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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by crowie View Post
    Do you need me up the hill to help move some timber??
    Ah what a wonderful offer Peter! Was it the Zebra wood that did it? There's not much time pressure now as a stack of pallets is far less likely to be an arsonist's dream as the pile of fiddlesticks that was there - it was just begging for a dickhead to pass by with a cigarette lighter - that was their big concern. So any day that suits you - sounds like next Monday would be better?
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  3. #32
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Ah what a wonderful offer Peter! Was it the Zebra wood that did it? There's not much time pressure now as a stack of pallets is far less likely to be an arsonist's dream as the pile of fiddlesticks that was there - it was just begging for a dickhead to pass by with a cigarette lighter - that was their big concern. So any day that suits you - sounds like next Monday would be better?
    No not the Zebra, Brett...
    Just helping a mate and paying it forward.....
    I'll double check with Tracey and give you a call in the day or two..
    Cheers Peter

  4. #33
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    Cheers crowie, and thanks very much indeed.



    Trying to work out the force applied:
    Hammer weighs 1.3 kg
    Diameter of the business end of the punch is 4mm, so about 12.5 sq mm in area.

    Assuming that the striking arc is about 50cm (maybe 60) and it takes maybe a third of a second, that would give an average velocity of 1.5 metres per second and an acceleration of 4.5 m/s/s, which gives 6 Newtons (I think) being applied to 12.5 sq.mm. Don't know how to translate that (if reasonably correct) to the force applied to the 12.5 sq.mm.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  5. #34
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    Mmmm, that can't be right.... that's only the force of 0.6kg sitting on the top of the nail punch.... some units are wrong here.
    I get the same answer though (F=m*a... N=kg*m/s2). So a 1t press would exert 980N ???? Doesn't match my visualisation of a hammer hit...
    BTW, the cross section is of no relevance here. You only need force, not pressure.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

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    You're all blinding me with science here!

    Something I seem to recall from my schoolboy Physics (when I wasn't daydreaming or staring at the breasts of the girl sitting next to me) was that kinetic energy is mass times the square of velocity.

    I think that's why those puny little 15oz. framing hammers work: they can be swung much harder and faster than those awful 2 pounders!
    Sycophant to nobody!

  7. #36
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    Joe is right area is irrelevant.

    [QUOTE=jhovel;1810449]Mmmm, that can't be right.... that's only the force of 0.6kg sitting on the top of the nail punch.... some units are wrong here.
    I get the same answer though (F=m*a... N=kg*m/s2). So a 1t press would exert 980N ????
    1T weight = 1000kg x 9.8 = 9800 N

    The difference is the hammer force is dissipated in a fraction of a second, whereas the 1T press can keep applying the force for much longer.

    This is why impulse (F x t) is usually used to describe high speed impacts that produce a change in momentum.

  8. #37
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    This is what I've used to move bazillions of nails super quick.

    Its actually a punch but if you slide it over the exposed nail (pointy end) or just hit the snapped off nail with it, it will blast a nail completely out or at least make it easy to pull.

    Very effective.

    http://www.addemsairtools.com.au/nai...-counter-sink/

  9. #38
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    Now that looks like it might be the duckz nutz! Not a lot of info on the site - says 2-4mm nails so does that mean the head is 2mm tapering out to a 4mm shank? Reason I ask is that when the punch goes too far into the Cypress it splits it. If the shank was max 4mm it would be perfect I think. More pricey than some of the Arbor Presses going around, but looks much more appropriate.

    Thanks for posting Ben!

    Yesterday I did a bit more experimenting and it seems to work better for breakout if I just continue driving the snapped off nail through in its original direction (placing it over the 7mm hole in a piece of hardwood). Not a definite result yet, but certainly looking better.
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  10. #39
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    How about this big old girl....400x150mm, 8 metres long Douglas Fir beam.



    I think I'm glad it's staying where it is, but they think they'll be taking out all the "smaller" sticks attached to it (a mere 200x50mm).

    Chatting with the owner today, and he has another old building (guesthouse) he is going to gut so I suggested that maybe a posse of wood scavengers could be organised when the time comes. He's all for it.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  11. #40
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    For the glue just use a glue remover. it will save time i can tell you that. after removing a fair amount of lino tiles and trying to remove the glue by hand. the glue remover does it wonderfuly. I will add the name in later as it eludes my mind at the moment but it does not damage the timber.

  12. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Yesterday I did a bit more experimenting and it seems to work better for breakout if I just continue driving the snapped off nail through in its original direction .
    That's what I said


    One more thing you could do to stop the punch going too far thru and jamming in the hole would be to get a 25 x 25 mm piece of steel plate. Drill a hole in the middle of it to fit the size of the punch and weld it onto the punch at a distance along the punch just long enough for the protruding part of the inch to push the main out but not so far as to jam in the hole.

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    That's what I said
    Oops, i think I musta missed that bit


    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    One more thing you could do to stop the punch going too far thru and jamming in the hole would be to get a 25 x 25 mm piece of steel plate. Drill a hole in the middle of it to fit the size of the punch and weld it onto the punch at a distance along the punch just long enough for the protruding part of the inch to push the main out but not so far as to jam in the hole.
    I was thinking of a similar thing Bob - grind the last ~20mm of the punch cylindrical which would leave a shoulder, although it may not be broad enough to stop jamming. Certainly 25x25 would stop it..
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Hi Ian

    I do like a bit of out of the box thinking. However there are a few prohibitive things there. The Flai Mustang blade (the one you refer to) is a very good blade but leaves a very rough finish, and also doesn't come with a 30mm arbor which i need. My table saw only does a 75mm deep cut too, and the boards are between 100mm and 125mm wide. They could be flipped to do two 60mm cuts if the blade fitted my saw.
    you could always put the sawn boards through a drum sander fitted with 80 grit -- a light cut would smooth the rough surface without too much risk of tearing the paper
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  15. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benwoodgo View Post
    This is what I've used to move bazillions of nails super quick.

    Its actually a punch but if you slide it over the exposed nail (pointy end) or just hit the snapped off nail with it, it will blast a nail completely out or at least make it easy to pull.

    Very effective.

    http://www.addemsairtools.com.au/nai...-counter-sink/
    Ben, a question please. I was just talking to the guy about the Basso, and he says the punch only comes out about 2mm or so. I'm wondering how that would be enough to move the nail far enough through the timber?

    I'd be using it in two ways I think:
    Where the nail has not snapped off I'd punch the pointy end and then pull it with a wrecking bar when the head was sufficiently exposed - this will be the minority of occurrences from what I have seen so far.
    Where the nail is snapped off I want to punch the head so that the nail comes completely out of the board - has it got sufficient grunt for this, given that these snapped nails are, by default, rusted in and are very difficult to move with a normal hammer and punch. It may be that I might punch the pointy end of these nails as well - that will be determined when using it in anger.

    The point being that if it will only punch the head down 2-3mm then it won't push the snapped nail out through the board.

    Addems also make (on request) a punch with more grunt
    http://www.addemsairtools.com.au/spe...countersinker/

    so maybe this might be more appropriate?


    Or, would I be better off with a Nail Kicker V20:
    http://nailkicker.com/

    The videos only show it in action on what appears to be softwood.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  16. #45
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    The Nailkicker looks pretty good.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

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