Timber burn on bench saw

[skara]

Gday guys,

As I've stated in another post I own a little Ryobi play toy that doubles as a bench saw and I've been trying to get it do an ok job until I find a fairly good replacement one, on that if anyone in WA is looking to sell one or know of one up for sale let me know. The problem I was hoping a few of the more experienced guys might be able to help with is in relation to timber burn when feeding material through. Things I have tried so far.

-Calibrated the distance (Using callipers) between the same tooth back and front measuring off the fence (both factory and hard clamped straight edge)
-Adjusted the feed speeds, faster or slower makes no difference
-cleaned the blade

only thing I haven't tried is a new blade tho I am not keen on this as I'm trying to find a new saw and don't want to get one that is not compatible with the new one. The blade on it is the factory one however it has done minimal cutting and of that 99% of it has been pine.

Any other suggestions?

Damien

[NCArcher]

I presume it is a TCT blade. Try adjusting the fence so the exit end is 1/2 mm further away from the blade than the entry end. Keep the feed rate constant. Don't stop and start half way through the cut.

[aldav]

Are you getting burn ripping or crosscutting or both? Assume you're ripping or cutting sheet material as you're using the fence as a guide. Is the saw fitted with a riving knife or alternative method to keep the cut open? What diameter is the blade and how many teeth? Too many possibilities without more information.

[FenceFurniture]

I used to get burn from my drop saw on some timbers with a 60 tooth 10" blade. Put an 80 tooth on, slowed the revs right down, no more burn.

[Bob38S]

As the above have said.

Also, you say you have cut a lot of pine - check that the blade is clean ie free of resin build up on the teeth and gullets. Dirty blades are a factor in timber burning - the same applies to router bits.