Why? (Urgent)

[NLJBHDWood]

I built a desk hutch for a school project. Anyway, the first and second coats went on perfect (nice really smooth, shiny finish). Come third coat it became rough and you could see all the bristle marks left from the brush. Sanded back starting at 320 upto 1200. Then I tried again today. Learnt about the brushing technique of light long smooth one sweep passes on the finally coat. Thats all good now, the finish is free of marks. But now, the finish is really rough. Not smooth at all? Its inside drying close to a heater so its not sitting outside. But the finish is still rough? What am i doing wrong. Do thick of a coat? How do i thin it down (feast watson satin)? Should i just run over it with steel wool and reapply? HELPPPPP it needs to be done by monday.

[Master Splinter]

Feast Watson Satin what? Varnish (internal or external), Tung Oil, Wipe on Poly, Satinproof, Stain and varnish, Floorseal, Floorclear, Maxithane......?

Stabbing in the dark here, but the third coat could have been applied too soon, partially softening the layer underneath, which might be wrinkling, or the layer on top might be stopping the layer underneath from drying or....

The quick, 'gotta be dry by Monday' approach.
1) Sand to bare timber.
2) Go to Supercheap auto and buy a few litres of acrylic topcoat clear and thinners (yea, the stuff for cars).
3) Spray on 3-4-5-6 coats with a spraygun, leaving 10 minutes flash off time between coats.
4) Compound with car polish late Sunday night.
5) Done.

[NLJBHDWood]

Feast Watson Satin what? Varnish (internal or external), Tung Oil, Wipe on Poly, Satinproof, Stain and varnish, Floorseal, Floorclear, Maxithane......?

Stabbing in the dark here, but the third coat could have been applied too soon, partially softening the layer underneath, which might be wrinkling, or the layer on top might be stopping the layer underneath from drying or....

The quick, 'gotta be dry by Monday' approach.
1) Sand to bare timber.
2) Go to Supercheap auto and buy a few litres of acrylic topcoat clear and thinners (yea, the stuff for cars).
3) Spray on 3-4-5-6 coats with a spraygun, leaving 10 minutes flash off time between coats.
4) Compound with car polish late Sunday night.
5) Done.

Sorry. Feast Watson internal varnish. I just had a peek at the other two compoentns that are still drying but werent so close to the heat source and apart from still being a bit 'thick' (i guess) as they arent fully dried yet, there are flawless. Is it by chance that the other component in my OP was to close to the heater and had been 'dried' out to quickly?

[Master Splinter]

Yep. Too close to the heater and the varnish skins over the top, not letting the solvents properly evaporate from underneath.

[NLJBHDWood]

Yep. Too close to the heater and the varnish skins over the top, not letting the solvents properly evaporate from underneath.

Thats it then. Because the other components came out really good. Maybe not as smooth as i would have liked but thats ok. Is there anyway I can make it a bit smoother (ive done the rubbing it down with paper trick already).

[Rod Gilbert]

You could use some soft furniture wax and fine 0000 steel wool it will take off any fuzz and give a silky smooth finish I use a wattyl product. After the finish is cured rub it with the grain with wax and wool then finish with a soft cloth to remove the excess and give a deep luster.
Regards Rod.

[Master Splinter]

If the varnish is a reasonably hard type, you can also try car cutting compound (the stuff used to restore paintwork). It's a fine abrasive which will help polish it up.