Using a dry log cut

[ianosgood010]

I'm an amateur woodworker and am attempting to make a table (like the table shown) out of a log cut that is about 3 inches thick. I took it to my grandpa who has been woodworking for many years and he said that it doesn't have enough moisture to use. If I were to use it, it would crack more than it has. Can anyone tell me how (if at all possible) I can add moisture to it? Oil maybe? Or if I would even need to moisten it. Or if it's beyond saving. Also, how I would seal it for outside use. Lacquer? Thanks.
IMG_1170.jpg IMG_1323.jpg

[Robson Valley]

What will it be? A table or a stool? Wood cracks = that is a fact of life. That piece has one crack. Suppose it had 5?
By taping up the bottom and side, you might fill the void with epoxy mixed with brass key-cutter filings from the local hardware store.
Might as well turn a flaw into a feature, yes?

Outdoors, the weather is far more aggressive than any finish invented.
Sikkens Cetol is the very best of the lot but expensive and not available
in small quantities (total log house size = yes).
Why the Hello bother? Let it weather, it will outlast you and gain
some of the character that I lack in the process.

I live at 53N in the mountains. I've got 10 western red cedar carvings outdoors in the WX.
I like to watch them weather, nothing is anywhere near turning into rot and dust yet.
Black house paint or a couple of coats of Varathane satin. Good enough for me.

[rod1949]

Can you get a clamp/s on it to close the gap? If so then get a glue into the gap, clamp it up and then drill two holes diagonally in opposite directions in the side, one either side of the joint and one above the other then glue and insert two dowels and let set for a week. Could work or creat a new split else where.

[BobL]

Can you get a clamp/s on it to close the gap? If so then get a glue into the gap, clamp it up and then drill two holes diagonally in opposite directions in the side, one either side of the joint and one above the other then glue and insert two dowels and let set for a week. Could work or creat a new split else where.

I'll take a bet on the "split elsewhere" especially if it is clamped. 3" of thickness will take about 3 summers to dry so I'd recommend not clamping it and putting it in a cool (not totally dry place - like under a house) and wait until after the 3 summers and it is still in one piece and then put dowels through any splits.

As far as adding moisture to it, oil is not water an it won't close the crack. Dry wood is more that just green wood without the water. As it dries the wood cells shrink differently in different directions and there is not much chance of getting back all the dimensional changes. All that oil do is filll cavities but it won't make the wood cells swell back to their original size

[ianosgood010]

Well at this point I realize that the cut has a split in it and I don't really want to take it away. After all, I was going for a more rugged and weathered look in my table. It might help its character. Could anyone tell me how I would go about sealing it for outdoor use?

[Christos]

If it was me and depending on how often I want to refinish I would either use Danish oil or a poly based finish with UV resistance.

If I choose the oil means I have to apply more often.

Normally when wood is exposed to the weather the other layer will eventually go grey. It is just a matter of when and what will be needed to look after the piece to make it last as long as possible.

I think the project you have embarked on is going to be a fun one to make. Personally I would seal the crack with epoxy, either clear or dyed. Mainly to stop little critters making it a home.

Good luck and do post photos when finish.