Advice on which diamond whetstones to buy

[Gadge]

Hi All,

I have a couple of diamond whetstones which I've had for many years and need to buy new ones. Would appreciate some help in choosing which to buy.
The two diamonds are a very course one I bought about 18 years ago and a DMT with blue plastic body. I use the course one for hogging out chips and establishing new bevels, and the DMT for a medium grit stone. Both are used for flattening my naturals, which is what I use after the diamonds.
As the DMT has worn down and become finer, I find I can use it to refine the edge and then go straight to a fine natural and finish with only those two stones.
OK, so what I need is 2 or 3 diamond stones to firstly flatten my naturals, secondly quickly remove steel, and thirdly go as fine as possible before moving to naturals. At Carbatec they sell diamond stones meant to flatten waterstones but they seem too course to me. I usually use a diamond as a nagura before starting and then again for a few passes after finishing to keep the stone flat. This way the diamond does not need to be course.
This is getting a bit wordy so I'll leave it at that. Hope someone can help.

Regards,
Gadge

[Pam]

I keep a single diamond (Atoma 400, Stu at Tools From Japan) for waterstone flattening and use the waterstones for edge sharpening. This has worked well. Among other things, I don't appreciate the sound of metal on diamond stones.

Pam

[FenceFurniture]

I've only had an Atoma for a short time but it seems to me that they kill DMTs stone dead (no way would I buy another DMT - I've had three). I set mine up with 140 on one side and 400 on the other - saves about $20 on the second block and the cost of the freight.

[Bushmiller]

Gadge

Like Pam I use an Atoma 400 for flattening my set of Power ceramic stones and I too purchased them from Stu at Tools from Japan. I have found them perfect. I don't know how they go with J-Nats, but I would not hesitate to ask Stu's advice. I feel sure he would say if they were unsuitable or there is a product that would perform better.

Regards
Paul

[Gadge]

Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely contact Stu. I've considered Atoma but was afraid the double sided adhesive might not stand up to the water when flattening stones. Has anyone had a problem with this or are my concerns unfounded?

Regards,
Garry

[FenceFurniture]

I've considered Atoma but was afraid the double sided adhesive might not stand up to the water when flattening stones. Has anyone had a problem with this or are my concerns unfounded?

They put three bands of it across the face, so there are two similar sized gaps between it. I believe i can see it moving when I am hogging off metal but not enough to concern me (and the results are good). It will certainly not be an issue for stone flattening.

Be aware that water will sit in this air space due to the capillary action - put it back in the drawer when wet and you may have some rusty tools. Blow it out with compressed air or stand it on its edge on some absorbent paper.

[NeilS]

I've also moved over to Atoma a few years ago.

The one I use on my stones has done a lot of work over the last 7 years and is only starting to ease off now.

Flatness and attachment has never been an issue, but I have always purchased mine pre-mounted.

I recently purchased #1200 plate for my naturals, but am finding it too fine for that purpose; too slow. I'm getting to the stage of life where I reckon I will wear out before my stones! So, I'm heading back to the #400-#600 plates for that purpose. Gadge, if you would like the #1200 for blades, it's yours. As you know, I owe you 'one'.

Neil

PS - some stone afficionardos recommend not using the same diamond plate on steel and stone. I have never mixed mine, so can't comment on any downside of doing so.

[Bushmiller]

I've considered Atoma but was afraid the double sided adhesive might not stand up to the water when flattening stones. Has anyone had a problem with this or are my concerns unfounded?

Regards,
Garry

Garry

I have only used my Atoma for flattening stones and it has always been used with water. It hasn't seen huge useage, but there are no problems so far.

Regards
Paul

[derekcohen]

The Atoma 400 grit has received wide acclaim on several forums. The alternative to this is a Extra Coarse DMT.

I do not recommend monocrystalline diamond stones, such as DMT, for steel as they are not as durable as polycrystalline diamond stones, such as Ezy-lap. For steel, I would get a 600 grit (Fine) Ezy-lap. It will take a while to wear in, and as it does it hones like a higher grit. I have used one for about 10 plus years and I consider that it is closer to a 2000 grit now. It just goes on and on. From the 600 grit you can easily finish on Veritas green honing compound (0.5 micron or 100000 grit).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Heavansabove]

The Atoma 400 grit has received wide acclaim on several forums. The alternative to this is a Extra Coarse DMT.

I do not recommend monocrystalline diamond stones, such as DMT, for steel as they are not as durable as polycrystalline diamond stones, such as Ezy-lap. For steel, I would get a 600 grit (Fine) Ezy-lap. It will take a while to wear in, and as it does it hones like a higher grit. I have used one for about 10 plus years and I consider that it is closer to a 2000 grit now. It just goes on and on. From the 600 grit you can easily finish on Veritas green honing compound (0.5 micron or 100000 grit). Derek

I agree on the DMT, my Extra Coarse was not coarse for long, and I probably should use it for flattening stones. Don't know who sells Eze-Lap in Oz, but readily available in US (where my sons live...)

Cheers
Peter

[derekcohen]

my Extra Coarse was not coarse for long, and I probably should use it for flattening stones

Thanks Peter - I meant to note that the DMT Extra Coarse (275 grit) is good for flattening stones, just not good for steel. I used mine for stones until I purchased a Shapton diamond plate (usually $$$ but purchased mine at a sale). After this it was used on steel. It still cuts after about 5 years, but no where as it should (allowing for breaking in).

I have just purchased another Ezy-lap, indeed I have purchased two, the fine (600 grit) and the coarse (275 grit), both in 8x3". Both from Amazon. These are to aid in restoring vintage irons for moulding planes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Heavansabove]

Thanks Peter - I meant to note that the DMT Extra Coarse (275 grit) is good for flattening stones, just not good for steel. I used mine for stones until I purchased a Shapton diamond plate (usually $$$ but purchased mine at a sale). After this it was used on steel. It still cuts after about 5 years, but no where as it should (allowing for breaking in).

I have just purchased another Ezy-lap, indeed I have purchased two, the fine (600 grit) and the coarse (275 grit), both in 8x3". Both from Amazon. These are to aid in restoring vintage irons for moulding planes. Derek

Thanks for the thumbs up on the DMT stone (my only diamond stone) for flattening stones. I also am thinking of getting the Eze-laps, will do when in US in near future. I look at my accumulation of stones (water and oil) I have acquired over time, not much rhyme, all at sales (garage, flea, retailer closing down), but they have got me by. Probably time to rationalise, if only to make space.

Cheers
Peter

[FenceFurniture]

I purchased a Shapton diamond plate (usually $$$ but purchased mine at a sale).

Derek I've never heard of a Shapton Diamond plate before - where can they be purchased?

Edit: found some USA suppliers.