BOX JOINT BIT HEIGHT PROBLEMS

[Ratbag]

But yeh i should probably get a triton router to suit the table.. or dare i say, ditch all & get a festool...


I don't think a new machine is required, at least for your immediate task.

Power is always a good thing in a Router, but only for really big bits and deep bites. Large diameter bits are really only safely used in variable speed machines.

The Mafell LO65 (2600w) and DeWalt DW626 (2300w) are the most powerful. I once had a 2400w Triton, which I did try for a short time in the series 2000 Table, but didn't really like it. Nevertheless, it (the router) was designed with the Triton Table in mind, and they do integrate well. It's one of only 2 dedicated table routers I know. There's nothing intrinsically wrong with the Triton router, but it didn't feel right to me after years of using a different brand: Triton watts didn't seem to be as powerful as DeWalt ones, despite being a "bigger" motor.

Without simple extra fittings like plunge bars, or expensive & complicated ones like Router Raizers or those American height carriages (which cost you even more plunge depth) it will always be difficult to easily & accurately "plunge" an inverted router in a table. This is where the Triton & Trend T11 Routers excel: an above table height winder.

Others do it too. The Router Raizer requires you to drill & modify a range of routers for the same result. But the Triton & Trend do it best, with the minimum of fuss and no loss of plunge depth.

[OLDBROWNDOG]

Is the Router correctly mounted on the router table/carriage?

Well thats an issue with these tables.. you cant mount it directly to the plate because the damn thing isnt flat.. So you have to mount it on these metal brackets they provide which make it sit about 4mm off the plate.. also because the clamps that hold it on aren't long enough you have another issue holding it tight.


Some of this doesn't seem right. I've only had limited experience with Triton Router Table/Jigsaw Plates, and only ever mounted one router (an Elu). Why do you need to have anything between the router's base & the carriage? My tables were the "type 100 Router/Jigsaw plate & the series 2000. My Elu 177 had a pretty thick baseplate casting (1/2"??), but I can't recall any difficulties in mounting.

From memory (I admit its getting a little hazy these days) once the router is optimally located on the carriage, centred around the hole, you permanently fix four "lugs" around the outside of the router's baseplate casting trough the Triton's carriage. This is to allow you to easily remove & accurately replace the router for handwork.

Extra clips, lugs, whatever are then used for securing the base casting to the carriage in a "quick release" manner. Do they have wingnut tightening or something? The concept is that the Router should be held firmly by the baseplate casting to the Triton carriage, but be easily removed and quickly and accurately replaced.

I think the key point is that the brackets are meant to go around the base of the router: definitely not under. Are you sure your machine is mounted correctly? Unless I'm reading this wrong, which wouldn't be the first time, this could also be part of the problem.

I wish that were the case, but unfortunately the hole in the base plate for the router has a raised edge & Both it & the plastic plate in it sit proud of the underside.. I assume the triton router has a wide enough opening to fit this circular raised area within it & still allow the router to sit flat on the plate, the makita does not.
Then the issue of the clamps themselves mean that if you do not sit the router on those extra baseplates (also to raise it high enough to clear that hole issue i just mentioned) then the clamps will not reach over the router base & hold it onto the plate. They just arent long enough..

[Glennet]

McJings sell long half inch bits JL776 which I've found useful and might solve your problem.

I've also got the collet extension pictured by Hugh (Duke), works well and has the advantage that you don't have to stop the collet turning whilst tightening, it uses a socket head screw at the side. There was some debate that it puts excessive force on the router bearings, but in my view that might be a concern for a heavy user but is theoretical for the hobbyist.

I've made similar, but cruder, jigs and you do have to watch the base thickness.