Oils vs Wax

[2sharp]

Hi all,
I have tried searching for an answer to this, both here and on the web generally but searching 'oil vs wax finish' hasn't given me the answer I was looking for.
Can someone explain, as a bit of a backgrounder, the use of oils vs waxes and when one might be used instead of another, or when both might be used?
I generally only do furniture restoration, which mostly means stripping old shellac off, fixing any structural issues and then re-finishing.
I don't like glossy/wet look finishes and so usually finish with ~4 coats of Feast Watson Floor Sealer (which is essentially tung oil plus some other stuff).
My question is more academic than anything though I'm close to re-finishing an art deco sideboard which was shellacked.

Thanks,

2sharp

[legin]

Hi 2Sharp

I have found that finding your favorite finish is never ending.
Also everones tastes are different.
I am like you and prefer a natural finish.
I use oil finishes mainly. Usually 3 coats of oil then a coat of wax. The wax makes a lot of difference to the final finish.
The wax just seems to make the final finish much smoother. You know the silky smooth feel.
I use Mirotone Mirowax. Give it a try. Neil Scobie put me on to it.

Regards
Legin

[Dengue]

Have a look in the latest Australian Woodworker magazine ( Dec 2014) for an article on the various kinds of finish

[Robson Valley]

I think that it depends on three things:
1. What's the wood?
2. What's your concept? Matte/satin/gloss?
3. Just how waterproof & durable does that finish need to be to prevent major structural and
movement in the wood(s)?

The next dish that I carve will be subject to periodic & sloppy wettings.
I've decided that I can finish the surface in a warm (300F) oven for 3 minutes.
My choice will be pure beeswax. Melted, painted on warmed wood then into the
oven where Charles' Law( gas laws/physics) will suck the melted wax into the wood.
Last, some buffing with a felt wheel as the wax will be solid at room temp and a little friction
from the wheel might smooth things out if need be.

I've done the oven trick approx 100 times already, but with olive oil.

[soundman]

The nature of the finishes are very different.

Wax is wax and in general it does not change in its form or nature.
Its wax in the tin and it is the same after it has been appled and its basic form does not change apart from perhaps some evaporation of solvent.
Its limited in the protection it provides and its durability.

That is good and bad.
It neither bonds permanently with the wood nr does it consolidate the surface.
But it can easily be removed or reappleied.


There are two types of oils and brews refeered to as oils
Non reactive oils are like waxes, but runny.......they do not change and do not bond with the surface.....the mineral oils and a very few of the vegitable oils are non reactive.

Reactive oils react with air and change their basic nature from an oil to a resin, by the process of polermerisation......this causes them to bond with the surface and to some extent consolidate and solidify the surface, providing greater protection......different oils react faster and more effectively than others.

Brews
There are many oils that are combined with something to produce a more durable and effective product.
It may be as simple as adding some metallic driers to the oil to make it react faster as in "boiled linseed oil"...which mostly is not boiled at all.
There are many brews of oils with other finish products such as varnishes and resins.......alkalide varnish, polyeurathne, and shellac have all been blended with one or another oil to give a product to produce a certain job..sometimes there are waxes involved too.

If ya realy want to get ya head around all this......head off the the "Ubeaut" mother site( I am sure you will find a link not far away...yhey do own this foum) and buy yourself a coppy of neil'S polishers hand book....as molly would say..do ya self a favour........you will pay for it in the first stuff up you don't make.

I am sure the mods can provide a link...HERE...to neils book.

cheers

[ubeaut]

Click here for A Polishers Handbook There may be one or two left but not many.

Working on an update and change of printer hope to have it ready to go in late January and with luck have the latest edition on shelf for some time in February.

Cheers - Neil