Oval skews?

[Evanism]

Gday all, a touch of wisdom needed.

My turning progresses. Maybe not better, but progressing.

I love the two skews I have, a Robert Sorby 19mm and and old 1 1/4" Luna (sweeden). Awesome to turn with, very fast and results are great.

After getting a huge roughing gouge at the CWWWS, I'm contemplating getting a big oval skew: e.g. https://carrolls.sitesuite.net.au/sh...1-14-oval-skew

Before I go dropping $100 on such a beastie, are they "worth it"?

[Jim Carroll]

They are different to use compared to a flat skew.

With the rocking bevel some dont like that feel

If you want a large skew cant go past the P&N 1-1/4"

Unhandled

Handled

[pommyphil]

I bought an oval years ago, thinking it would be easier to use, it wasn't. It is now unused . Harder to sharpen, not as useful as a scraper. I'd go with the 30mm flat. Phil

[chuck1]

I personally don't like them! I prefer rectangular or square skews. The one I have oval seems to chatter!

[Luke Maddux]

I like my large oval. It's big but not as big as the one you want. I think it's a 1". I find it very easy to rotate into a cut to control the depth. Makes it easier to ride the bevel, which reduces the likelihood of a catch (which is a big deal for me). I do understand the beef others have with them though. I find the smaller one difficult to handle. It tends to over-rotate and cut too deep.

Just my AU$0.02 (which, in the absence of any AU$0.01 currency, rounds to AU$0.00...).

[artme]

I have a small oval skew That I use only occasionally and then only on things like pens. To me they are a bit of a gimmick.

While I admire P&N tools my one concern with the skews is the lack of rounded corners. Rounded corners make it easier to roll beads.

[Christos]

I do not have an oval skew so not comment in that respect.

I do have the P&N skew and it does have a rounded base when resting on the tool rest.

I also have a small skew about 12mm that I have for fine cuts. It is just carbon steel so not very good to use as your main tool.

[Jim Carroll]

I have a small oval skew That I use only occasionally and then only on things like pens. To me they are a bit of a gimmick.

While I admire P&N tools my one concern with the skews is the lack of rounded corners. Rounded corners make it easier to roll beads.

The P&N does have a rolled edge on the short point side which allows you to roll beads easily.

On the long point side there is square edges so you can make dedicated v cuts easily, there is others that have rolled edges on both sides but I find them uncomfortable when doing V cuts as they have a tendancy to roll slightly.

[jefferson]

I bought an oval years ago, thinking it would be easier to use, it wasn't. It is now unused . Harder to sharpen, not as useful as a scraper. I'd go with the 30mm flat. Phil

Harder to sharpen? I'd like to see the jig that manages that one! Agree about the P & N's, though the Hamlets are OK too.

[jefferson]

OOPS!

The oval skews are the easiest to sharpen (in the Tormek and True Grind jigs). But not the round ones. Can't see a use for those.

The rounded edges on some brands make rolling beads / vee cuts easier, for both the turner and the tool rest.

[smiife]

Gday all, a touch of wisdom needed.

My turning progresses. Maybe not better, but progressing.

I love the two skews I have, a Robert Sorby 19mm and and old 1 1/4" Luna (sweeden). Awesome to turn with, very fast and results are great.

After getting a huge roughing gouge at the CWWWS, I'm contemplating getting a big oval skew: e.g. https://carrolls.sitesuite.net.au/sh...1-14-oval-skew

Before I go dropping $100 on such a beastie, are they "worth it"?

Hi evanism,
I have got the 1 1/4" p&n skew and have found it
very easy to use, one side is rounded and other side flat
get the unhandled one and custom make your own
handle to suit you , hope this helps

[Mobyturns]

The P&N does have a rolled edge on the short point side which allows you to roll beads easily.

On the long point side there is square edges so you can make dedicated v cuts easily, there is others that have rolled edges on both sides but I find them uncomfortable when doing V cuts as they have a tendancy to roll slightly.

Evanism,

Jim has been around this wood turning game quite a while so he has sound advice & well worth listening too but like a lot of tools we become accustomed to what we have and often revert back to what we are comfortable with or were taught to use.

Time to take stock of what you propose to use an 1 1/4" skew for before you purchase one. That should then dictate the skew profile required. Wanting an 1 1/4" skew suggests larger projects which often means the tool rest can be a fair way out from the surface being cut with the skew especially if there are pommels etc.

Rigidity & heft of the skew blade becomes a highly desirable trait and to me rules out oval skews immediately on larger work. But if you are dealing with round stock only then they may suit your requirement.

Ease of use across the tool rest - Radiused or preferably Rolled Edge skews offer a wider foot print, roll nicely for beads etc, and IMO are easier to control and do less damage to the tool rest than square corners or the narrow edge of an oval skew when cutting detail (vee cuts etc).

Longevity of the cutting edge - dictates the profile & geometry of the bevels, and tool steel. My preference is for shorter bevel lengths and approximately a 70 degree "point" on a pretty traditional grind. Personally I don't go for the curved skew grind.

I use a skew a lot, in fact I much prefer spindle work over bowl turning. I have put in the hours to teach myself how to use them and sharpen them properly, at least I think so but I am always willing to learn more though. I also use the long point frequently to cut what are essentially "beads" on my laminated spinning tops so love the RE both sides.

My preference design wise is for the profile of the Hamlet Rolled Edge Skew Chisel (HCT107) - for the RE on both Long & Short Point sides; then the P&N or similar with the RE on Short Point side. I use Hamlet RE Skews & I have been using Thompson V10's which come with RE on short point only but have been modified to have RE both sides. The Thompson's also have a little thicker tool steel which is a bonus to me. P&N are nice to use with the thicker tool steel, but of all the ovals I have used none tickle my fancy.

This clip by Richard Raffan is well worth a look for any one using a skew http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodt...g-catches.aspx

Also Alan Lacer has some good info http://woodturninglearn.net/articles/sharpen1.htm

[John Doyle]

Oval skews are definitely easier to sharpen using tormek jig and certainty easy to use. My opinion for what it is worth. JD

[artme]

Good post Moby!!!

I learnt to use a skew by reading - several times - the work of Mike Darlow. I practiced on radiata until I was game enough to proceed to better timbers.

I don't use the skew much so when I have a lay off from it I go back to doing a bit of practice.

[stuffy]

As you already have an 1 1/4" I'd recommend a 1" skew like the P&N with a bit of thickness to it.

I find 1" the most versatile size, heavy enough for peeling cuts, wide enough for most smoothing/planing cuts and not too bulky for rolling beads.

I'm not a fan of oval skews, not enough meat in them and no tool rest support for the short point when rolling beads.

I like a slight curve to the cutting edge on 1" and bigger skews, not enough to lose the angle of the short or long points, just enough that not too much of the edge cuts at once.



Steve