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Thread: Shed lights
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25th September 2014, 03:50 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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My lights for all of my bench power tools (8) are no more than 45-60 cm from the workface.
Where does it say that I need to waste that clarity on the rest of the shop from 3m up?
Sure, I have lights in the room so I have no shadows.
As a carver, I need very angular light to see shadows from shapes,
no matter how shallow they may be. Those 18W LED are wonderful.
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25th September 2014 03:50 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th September 2014, 01:48 PM #17Senior Member
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I've been playing around with the 5630 strips a bit myself. No doubt, they throw out a huge amount of light.
The 15m I've got under my cabinets have lost 30% of their brightness after 4 months which is probably because they generate a huge amount of heat (for an LED that is). I suspect there's a fair bit of variability in the quality from different manufacturers and it's a bit of a minefield at the moment. I reckon the idea might be to install them in a clear plastic tube rather than sticking them on so when they die you can just pull them out and pull a new set in. I even went to the trouble of sticking them to aluminium sheet but they're still degrading pretty quickly. Another reason they may be dying is running them straight off a 12v power supply rather than a specialised driver. A real LED driver keeps a constant current across the junction where as things get a bit variable with a standard power supply.
The colour rendering however is pretty nasty. Unfortunately I've lost access to the gear to do the spectral plots but the warm white is really yellow and the cool white has a fair bit of purple.
No so bad if you just want light but I'd never do anything like staining, painting or anything that requires accurate colour representation under it. Forget about mixing them as well as I did. You just get a brighter light with the same huge peaks in the yellow and blue part of the spectrum. Adding to that you get different diffraction of those peaks when you're applying wet finishes and it looks really awful.
Incidentally I've been buying elcheapo $12 ikea office light fittings and modifying them to take the Lumitex barricade downlights ( http://lumitex.com.au/products/barricade2/ ). For about $80 you get an absolute no compromise LED task light on a movable arm. Colour rending is brilliant and they are focused and bright.
I hate standard fluro lights as well but still reckon they're the best we've got at the moment. Incidentally, the new electronic ballasts are supposed to get rid of the stroboscopic effect you used to get. Fluro's have actually come a very long way in the last 5 years but because they last for so long people base their opinions on what was available 20 years ago rather than what's around now. I never thought I'd ever use fluros in a house but I'm about to put 40 fluro fittings in the main part of my house as part of my current renovation. All individually addressable and dimmable by the lighting control system. Reasonable price, even light output, nice colour rendering and heaps of control.
Toys toys toys...
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27th September 2014, 06:42 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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Interesting Dalejw. Regarding the 5630 LEDS, I think if you can find geuine samsung units then you would be good. I can confirm the ones I have are not genuine samsung, and I am not sure where you would find them. The Masters GU10 LED replacements do use genuine samsung chips. The difference being samsung chip has 4 leads, where as the ripoffs only have 2.
I'll be interested to see how the samsung ones last. I am a huge fan of the LED striplights, so I will be disappointed if they fail in 4 months.
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28th September 2014, 10:21 AM #19Senior Member
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And herein lies the problem, it's very hard to know what you're going to get with LED's at the moment. Manufacturers seem to be treating the LED chips like any other electronic component and shopping around for whatever they can get. I recently pulled apart a $1500 fitting that had banks of chips that were individually lensed and found 3 distinct types of chips randomly scattered through each element.
You can get really good quality strip light but the last lot we had samples of was about $180 for a 5M roll. Couple that with a decent driver @ about $70 and things are starting to get a bit pricey.
I'd say you'll be right in your shed as the intensity fall off from these sort of things tends to be non linear in that it's big at the start and slows down after that. They're cheap enough that you can replace them provided you haven't got too "permanent" with the mounting.
I should also clarify that when I say "heat" in terms of LED's I'm not talking about "ouch that's hot" like say an incandescent globe. Hot for an LED is about 50 degrees at whatever is heat sinking it. If it feels fairly warm there's a fair chance it's too hot at the junction. The big industrial LED's it's difficult to tell the temperature of the heat sink from ambient without measuring it. At about 120deg at the junction, most LED's are toast.
It's probably worth remembering that my comments come from a fairly different position than most people using this stuff. It's a bit of a different process when you're spending $10 million dollars of taxpayers money and trying to match colour temps with other lighting to ensure optimum CCTV performance than it is chucking a few lights up in the shed.
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29th September 2014, 07:55 PM #20
Glenn, FWIW, Aldi have LED tubes on this coming Saturday:
https://www.aldi.com.au/en/special-b...14-09-29_17-58
There's other LED stuff as well including the globes that I am currently using.
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29th September 2014, 10:02 PM #21
Thanks FF !
Glenn Visca
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30th September 2014, 04:56 PM #22GOLD MEMBER
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The best thing I ever did when wiring for lights was to run them off three pin unswitched roses. It means that if the lights need to be changed or added to there is no need to hard wire the additions. I have just had two industrial units wired for lights and I noticed that the electrician did the same thing without being asked.
CHRIS
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