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  1. #1
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    Default Sources of drill bits, counterbores and slitters for saw handles

    Hi All!

    I am enjoying the numerous sources for finding split nuts these days, and figured that knowing the best places to buy tools for making handles for saws might also be handy.

    I've seen that a number of people use slitters fitted to their router table for fitting their blades into their saw handles and was wondering if anyone had some decent sources for buying these?

    I've had a go at drilling saw plate and that was a long slow job using standard drill bits, and tends to deform the metal around the edges. Where do people get the you-beaut bits for drilling saw plate?

    I've got a trial handle that I'd love to have a go at fitting, but I am a little hesitant about using a spade bit to put in the screws and medallion. Where do people pick up decent counterbores to do that?

    Thanks,

    Craig

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  3. #2
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    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morbius View Post
    Hi All!

    I am enjoying the numerous sources for finding split nuts these days, and figured that knowing the best places to buy tools for making handles for saws might also be handy.

    I've seen that a number of people use slitters fitted to their router table for fitting their blades into their saw handles and was wondering if anyone had some decent sources for buying these?

    I've had a go at drilling saw plate and that was a long slow job using standard drill bits, and tends to deform the metal around the edges. Where do people get the you-beaut bits for drilling saw plate?

    I've got a trial handle that I'd love to have a go at fitting, but I am a little hesitant about using a spade bit to put in the screws and medallion. Where do people pick up decent counterbores to do that?

    Thanks,

    Craig
    Hi Craig

    Stewie (planemaker) knows a source of solid carbide bits for the saw plate. I think IanW can help with the slitters (for a drill press).

    As for drilling the handle - I wouldn't use a spade bit. You can get smaller forstners from Lee valley (second table down has the 7/16" etc). Those forstners aren't as good as Colt in my experience, but unfortunately Colt don't make one smaller than 1/2".

    I also have a 7/16" Tungsten Carbide Brad Point from Riss (Colt) - in fact I have two slightly different types. They are are currently with IanW to see what he thinks of their performance for saw nut holes (I've not used them yet). Frankly I doubt they'll be any better or worse than a forstner (given that the hole is only 3-4mm deep, it's not a big ask of a drill bit), but it would at least be another source of a bit that will do the job.

    HTH
    Brett
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  4. #3
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    You can buy a slitting saw from mcjings or Os like McMaster Carr.

    before deciding on a counterbore you need to decide on split nut sizes and supplier. I would buy the counterbore setup from Stewie for TFWW nuts. If you are going to get supplies from Issac Smith he very kindly went out of his way to supply me with those that fit his splits nuts.

  5. #4
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    Have a look at blackburn tools website
    Under saw parts
    No affiliation with them
    But a great site

  6. #5
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    Default Suppliers list and Links

    Guys,

    Thanks for this.

    What I have so far is:

    Slitting Saws:
    Mcjings
    McMaster Carr

    Counter Bores
    Colt Zero Mark Counter Sinks (Carba-Tec) (Not recommended)
    Veritas Counter Sink Sets (LV)

    Forstner Bits
    Colt (from Carba-Tec)
    HSS Forstner & Saw Tooth Bits (LV)
    Maxi-Cut Forstner Bits (LV)

    Spade Bit
    3/16 Solid Carbide Spade Bit (Blackburn Tools)

    Happy to keep adding suppliers that people recommend. Apparently the Colt Zero Mark ones don't make the grade due to accuracy.

    Craig
    Last edited by Morbius; 30th August 2014 at 09:15 PM. Reason: Added supplier

  7. #6
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    Craig, I have had a few Colt ZeroMark countersinks and I wouldn't give you tuppence for them. I actually gave them away (as new) because I didn't feel that I could ask any money for them.

    There are 6 known problems with them, and any one of those six is a deal breaker.

    Just for starters, several of them had a 60° countersink. Yep 60°, instead of 82° or 90°. Quality control of a Chinese standard - that's because they come out of China (unlike the flagship Colt products which now come out of France and are excellent).
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  8. #7
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    Please add Blackburn tools to your supplier list.

  9. #8
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    Stewie (Planemaker) has put together some kits that are very good - counterbore, carbide bit for saw plate (from Blackburn), depth stop, saw screws (from TFWW), and an alignment plate for use with counterbore. Drop him a PM to see if he has any left - very reasonable cost. there is a thread somewhere that I cannot find at present.

    Cheers
    Peter

    ps if you get saw screws with the square section to stop twisting, chiseling out the square is a pain. Suggest picking up a 1/4" machine mortise chisel to do an accurate cut of the square mortise (still have to dig out the wood, but works well). I picked up a new one on eBay, though I notice the seller has increased the price... You might already have a mortise machine.

  10. #9
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    Just an FYI.
    First: If you are going to be making more than a few saws you may try using straight flute carbide bits. They hold up better than the spade bits. I have used spiral, straight and spade and much prefer the straight flutes.
    Second: Take a look at ENCO as well as Traver's tools for slitting slotting saws. I recommend cobalt. Carbide is a bit over kill for a few saws and very brittle.
    Three: TGIAG, ( Dominic ) as well as I sell saw bolts with the square under head and split nuts. I also have what some call shoulder nuts. These are superior in my opinion than those washer types. I have tried three different styles. Needless to say I started making the square under head over a year ago and never looked back. Then Dom followed with the exact same. Good move on his part. Dom's prices on them were pretty reasonable as well.
    Note: I assume you have a CNC shop some where there. Hence you could have them made locally and save much on shipping. Etc.
    Four: Counter bores are nice, and I use piloted counter bores myself. However you really don't need them, per say. Unless you just want to spend a few dollars/ lbs. Take a look at my site under "Ramblings".

    Lastly, I am still waiting patiently to view all those saws / kits I shipped some time back. Best wishes.

  11. #10
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    Thanks to Ron,

    We have some more suppliers:

    Slitting Saws:
    Mcjings
    McMaster Carr
    ENCO
    Cobalt (as per Ron's suggestion)

    Counter Bores
    Colt Zero Mark Counter Sinks (Carba-Tec) (Not recommended)
    Veritas Counter Sink Sets (LV)

    Forstner Bits
    Colt (from Carba-Tec)
    HSS Forstner & Saw Tooth Bits (LV)
    Maxi-Cut Forstner Bits (LV)

    Spade Bit
    3/16 Solid Carbide Spade Bit (Blackburn Tools)

    Happy to keep adding suppliers that people recommend. Apparently the Colt Zero Mark ones don't make the grade due to accuracy.

    Craig[/QUOTE]

  12. #11
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    Default Handle Making Rasp

    I found this on the Gramercy site:

    Gramercy Hand Cut Saw Maker's Rasp

    GT-SHRASP_A_big.jpg

    Reviews seem to all be fairly positive and I've been eyeing one of these off for a while.

    Craig

  13. #12
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    Default

    I've also been looking at them my self.
    There very high on I must have one of those list.
    They look excellent for making saw and plane handles.

  14. #13
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    I have a couple of the Gramercy rasps and have been very happy with them.
    They are stainless so a benefit if rust is an issue!
    I haven't compared them directly to Auriou or Liogier but being hand stitched they are much better than the common machine stitched rasps.

    I use a standard "Universal" drill bit for saw plate. They look like a bit like a masonry bit but have carbide teeth. Use it without hammer - goes through saw plate like a hot knife through butter. Just need to support the plate behind the drill.
    Much cheaper than solid carbide (and only the carbide bit cuts the hole ).
    Here is the Bosch example: https://www.masters.com.au/product/9...ill-bit-5x85mm

    The TGIAG saw nuts are excellent but you need a US address as they don't currently ship to Australia.

    I have also purchased one of these but haven't had a chance to try it out yet:
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191041467898

  15. #14
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    quote: The TGIAG saw nuts are excellent but you need a US address as they don't currently ship to Australia.


    These are still available for Australian residents. . I just checked.

    http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/

    The Logier Handle Makers Rasp with its increased curvature is much better suited to shaping backsaw handles than the Gramercy.

    If your going to purchase any of the Logier Rasps, go for the harder Sapphire Finish. The softer Traditional Finish will experience wear when used on our typical hardwoods.

    I also prefer the superior stitch pattern on the Logier Rasp's to that used on the Gramercy.

    http://www.hand-stitched-rasp-riffle...aker-rasp.html

    For saw bolts with a 3/16 shaft I would highly recommend the 3/16 Solid Carbide Bits. After 6 months of use on saw plate, I am still using the same bit, and its never required a resharpen. If you do require a different imperial size send Isaac Smith an email. I am sure he will try his best to source it for you.

    http://blackburntools.com/new-tools/...ill/index.html

    Stewie;

  16. #15
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    Hi,

    I think you are mixing up TGIAG saw nuts and TFWW saw nuts.
    TGIAG currently only ship to North America according to their web site.
    http://www.tgiag.com/sawnuts.html

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