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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    10,824

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    You can also transfer marks like this ..



    It allows you to make really skinny, tapered dovetails ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    925

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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    You can also transfer marks like this ..



    It allows you to make really skinny, tapered dovetails ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Now that is an idea I had not thought of. I have a little pull saw which is so thin it disappears when you look at it end on. Might try that.
    My age is still less than my number of posts

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,779

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    Marking off the pins is good for the drawer back, or box construction, but not as easy to mark out for a drawer front where the tails do not go right through
    Yes half blinds I always do tails first. I think it's the only way. For through tails, I like pins first because I find it easier to mark the tails. Marking into end grain is hard to see and depending on the timber I find not always reliable. But for drawer fronts you really have no choice.

    I should also confess that I don't cut them by hand. I use a table saw to cut the pins and band saw to cut the tails. Not that it make a lot of difference but doing pins first on the table saw is easier.

    Some people grind the first few teeth off their dovetail saw for marking out pins as per Derek's photo. I just use a card scraper.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

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