. Here's is how I do it for toys and scale models. I use Titebond II. I apply thin layers and try to rub the parts if possible. My big secret...I don't use any clamps. I try to set the glue up so that just gravity holds it in place. I know you are suppose to clamp glue joints but I have had more actual wood parts break on toys and never the glue joint. Now when I build cabinets or structure support builds I clamp. But I ran into the same problem as you with movement. Plus sometimes with all the clamps you can't see if you have things straight. Now sometimes if the parts are sturdy enough I use my vise on the workbench to clamp but ever so slight as to apply a little bit of pressure. But in all honesty the Train and the Scania Truck, and almost all my toys I used no clamps.

Just my .02 cents.

Bret

I reckon all of the above is pretty good in the way of advice.
Where possible rubbing the two surfaces together before letting the glue set is spot on.
I'm a lot like Bret in that I rarely use clamps even on the larger parts I make.
A few pieces of masking tap usually does the trick.
But if you have two flat and clean surfaces I'd never under estimate good old super glue.
And just to be right outside the square.
If you've ever got some bodyfiller laying around, put a layer of it between two pieces of wood
and good luck getting it apart when it hardens.
I use it as glue quite a lot!

Cheers
Trev.

Thank you Dallas, Bret & Trev for the advice; it's been added to the file with the others that have given assistance...Cheers, Peter