Any ideas with this table construction?

[Cam.H]

Hi Guys,

I've designed the table in the attached image. The white legs/frame is powdercoated steel.

My challenge is trying to get the top strip of steel flush with the table top - so it's recessed in.

I'm wanting to make the frame and timber components separately so they can be moved and assembled easily so building the frame around the timber is not an option.

The only way I can see is to have the top steel piece removable so it bolts to the legs, unless there's any clever ideas out there?

Thanks as always!

Screen Shot 2014-08-22 at 6.25.55 pm.jpg

[Cam.H]

Think I might have solved it.. Or at least have a nicer option.

Have the bottom piece removable so the top can be recessed in!

[malb]

Is the steel bar or tube, what size? I am asking because there are lots of ways to cut steel with a simple mitre, but not too many for cutting a compound mitre. If bar (say 100x8) you might get away with simple mitres and lots of weld to gap fill, followed by lots of grinding to fair and smooth, but for tube you would definitely need to go to a compound mitre system to splay and rake the legs.

I assume the leg frames are inset into the sides of the top so they finish flush to the sides, and that the legs are splayed as well as raked if you are thinking of making the bottom bar removable. However, if you have enough splay, (say 30mm each side) then you may be able to set it up so that there is enough clearance to be able to slide the leg frame over the top from the end in a raised position (so top surface of leg base is just below the bottom of the table top), align the legs with the recesses in the top, and lower the leg frame to the working position and fasten.

An issue with a removable base to the leg frame is the size of the metal section, because you need to use 2 bolts probably 8-10mm diameter to secure the base section into the uprights, and leave plenty of metal around them.

[Ticky]

Screen Shot 2014-08-22 at 6.25.55 pm.jpg

It appears that the tops of the legs are cut on the angle of the splay, say 15 degrees. It also appears that metal leg frames are made from Flat bar. As the tops of the legs are cut on the angle, the top rail sits flat, so routing a trench across the top of the table the same width & depth as the top rail will sit it in flush.

To secure the top to the legs, a couple of countersunk holes in the top rail & countersunk bolts should do the trick. I would make the holes in the tabletop bigger to allow for the inevitable movement, and use a large flat washer & nut underneath.

I would suggest Allen Head Bolts, for looks, and you could get the bolts & nuts either powder coated at the same time, or use Brass, Chrome, Black or what ever effect you want. Maybe take them to a Gunsmith & get them Blued for something a bit different.


Steve

[Handyjack]

If you want the top of the frame flush with the top of the table, how about a bar underneath the table top, you could then use a couple of wedges to attach the frame to the table and make it flush on the top.

Hope that makes sense.

[Christos]

If you want the top of the frame flush with the top of the table, how about a bar underneath the table top, you could then use a couple of wedges to attach the frame to the table and make it flush on the top....

I am tending to think on the same line as this idea.

[Cam.H]

Hi Guys,

Thanks a lot for all the replies!

It'll be out of flat bar ideally.

There's a bar underneath too, which is what I was suggesting I make removable so I can recess the top bar into the top.

Waiting for the steel bloke to get back to me with his input, will keep you posted how it progresses.

Cheers again!

[fletty]

If I was making it, I would do something similar to Ticky's idea but I would weld a short lengths of threaded rod under the top strap to align with holes in the table top and then a loose length of strap fits under the table top with the threaded rods passing through holes and the whole thing held together with nuts onto the threaded rod. That way the table top would seem to hang from the recessed top straps?

fletty

[Cam.H]

I like the idea of removing the support bar on the underside and just using bolts through the top bar through the timber.

However, it's 3m long, so I figured it would need some additional support on the underside to help with sag? And over time with bolts loosening with shrinkage, general use and abuse it might need some more rigidity so it's not relying on the integrity of the timber to stay sturdy.

~40mm spotted gum boards, spanning ~2m between the legs. What do you think?

[Ticky]

40mm spotted gum should take a bit of bending, but 2m is a fairly long span.

There are a couple of things that could help,

1. fix a couple of extra boards on edge length ways underneath

2. Make the tabletop out of boards glued together on edge instead of on the flat.

3. Make it a bit thicker, say 50mm

4. Make the top out of say pine, as a torsion Box, & then cover it with spotted gum.

5. Change the design of the legs to a "W" shape & support the center.

lots of options available to you.

Make sure you leave some room around those bolt holes in the timber so the timber can move & I think it's unlikely that your bolts will ever come loose. If you don't, your top will Cup & Crack over time.

Steve

[Cam.H]

Thanks Steve/ Ticky,

I think I will stick with the original plan of using the steel frame to support it underneath.

I suspect the steel fabricators will have a solution for the design of this, I have my own too - what would you suggest?

Cam.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I agree with the others that the span will be a problem...

...however, as you have some tame metal fabricators to hand you can simply add metal rails underneath for extra support.

Personally, I'd weld them to the two removable pieces underneath, so they form a long, skinny, tic-tac-toe box shape. The two flats for holding the table in place one direction, and two longer support rails the other.

IMHO, small box section would be better for the supports and should be almost invisible unless kneeling down.

[Ticky]

I Agree with Skew

Steve