hollowing technique help!!!!!!

[tea lady]

I agree with all that has been said thus far but would add that the piece of wood that split in two may have done so, even in expert hands. Check the knot there.

Yes. The knot does make it a little tricky to decide which way the grain is going. And also adds some extra hard end grain wood to the mix. Maybe dig out a nice boring straight grained bit to practice on. And maybe slightly softer than red gum?

[Mobyturns]

WW,
We need to go right back to basics on this one.

1. The "bowl" you are attempting to turn is not a "bowl", in the traditional sense. Photos 3 and 4 clearly show a split "along the grain" of the blank & not "across the grain." The nature of the tear out in photo 4 is also consistent with "end grain hollowing." Chunks have been torn from the end grain all the way around the blank. Normally for a blank in "bowl orientation" the tear out would be more pronounced on only two "sides" of the blank where there is end grain. This blank orientation & turning is more like what turners do when making a goblet or a lidded box. The blank you have is in what we call "spindle orientation" - the grain in the timber is running parallel to the axis of the lathe when the blank is mounted in the chuck. Traditionally bowl blanks have the grain running "across the blank". If you follow the recommended sequence of cuts (in Dales book or other books) using a "bowl gouge" to make a "bowl" you will be cutting "uphill" into the end grain.

2. As others have pointed out none of the gouges are "bowl gouges". Tools 1,2 & 3 (from left) are "spindle gouges" - not well suited to bowl making.

3. Tool # 4 is a "spindle roughing gouge" & should only be used on spindle blanks (table legs etc). It should not ever be used on bowl turning projects. So none of the gouges are really suitable for that project.

4. the three jaw chuck you are using & given the age of the lathe & tools is most likely a metal machinists 3-jaw chuck, hopefully a scroll chuck, and most likely should be abandoned for wood turning bowl projects. A photo of how you had the bowl mounted on the lathe would be most helpful to give you more guidance.

Bowl blanks generally have the grain in the blank running across the axis of the lathe and we use a bowl gouge to turn them. A bowl gouge is more robust & has a deeper flute than a spindle gouge.

The turning of your particular blank can be done with the tools you have, BUT not by an inexperienced turner. So you have set yourself a rather difficult task first up and a rather challenging one for most turners with a bit of experience.

Before you get into any more strife please look up Glenn Lucas's videos on bowl turning on YouYube. His videos will give you a glimpse of bowl turning techniques. Glen is an exceptional bowl turner. His DVD's are well prepared and he covers all the steps for beginners.

Try to get hold of a book by Keith Rowley "Woodturning - A Foundation Course." Keith's book will step you through the basics, timber & grain orientation; terminology; tools, their use & selection; sharpening; preparing & mounting blanks: sequence of cuts etc; but most importantly safety. His "laws of woodturning" are a very good basis for all woodturners.

I would also strongly recommend getting some tuition from a club or a well experienced teacher like Rob McKee.

[Beedeejay]

Hi there,
there has been some good advice given on here and the main one I agree with the most, is get someone to show you in person, videos are good but real life is better,
not sure where in Brissy you are but I have heard that green slopes and redcliff both have good woodturning facilities at their clubs (I'm sure there are others as well) or you can make the voyage down the M1 to the goldy and check out our club,
pm me if that is an option for you,

cheers Ben

[dai sensei]

WW,
We need to go right back to basics on this one.

1. The "bowl" you are attempting to turn is not a "bowl", in the traditional sense. Photos 3 and 4 clearly show a split "along the grain" of the blank & not "across the grain." The nature of the tear out in photo 4 is also consistent with "end grain hollowing." Chunks have been torn from the end grain all the way around the blank. Normally for a blank in "bowl orientation" the tear out would be more pronounced on only two "sides" of the blank where there is end grain. This blank orientation & turning is more like what turners do when making a goblet or a lidded box. The blank you have is in what we call "spindle orientation" - the grain in the timber is running parallel to the axis of the lathe when the blank is mounted in the chuck. Traditionally bowl blanks have the grain running "across the blank". If you follow the recommended sequence of cuts (in Dales book or other books) using a "bowl gouge" to make a "bowl" you will be cutting "uphill" into the end grain.

2. As others have pointed out none of the gouges are "bowl gouges". Tools 1,2 & 3 (from left) are "spindle gouges" - not well suited to bowl making.

3. Tool # 4 is a "spindle roughing gouge" & should only be used on spindle blanks (table legs etc). It should not ever be used on bowl turning projects. So none of the gouges are really suitable for that project.

4. the three jaw chuck you are using & given the age of the lathe & tools is most likely a metal machinists 3-jaw chuck, hopefully a scroll chuck, and most likely should be abandoned for wood turning bowl projects. A photo of how you had the bowl mounted on the lathe would be most helpful to give you more guidance.

Bowl blanks generally have the grain in the blank running across the axis of the lathe and we use a bowl gouge to turn them. A bowl gouge is more robust & has a deeper flute than a spindle gouge.

The turning of your particular blank can be done with the tools you have, BUT not by an inexperienced turner. So you have set yourself a rather difficult task first up and a rather challenging one for most turners with a bit of experience.

Before you get into any more strife please look up Glenn Lucas's videos on bowl turning on YouYube. His videos will give you a glimpse of bowl turning techniques. Glen is an exceptional bowl turner. His DVD's are well prepared and he covers all the steps for beginners.

Try to get hold of a book by Keith Rowley "Woodturning - A Foundation Course." Keith's book will step you through the basics, timber & grain orientation; terminology; tools, their use & selection; sharpening; preparing & mounting blanks: sequence of cuts etc; but most importantly safety. His "laws of woodturning" are a very good basis for all woodturners.

I would also strongly recommend getting some tuition from a club or a well experienced teacher like Rob McKee.

There are a couple of really good clubs around SEQ and you should join one

[NeilS]

I'm sorry but I don't know what bevel angle is and what going under the lip means also…… As I said I'm self taught and don't know bugger all, sorry.

No apologies needed, there isn't one member of this forum who knew a jot more at the beginning of their woodturning.

The biggest problem with being self taught is that you have a very ignorant teacher.

Not knowing what you don't know also puts your physical well being at risk.

As others have suggested, take the shortcut to your woodturning success by learning from an experienced woodturner; if available, hands-on lessons are best, next best are videos, and lastly books/mags provide a valuable reference. A mix of all three is ideal.

[ian thorn]

No. None of them look like bowl gouges, but you should still be able to do that shallow bowl with them.

Hmm. Not quite the reason why you shouldn't use them on a bowl. Spindle roughing gouges are usually sharpened straight across and is it a little easy for the wing to catch.

Anyway, joining a club would be a quick way to get sorted.

Carbon chisels are ok. The edge just doesn't last as long as HSS, but its only like 10 % less so will do untill you really need some new tools.

The pieces look like they broke just near te end of the process. Which is always the way. When the wood is thin it will flex as it is spinning. So when you are just taking the last cut the bowl will hit the chisel.

The reason I said No4 should not be used on a bowl is it is fitted into the handle with a tang that can snap with a catch a bowl gouge is made from a bar of steel not pressed from flat steel

[NeilS]

The reason I said No4 should not be used on a bowl is it is fitted into the handle with a tang that can snap with a catch a bowl gouge is made from a bar of steel not pressed from flat steel

As Mobyturns has pointed out....

"Tool # 4 is a "spindle roughing gouge" & should only be used on spindle blanks (table legs etc). It should not ever be used on bowl turning projects."

And, as Ian explains, the reason for this is that most spindle roughing gouges are constructed with a tang that is vulnerable to snapping/bending with the potential for catastrophic consequences. No competent teacher will advise you to use it on bowls. Not even the most experienced bowl turner would go near the insides of a bowl with a spindle roughing gouge. Besides the danger of doing so, they have a much tool, the bowl gouge, which is designed for that task and does a much better job of it every which way.

[wilkeswood]

Thanks so much guys, I have joined the redcliffe wood workers club and have found a guru who is happy as larry to pass on the skills to a bloke such as myself…
Once again, Thankyou very much for your advice.

[Christos]

Even thou we are a great distance from you we still want to see what you create as your journey into wood turning continues.