hollowing technique help!!!!!!

[wilkeswood]

Hi guys,
I'm new to turning and I only have what would be called basic chisels, Roughing gouge, Skew, Round nose, a couple bowl gouges. I have been teaching my self how to make hollow forms, bowls, vases etc. But when Im' hollowing out the interior of the deeper items my chisels keep catching and taking bit chunks out and I even shattered a bowl in half yesterday trying to hollow it. I have an old dale l nish book that was printed in 1980 but I think the technique is still relevant. Therefore I'm trying to implement these techniques but i keep chunking up and now it's beginning to make me nervous every time I start hollowing out which is not what I want.

[hughie]

Not having seen the book I can only guess you may need to vary your bevel angle. Also if your going under the lip conventional gouges wont do it and its a guaranteed catch.

Better still show us a couple pics of what your trying to do along with your tools, all good we have all been down this path at one time or another

[Christos]

You did not mention scrapers as part of your tools?

Personally I have not done any deep hollow forms and only one piece( a potpourri) that would have been better if I took out more from under the lip. The cuts to the outer walls were done via a scrapper and the tool was coming from the other side of the lathe.

[Rod Gilbert]

+1 What Hughie said.
Regards Rod.

[Woodturnerjosh]

I also agree with what Hughie said but maybe you cold put up some photos of you're gouges? and maybe a photo of the forms you're having trouble with?
Regards

Josh

[wilkeswood]

Okay, here are the tools, Lathe, and the latest broken bowl. It was held by a three jaw chuck that came with the Lathe (which I think is part of the problem) although I mostly hold them with a screwed faceplate and that definitely holds stronger. I basically get one of the very left tools of the first pic and work from out side in. I have tried to give all of the tools a crack and have found the round nose one to be less likely to catch but it doesn't take bugger all wood, just fine dust basically. I am also aware that my tools aren't crazy sharp but I do have a diamond wheel a couple of steps away and do keep them as sharp as I can and just kept the blade shapes as I got them.

I appreciate all the help guys I am humbled by how many of you are nice enough to take the time out to help out a clueless 30 year old.

IMG_0879.jpgIMG_0881.jpgIMG_0883.jpgIMG_0888.jpg

[wilkeswood]

Not having seen the book I can only guess you may need to vary your bevel angle. Also if your going under the lip conventional gouges wont do it and its a guaranteed catch.

Better still show us a couple pics of what your trying to do along with your tools, all good we have all been down this path at one time or another

I'm sorry but I don't know what bevel angle is and what going under the lip means also…… As I said I'm self taught and don't know bugger all, sorry.

[wood hacker]

Hi Wilkeswood

Where abouts in Brisbane are you situated? I don't claim to be an expert but if you need some help / advice I'm happy to help out. Drop me a PM if you're interested.

cheers
WH

[smiife]

Okay, here are tgls,Lathe,
nd the latest broken bowl. It was held by a three jaw chuck that came with the Lathe (which I think is part of the problem) although I mostly hold them with a screwed faceplate and that definitely holds stronger. I basically get one of the very left tools of the first pic and work from out side in. I have tried to give all of the tools a crack and have found the round nose one to be less likely to catch but it doesn't take bugger all wood, just fine dust basically. I am also aware that my tools aren't crazy sharp but I do have a diamond wheel a couple of steps away and do keep them as sharp as I can and just kept the blade shapes as I got them.

I appreciate all the help guys I am humbled by how many of you are nice enough to take the time out to help out a clueless 30 year old.

IMG_0879.jpgIMG_0881.jpgIMG_0883.jpgIMG_0888.jpg

Hi wilkeswood,
Use your screw chuck first to hold the blank
and shape the bottom of the bowl and put on
a tenon/foot to fit your jaws on the chuck and then
turn the whole thing around and hollow out the Inside
I would suggest using chisel no. 3 and no.5 only!!!!!!
and get a decent sharpening system , these chisels
have to be super sharp,,,, as you work your way in to
the bowl move your tool rest in as you go, you should
be able to do it with the scraper to the depth you want
hope this helps, I am sure others will help , this is just
the way I would do it with the tools you have, gently
gently approach will also help......good luck!!

[hughie]

Okay, here are the tools, Lathe, and the latest broken bowl. It was held by a three jaw chuck that came with the Lathe (which I think is part of the problem) although I mostly hold them with a screwed faceplate and that definitely holds stronger. I basically get one of the very left tools of the first pic and work from out side in. I have tried to give all of the tools a crack and have found the round nose one to be less likely to catch but it doesn't take bugger all wood, just fine dust basically. I am also aware that my tools aren't crazy sharp but I do have a diamond wheel a couple of steps away and do keep them as sharp as I can and just kept the blade shapes as I got them.

I appreciate all the help guys I am humbled by how many of you are nice enough to take the time out to help out a clueless 30 year old.

IMG_0879.jpgIMG_0881.jpgIMG_0883.jpgIMG_0888.jpg

Well looking at your tools I suspect you dont have a sharpening jig and they are mostly old and so probably not HSS. Its a bit hard to determine the the type of grind you have there, but what I can see is not encouraging

Looking at the red bowl and all the rough area, this is called tear out and I suspect your tools aren't as sharp as they could be, also to get on top of this sort thing you need light cuts from a razor sharp tool.

I think what you need is to take up Wood whackers offer and get you tools sorted out first. If the tools are blunt, wrong angles and not HSS your timber will go on eating up the edge and any turning will be hard work and most likely keep going the same way .

[Evanism]

I love turning bowls. They will punish you if you aren't focused, the technique is dodgy or tools aren't very sharp.

If you have ADHD, you gotta take your pills before hand! One stray thought/moment while doing the inside and BAM!!!! Colossal catch - guaranteed.

There are a few good videos on youtube, but seriously, if someone makes an offer to visit or to go over, take it up. A few short lessons makes a significant difference.

Looks like a big catch you had there. Those big breaks have a habit of flying directly at your head - and it WILL take a chunk out of you. Obtain a high impact face shield. They are ~$35.

[Woodturnerjosh]

I could be mistaken (and am happy to be corrected) but none of your gouges look like bowl gouges to me so may not be suitable for the job.
I've always found woodturners to be a friendly breed so if you can take someone up on their offer to help it might be worth it.
Cheers
Josh

[ian thorn]

Join a club the help you will get is more than the cost and could be cheaper that the doctor's bill. There is nothing wrong with older type steel tools they just don't hold an edge as long as the newer metal's. As said b a good shield and take up the kind offer of help if you can.

And don't use chisel No 4 on bowl it is a spindle gouge the tang may snap if you get a catch.

[tea lady]

I could be mistaken (and am happy to be corrected) but none of your gouges look like bowl gouges to me so may not be suitable for the job.
I've always found woodturners to be a friendly breed so if you can take someone up on their offer to help it might be worth it.
Cheers
Josh

No. None of them look like bowl gouges, but you should still be able to do that shallow bowl with them.

Join a club the help you will get is more than the cost and could be cheaper that the doctor's bill. There is nothing wrong with older type steel tools they just don't hold an edge as long as the newer metal's. As said b a good shield and take up the kind offer of help if you can.

And don't use chisel No 4 on bowl it is a spindle gouge the tang may snap if you get a catch.

Hmm. Not quite the reason why you shouldn't use them on a bowl. Spindle roughing gouges are usually sharpened straight across and is it a little easy for the wing to catch.

Anyway, joining a club would be a quick way to get sorted.

Carbon chisels are ok. The edge just doesn't last as long as HSS, but its only like 10 % less so will do untill you really need some new tools.

The pieces look like they broke just near te end of the process. Which is always the way. When the wood is thin it will flex as it is spinning. So when you are just taking the last cut the bowl will hit the chisel.

[jefferson]

I agree with all that has been said thus far but would add that the piece of wood that split in two may have done so, even in expert hands. Check the knot there. Danger, danger. A shame you are not closer to Victoria, that's where a lot of the best teachers reside. But I am sure you will find good advice up your way. Vicmarcs at almost every club.