hiking pole

[cobalt32]

started and finished a hiking pole .based on the mallard hen ,carved from lime wood
A relaxing pastime .Mounted from a hazel shank harveted about 18mnths ago so well seasoned.
mallardwhistling duck 003.jpgmallardwhistling duck 006.JPGmallard 007.JPGmallard 011.JPGmallard 022.JPGmallard 024.JPGmallard 029.JPGmallrd 007.JPG

[Whittling]

Well done. This design works well as the handle of a cane too. I have similar pattern that I use regularly on a Jarrah shaft with jarrah and huon pine spacers. Sells well.

[Mike the knife]

Yes very nicely observed, so I take it from the photos that you will not use a ferrule ?
I note that you have drilled it for a steel rod, when attaching a separate stick top, traditionally the old stick makers used to carve the top of the stick shaft leaving it looking like as if wooden dowel had been put in & drill only the head for fixing. This gets rid of the awkward long deep drilling of the shaft PLUS it makes a more balanced stick in use . In Northumberland where stick making is traditional & ancient , competition judges always check the balance & feel of a stick in use.
However traditionally they didn't have epoxy glue did they !

[cobalt32]

Well done. This design works well as the handle of a cane too. I have similar pattern that I use regularly on a Jarrah shaft with jarrah and huon pine spacers. Sells well.

most wild fowl heads seem to be popular,that and dogs heads,but you still cant beat a rams horn market stick

[cobalt32]

Yes very nicely observed, so I take it from the photos that you will not use a ferrule ?
I note that you have drilled it for a steel rod, when attaching a separate stick top, traditionally the old stick makers used to carve the top of the stick shaft leaving it looking like as if wooden dowel had been put in & drill only the head for fixing. This gets rid of the awkward long deep drilling of the shaft PLUS it makes a more balanced stick in use . In Northumberland where stick making is traditional & ancient , competition judges always check the balance & feel of a stick in use.
However traditionally they didn't have epoxy glue did they !

No you cant get fixtures for a topper cut at 45 degree angle.I usually fit a nickel silver collar onto them.And when asked i use a interchangable fitment so any head will fit onto the shank.
All the poles have a ferrule fitted usually heavy duty brass ones but also supply a rubber one to fit over it ,some people preffer the rubber for walking.some times fit a alpine spike but very rare to be asked for one but you can get attachments for them for road walking

[cava]

This thread has spurred me onto to trying to make a walking stick.

Now it must be stated, that I know nothing about how to make them apart from what I have read here in the last few days.

So off I went to the wood pile and selected two (2) 'sticks' of pear prunings that I cut three (3) or so months ago. Both green. One tapers from circa 40 mm to 25 mm and the other from circa 30 mm to 20 mm.

I realise that I have to wait for them to dry, but the question is:

a) How long should I wait (or can I start playing with them now) ?
b) Do I leave the bark on to facilitate a slower seasoning, or take it off now whilst it is green?
c) Does fruit wood make a good walking stick, or should I look at other native woods? Eucalyptus or acacia are the most common for me where I am.
d) Should I seal the ends whilst they are drying?
e) What thickness is preferable, for future stick harvesting?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

[Mike the knife]

This thread has spurred me onto to trying to make a walking stick.

Now it must be stated, that I know nothing about how to make them apart from what I have read here in the last few days.

So off I went to the wood pile and selected two (2) 'sticks' of pear prunings that I cut three (3) or so months ago. Both green. One tapers from circa 40 mm to 25 mm and the other from circa 30 mm to 20 mm.

I realise that I have to wait for them to dry, but the question is:

a) How long should I wait (or can I start playing with them now) ?
b) Do I leave the bark on to facilitate a slower seasoning, or take it off now whilst it is green?
c) Does fruit wood make a good walking stick, or should I look at other native woods? Eucalyptus or acacia are the most common for me where I am.
d) Should I seal the ends whilst they are drying?
e) What thickness is preferable, for future stick harvesting?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

a) No be patient! 1 year per inch of timber is the rule of thumb ( NO you can't speed it up!)
b) Yes leave it on for drying, you can with some species leave the bark on the finished stick , giving a natural look.
c) Yes, fruit wood is great for carving but is prone to rot so it would benefit from a rubber tip. Sorry ,I don't know those woods I'm afraid.
d)Yes, drip some wax of a lit candle onto the end grain, or plaster it with old gloss paint. Some people cut 4" overlong & just let that bit split in the drying.
e) Well um ? exactly stick diameter 3/4" to 1&1/4" is usual, but do cut the length over long to be adjusted after drying.

After drying a stick can be straightened to as if it were of a lathe, by heating with a hot air gun & bending it this way & that over our knee.
You should at the time of harvesting consider making the stick & handle as one (integral). As well as it making a more organic natural looking stick & saving you he work of drilling & putting the handle on (slightly tricky) this type of stick is much more highly thought of by collectors & it is immediately apparent that I is not a resin head.
I've sketched out how to go about gathering the stick blanks for this method.
Cheers Mike

[cobalt32]

This thread has spurred me onto to trying to make a walking stick.

Now it must be stated, that I know nothing about how to make them apart from what I have read here in the last few days.

So off I went to the wood pile and selected two (2) 'sticks' of pear prunings that I cut three (3) or so months ago. Both green. One tapers from circa 40 mm to 25 mm and the other from circa 30 mm to 20 mm.

I realise that I have to wait for them to dry, but the question is:

a) How long should I wait (or can I start playing with them now) ?
b) Do I leave the bark on to facilitate a slower seasoning, or take it off now whilst it is green?
c) Does fruit wood make a good walking stick, or should I look at other native woods? Eucalyptus or acacia are the most common for me where I am.
d) Should I seal the ends whilst they are drying?
e) What thickness is preferable, for future stick harvesting?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

yes 1" will season them and leave the bark on, if you take the bark of it probably will cause the wood to split I never remove the bark on my shanks ,i just give them a few coats of danish oil.,but i only use hazel .chestnut ash and holly..hazel has a wide range of colours and like the other wood types i use the bark wont come of readily
Any wood will do for it some are better than others, just make sure you put a ferule on the bottom .it keeps the shank in good order.
Sealing the ends depends on what typ of wood your useing it would be a good idea seal it with anything varnish paint bees wax dosnt matter.I never seal the shanks i harvest.I have about 100 shanks in the garage seasoning since last feb. none of them have split
Use the thickness you want on average it abot 1".this thickness will allow you to get a larger variety of fixtures like nickel silver collars or buffalo horn .
Ther is no hard and fast rule with stickmaking just a few guidlines.I just use lime wood toppers on the ones i make its easy to carve and very relaxing pastime.Just dont make the topper to intricate remember it has to stand up to being used and abused, after all its not a ornament
but if you want any hep with books etc just email me
good luck

[cobalt32]

i always have at lest 3 projects on the go with the carving.
I use some books to reach me to carve by Shawn Cipa and would recomend his books .There very step by step photos in them and there easy to midify to suit your own ends.
This is the griffin i have been working on when i get time .not sure yet how to finish it with scales or feathers or what type of eye to use.yet
Attachment 324164Attachment 324165Attachment 324166

[cava]

Thanks Guys.

Are the books by Andrew Jones / Clive George worthwhile getting for a beginner, or should I look at other authors?

[cobalt32]

Thanks Guys.

Are the books by Andrew Jones / Clive George worthwhile getting for a beginner, or should I look at other authors?

yes there good it will deal with all you want to know.It does deal with rams horn also but has some patterns in it but it will tell you how to straighten shanks with steam and a heat gun i think
Also if you have a rotary tool you may be interested in " carving animal canes & walking sticks with powertheres 14 patterns in it , its by frank russel from schiffer books for carvers ,Its very american in its approach but does give some useful info on carving fur feathers and eyes etc

[cobalt32]

carving a griffin to compliment the dragons head .Bas on a book by Shawn Cipa called"carving fantasy & legend figures in wood " with 10 different projects in it
here is wher i am at ? yet to be mounted need a buffalo gorn collar and to be cut at a 45degree angle for mounting .Slightly more texturind to do on the nech and the head of it yet
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[cobalt32]

Remodeled the griffins eyes to make it look more like a preditor ,facing forward rather than mounted on the side ,also carved the ears slightly deeper and in the process of fitting a water buffalo horn collar.
The horn just needs modelling to ensure the transition from the topper to the shank


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