Boiled Linseed Oil options for restoring wooden tools

[tuscany33]

Hi Everyone,

Over the past few months I have been accumulating various hand tools and have recently commenced their restoration. Whilst many of these are in fine condition, some have dry and worn timber components that are in need of a little tlc. The general thrust is towards the use of Boiled Linseed Oil, and I shan't argue with decades of experience just yet. I recently read an article on the Wk finetools website (http://www.wkfinetools.com/trestore/...amerimprov.asp) which suggests that BLO produced by the addition of chemical additives is not suitable for the task. Unfortunately, the most affordable source of BLO is the local(nationwide) hardware store which carries the Diggers brand which is produced using drying agents.

Have any of you had experience using the so called 'Pale' Boiled Linseed oil? If so do you recommend it? What other options are there for the restoration of dried-out timber (in my case, a spofford brace with a very loose wrist-handle)?

Look forward to your views

[BobL]

I've used diggers BLO for many old and new tools and I haven't found a problem with it.
In fact I even add my own drying agent and that is a bit of white shellac.
First I wipe on 2 or 3 coats of BLO and leave it overnight between coats. The next coats I apply with a rag just damp with BL plus some drops of white shellac (WS).
The first of these coats uses 1-2 drops of WS and leave ON.
The next coat uses the same damp BLO rage but now using 3-4 drops of WS and leave ON, and the final coat uses 5-6 drops of WS.
A vigorous buffing with a clean rang now leaves the tool with a great feel that lasts for quite a few months.
To renew the finish and feel, a BLO dampened rag with the 6 drops of WS is all you need.

[FenceFurniture]

I'd say following Bob's line of adding extra drying agent to Diggers Pale BLO would be a real good idea. When I used it on a bench top (thinned 50% with gum turps) it just wouldn't dry properly after a couple of weeks (sawdust on the bench would still go a bit damp with oil). That was only two coats as I recall, and they were sanded in.

FWIW, I'm in a cool climate - maybe that had an impact on the drying.

[Berlin]

You could pop into a good art supplies and get some harlem siccative which comes in a wee bottle. A few drops added to the oil will speed the drying (or catalyse the polymerisation), but don't be heavy handed, too much causes the film to crack.

It used to be a lead based solution but I think now days it's cobalt, which is less toxic but results in a more brittle oil film, but that's only a problem on soft surfaces like canvas that flex. In hardware stores in Europe you can get it right where you buy your BLO but I've never seen it outside the art shop here.

Cheers

[Ian Wells]

BLO is just a heat polymerized linseed oil ( oils dry by polymerization and oxidation) .
if you don't want to use BLO you could buy Stand oil which is heat polymerized oil without oxygen (nitrogen filled kettle) or you could make yourself some sun thickened linseed oil by filling a clear glass jar with pure linseed oil and leaving it in the sun for a few months. Both will dry and work well. Having said that straight linseed oil will work and dry just as well. Use an artists grade rather than a food grade as the food grades are often made on presses that press non drying seed oils or have had anti oxidants added to them to stop rancidity.
Dryers are usually heavy metals ( cobalt, lead) that speed oxidization , they also weaken oil films and are mostly poisonous. Uv light and fresh dry air are all that is really needed .
the old mantra is one wipe over a day for a week once a week for a month then once a month for a year. And burn of leave the rags in a bucket of water as they can readily self combust. Cheers ian

[son_of_bluegras]

At one time, BLO was heat polymerized (the "boiled"). Then chemical driers were discovered. Initially a lead based compound was used. Until it was found to be toxic when ingested. Today the chemical driers are usually either cobalt or magnesium (I believe). I've seen Dapwood claim they still heat polymerize their BLO.

ron

[Berlin]

At one time, BLO was heat polymerized (the "boiled"). Then chemical driers were discovered. Initially a lead based compound was used. Until it was found to be toxic when ingested. Today the chemical driers are usually either cobalt or magnesium (I believe). I've seen Dapwood claim they still heat polymerize their BLO.

ron

Ron, I think the chemical driers were discovered in the 16th century

There are lots of toxic oil painter's recipes dating back forever with litharge, blanc d'argent, minium and other old names for various lead oxides.

The other thing from the art shop you could use is mastic. It's just a crystallised tree sap that you dissolve in turps to make a varnish but added to your oil (30/70) it increases the gloss and shortens the drying time. I'd never put it on a painting but I've used it once or twice on timber.

[Ian Wells]

At one time, BLO was heat polymerized (the "boiled"). Then chemical driers were discovered. Initially a lead based compound was used. Until it was found to be toxic when ingested. Today the chemical driers are usually either cobalt or magnesium (I believe). I've seen Dapwood claim they still heat polymerize their BLO.

ron

In Australia all Boiled linseed oils are still heat polymerised to my knowledge. Chemical driers have been in use since the late 1300's. Their action though was probably known about by the ancients , who were in many ways fine and practical chemists Chemically creating a long chain molecule in linseed oil without using heat sounds like a whole heap of trouble and I can't say I've heard of a way of reliably doing that in my many years in the paint business. Mostly polymerised oils are used for their film forming ability rather than their speed of drying. Thus my question don't we want penetration into the wood ? so use a lighter weight oil like straight linseed oil, safflower oil or walnut oil they will still dry if given light and oxygen and the thinner application coat means no need for solvents or dryers.

[Ian Wells]

Ron, I think the chemical driers were discovered in the 16th century

There are lots of toxic oil painter's recipes dating back forever with litharge, blanc d'argent, minium and other old names for various lead oxides.

The other thing from the art shop you could use is mastic. It's just a crystallised tree sap that you dissolve in turps to make a varnish but added to your oil (30/70) it increases the gloss and shortens the drying time. I'd never put it on a painting but I've used it once or twice on timber.

Berlin where are you getting mastic from ? The last time we tried to import it from Chios it was a horrendous price.

[Berlin]

To be honest Ian, I don't use it often so the little bag I have was bought by my dad in the 70's!

I just assumed it would still be around like Damar, which would work just as well in a wood finish I guess.

Matt

[Christos]

I have used BLO as a finish to help protect the surface of the wooden handles for my turning chisels, several mallets and on the garden tools.

The main reason I went in this direction was to get an easy finish to apply and reapply when I think about it.

I personally do not think it matters too much if this was traditionally heated or drying agents were added as the the main ingredient in BLO is Linseed Oil.

[stuffy]

Could BLO be thinned with a more volatile solvent than mineral turps to aid penetration and improve drying times?

Shellite maybe?

[Berlin]

Could BLO be thinned with a more volatile solvent than mineral turps to aid penetration and improve drying times?

Shellite maybe?

Give it a whirl. If you over thin it it won't form a good surface film but I suppose really thin oil might be better for 'feeding' the wood. Dunno Then you could top it of with fat layers down the track.

These days I shellac then wax my tools, pretty much everything actually. I'm too impatient to build an oil finish with all those coats.

[Zsteve]

I have used the pale boiled LO with good results but haven't been able to find it (however hadn't looked to hard). I usually apply a couple of coats then wax - no problems. The BLO usually sets (polymerises) summer/autumn here within about a week. I also quite often use just raw linseed oil, takes a bit longer to set which allows more time to soak/seep in - but it still sets. Never had issues with BLO or raw LO not setting and remaining tacky - Not sure what all the fuss is about. maybe stop applying lots of coats and it will set...

[son_of_bluegras]

I have no idea when chemical driers were discovered and didn't say anything concerning time, merely that heating came first.

As for a useful follow-up, there is available on Project Gutenberg a digital copy of an old book that contains many recipes for various finishes (some of which contain toxic ingredients) that speaks of how to heat linseed oil to get BLO. Don't recall the name of it at the moment and haven't the time to look right now, perhaps tomorrow.

ron