I know this thread has a bit of age to it now. but here are some things I have learned.

I use disposable plastic measuring cups to mix my epoxy and have gone off pumps, because that can airate the material among other issues
The measuring cups in conjunction with either icecream sticks or tounge dipressors allow me to scrape the sides and work in a more folding motion than sturing.....but ya still get bubbles.

( let the epoxy dry in the cups and it will come out by flexing the cup..reuse many times.)

using slower hardener allows time for the bubbles to come up.

realise that some of the bubbles will be air comming out of the wood, displaced by the incomming epoxy..if ya filling knots and cracks those bubbles can be quite large.

If ya using it as a surface coating.....you may get heaps of bubbles comming out of the surface.

one trick with both epoxy and clear finishes is to put the workpiece in the sun ( or under a lamp) and get it good and warm.....bring it into the cool and get the epoxy on it straight away.....the warm surface will help the epoxy flow and the air in the wood will begin to contract as it cools.

I've not had great sucess with heating the epoxy, as it tends to go off faster.....heating the job is better.

Oh and watch your temperature and humidity..extreemes of either are not helpfull.

If you have played with the clear pouring epoxies, they can be realy narky about temp & humidity.

If using a torch to raise bubbles it not the heat you are looking for..its the co2......a drinking straw works just as well.......just take a deep breath away from the epoxy...smooth even blow on the surface raises the bubbles...not sure why it works but it does.

On those deep cracks, two applications can be the go.....the first one gets in and seals up the voids and the second does the filling.



cheers