$2 scrub plane

[Robson Valley]

You all come dangerously close to explaining what a scrub plane is used for.
What does the surface look like to begin with?
What do you get as a result? Textured surface?
Are you resizing timber?
Is "smooth" what you want when "factory flat" doesn't matter?
What tools would you use next?
Any objections to a textured surface?

I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm doing much the same with the hand tools of the Pacific Northwest.
Planer knife and fine adze.

chook: the website claims that your PM mail box needs an enema.

[stuffy]

+1 on the tighter radius.

Get the chip breaker right back out of the way.

You don't need the full width of the blade extending through the mouth.

The throat needs to be as far open as possible to make room for thick chips.



Steve.

[Morbius]

Not a $2 Scrub Plane, but interesting modifications to the mechanics of the original.

Looks good, but does anyone know how it compares, or differs from the original and the LN?

Craig

[bridger]

just take the chipbreaker off. you'll have to set the lever cap screw down a little, and the depth adjuster won't be doing anything, but the lateral adjuster will still work . it's not like you need fine depth adjustment on a scrub anyway. either tap it into place with a little hammer or just flip the lever on the lever cap loose with your thumb holding it in place and use your other hand to set blade depth.

a #4 with a wide open mouth and a moderate camber is a small jack plane, just as a #6 set up the same way is a large jack plane. jack isn't about the number, it's about the function. I have a #5-1/2 set up as a big smoother, with a tight mouth and a thick tapered blade from an old woodie ground with the barest of curve for corner relief. I also have smaller smoothers, but when the mass is needed, it's there.