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  1. #16
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    May 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumbthumper View Post
    Very nice.

    I much prefer the look of the inlayed side plate.

    How did you attach the brass sole to the depth stop?
    Hi Thumbthumper. I used a 2 part epoxy mix. Both inside surfaces were roughened up with a scrap piece of toothed saw plate to maximize the bonding. Given a couple of days for the epoxy to fully harden it will supply an extremely strong joint.

    Stewie;

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  3. #17
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    Jul 2003
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    Melbourne
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    Fantastic work The inlayed brass was worth the extra effort.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by joez View Post
    Fantastic work The inlayed brass was worth the extra effort.
    Thanks joez.

    Stewie;

  5. #19
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    Jun 2005
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    Sydney
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    Like the coffin smoother, you have really nailed the lines/appearance of the plane... I really like the way the wedge and block come together.
    Great work, be nice to see it when the final coats are done.

    Are you happy with the way it performs in use?
    Last edited by Clinton1; 12th September 2014 at 06:42 PM. Reason: spelling!
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  6. #20
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    Australia
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    Thanks Clinton. The way the wedge abutments are formed within the outer shape of the sliding stop is something I came up with and is quite different to the traditional set up used on this type of plane. The beauty being that the tines of the wedge are completely sealed from view from the underside of the plane.

    The plane's construction is reasonably difficult to put together but that no surprising given its the 1st one I making so I am having to sort out angles and measurements as they are required. Any after this will be much more straight forward.

    I was able to take the plane through its paces the other day and it performed quite well. I trialed the plane on some hardwoods, mediums, and softer woods but found the plane too aggressive on the softer woods. I had about 2mm of blade depth set on the plane at the time. Since then have found out that this type of plane only need a very fine set to function well, so it should be okay on the softer woods next time I use it.

    Appreciate the feedback.

    Stewie;

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Nice work

    Great feeling to make something that is a pleasure to use
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  8. #22
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    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    Stewie

    Very nice work as usual. I agree with the others regarding the recessed side plate. Just looks more refined.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #23
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    Thanks Paul. Sounds like it was worth the extra effort.

    Stewie;

  10. #24
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    The following is the completed boxed chamfer plane. Its had it last coat of shellac and received its final sanding. I will need to wait a couple of days to allow the shellac to harden before I can add some shine to it.

    When chamfering the edge the shavings tend to be quite stringy in form. As such the boxed chamfer plane does requires a fairly generous mouth opening to allow these shavings to pass through unabated to the throat area.

    I have also added a brass piece between the upper tines of the wooden box to prevent later inward creep. An issue I noticed on some of the earlier made chamfer planes of this type.
    I added a bevel the lower edge of the brass brace to deflect the shaving..

    And lastly a brass impact area on the back end of the plane to save damaging the wood surface.









    Now for testing the chamfer plane out on some Australian Blackwood and some ordinary grained Cypress. The stop was set for a 12mm wide chamfered and the cutting irons cutting edge set at around 0.5mm .









    The 2 chamfers looked very good on consistent width and clean cut finish.

    regards Stewie;
    Last edited by planemaker; 14th September 2014 at 06:06 PM. Reason: correction

  11. #25
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    Australia
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    What's in the wooden box your asking.

    A set of small knives blades I purchased a few years ago from a knife making supplier. The handles and storage box I made myself. Handles are Tas.Myrtle and the box is made from Tas.Blackwood. The top of the box has been grain scored with a toothing plane. The knife guards are made from hardened cow hide.





    This knife is the one I prefer to use for inlay work.



    Stewie;

  12. #26
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    Nov 2004
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    Very smart looking Stewie and quite unusual. I am a big fan of the specific handmade tools. I tend to just bodge something up, but you and others make them a work of art .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #27
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    Thanks Paul. I only wish it was that easy for me.

    Stewie;

  14. #28
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    Aug 2009
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    Armadale Perth WA
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    Awesome plane, of course.
    What is the goldy/yellow aluminium thing?
    It looks like some kind of precision thingammy ... precision being a word I had to look up ...
    Thanks,
    Paul.

  15. #29
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    Hi Paul. From what I can work out its a non hand tool orientated aluminum precision thing a ma jig.

    Stewie;

  16. #30
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    Finally got around to sizing the wooden parts required to make another 4 box chamfer planes. Once these are completed I wont be making any more.

    The body and stops are Merbau while the wooden wedges will be in Jarrah.

    Stewie;






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