Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 22
Thread: Temporary anti-rust solutions?
-
8th October 2014, 01:21 PM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 363
Temporary anti-rust solutions?
My biggest issue with my part-time, weekend hobby work is flash rust. I clean up parts nicely and then sometimes get into a situation where a job is tacked up or partially welded and I have to stop for the week and by the next weekend flash rust presents, sometimes in corners where physical brushing is difficult. I live in a salty environment so that doesn't help.
So this thread is to ask if you guys have any particular products that you use or can recommend, where you could flap disc a part clean, then spray or wipe a product on, then in the short to medium term clean it off with acetone or alcohol or heat just before welding?
As an example, maybe things like:
Boeshield T-9?
Cooking spray?
WD-40/CRC/etc?
Candle wax?
Preferably something dirt cheap (Boeshield probably excluded) and that dries quickly to a tacky or dry film or residue (WD-40/CRC probably excluded) and easy to remove (paint e.g. cold galv or primer excluded).
-
8th October 2014 01:21 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
8th October 2014, 01:30 PM #2
Camphor is a pretty good rust preventive. I dissolve ~20g in a liter of deodorized kerosine and apply using a pump sprayer. Not very tenacious but it holds against rain for a week or so.
-
8th October 2014, 01:58 PM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 363
Camphor seems hard to find here in Oz.
How about Tectyl?
Lanolin?
Extra bonus points if it can be tigged over without having to clean off first. E.g. lanolin MSDSs indicate a boiling point in the range of several hundred degrees, so does that mean a thin dried film of it will burn off ahead of the puddle?
-
8th October 2014, 02:46 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Location
- Ballina, NSW
- Posts
- 725
anti-splatter spray?
-
8th October 2014, 02:52 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 363
Yeah, maybe. I was just looking at that. I wonder if "can weld through" means "can tig weld through" or "can stick weld through". I mean, I can stick weld through rust and duragal but I can't tig it.
-
8th October 2014, 04:04 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 769
-
8th October 2014, 05:21 PM #7.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,791
Bone marrow seems to work pretty well. Well at least my bandsaw hasn't rusted since I started cutting up bones for the dogs with it.
-
8th October 2014, 07:50 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 769
-
8th October 2014, 08:01 PM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 363
According to an email from Lanotec, you can (tig) weld right through their products. Well actually it should boil away well in advance of the puddle. Either the general purpose one or the anti-spatter were recommended. I might buy some and give it a shot.
Clean up with their products, or any solvent/degreaser prior to painting or you can hot galv right over it if you were doing that (I never have) and it will boil away similar to how the welding will remove it.
Lanolin/citrus cleaner sounds like a nice, reasonably non-toxic combination for what I want.
-
8th October 2014, 09:00 PM #10Tool addict
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 164
Henkel 253
-
8th October 2014, 09:03 PM #11.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,791
We used to give our dogs 1/2 of one of those big beef shin bones cut in half length wise once a week. The first thing they would do is lick/suck all the marrow out. Then they would be sick or have the trots so thinking about the way it came out of the dogs rear ends, then you could probably call it a "spray"
Now they get shin bone in 4" lengths every couple of days. They have very healthy teeth.
-
8th October 2014, 10:12 PM #12Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 363
The Henkel looks good, but not cheap.
-
8th October 2014, 11:18 PM #13
[QUOTE=Legion;1812487]Camphor seems hard to find here in Oz.
Try eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deer-Camphor...item3ce923ba5c
Camphor is volatile so I think there would be no problem welding through it.
-
9th October 2014, 01:35 AM #14.
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 27,791
Before you guys start spraying camphor around on your MW projects , without even setting them partially on fire, you might want to read the MSDS for it.
It has a recommended safety limit of 3 ppm. (3 mg/m3)
In a 6 x 4 x 3 shed (72 m3) that means if you use 0.2 g of camphor (that's less than a 1/4 of a teaspoon) your shed will be at the safety limit and being volatile it will hang around unless ventilated .
Any more than this and you are over the limit.
-
9th October 2014, 09:59 AM #15
Lanolin has health effects too:
lanolin.pdf
In fact, approximately 6% of the population has lanolin allergy or an allergic reaction to one of three examined lanolin containing products.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23665833
There is some dissent in the community however.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23806164
The MSDS for camphor includes the vapor pressure at 20 C is 0.18 mmHg.
Camphor_MSDS.pdf
The MSDS also gives a Threshold Limit Value of 12 mg/m3. The TLV of a chemical substance is the level to which it is believed a worker can be exposed day after day for a working lifetime without experiencing adverse health effects.
The vapor pressure of camphor corresponds to a concentration of 1472 mg/m3 in air at 20 C, thus you definitely do not want to be in an environment saturated with camphor vapor, even at 20 C.
However, even though many workshops exceed 20 C in the summer it is unlikely that the air will become saturated with camphor vapor as few workshops are hermetically sealed and in the summer many workshops open their doors or windows for cooling.
The commercially available corrosion inhibitors are not exactly mothers-milk either:
A_review_on_recent_patents_in_corrosion_inhibitors.pdf
While we're discussing hazards it bears keeping in mind that welding is not without hazards either. For instance welding can give rise to lung cancer: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24052544, http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23342253. Welding also produces intense ultraviolet light capable of causing burns to body tissues http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20008891. Welding also liberates a witches brew of metal and metal oxide particles as well as oxides of nitrogen and ozone https://www.osha.gov/doc/outreachtra.../weldhlth.html.
Welding also of course is hazardous because of the high temperatures, electricity. If you're using gas shielding you could easily asphyxiate yourself if you insist on welding in an air-tight shed with all of the doors and windows closed.
I always weld with good ventilation, and if I can I weld outdoors. I also use camphor blocks to prevent rust in my tool box drawers and fortunately my workspace is not air-tight.
In other words, everything comes with a hazard or four, use your brain and all available information or become an example of Darwinian selection.
Similar Threads
-
Rust removal Evapo-Rust
By neksmerj in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 7Last Post: 22nd July 2012, 01:26 AM -
what is that anti rust paper called.?
By Nurgle in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 4Last Post: 20th April 2009, 11:42 PM -
electronic anti rust devices for vehicle
By Toolin Around in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 6Last Post: 4th February 2007, 06:55 PM