Stanley Bailey #5 1/2 Plane BROKEN HANDLE

[Moth Woodworks]

Can someone please advise as to what glue would work to fix a cracked plastic handle on the above mentioned 30 year old plane? I have contacted Stanley Australia via phone and email numerous times but cannot get an answer. They cannot even tell me if a replacement handle is available. Thank you in advance. I have used CA glue and Tarzan grip to no avail.

[Colin62]

I'd look at making a new one out of wood if I were you. To, if you don't want to hassle, buying one.

[Clinton1]

http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/planekits.html

[The Bleeder]

You could try 'E(vil)bay' as there is some on there or try this mob http://www.toolexchange.com.au/ may be a bit overpriced.

[scuzyboy]

I used tekniglue from carbatec 6 yrs and handle still going strong

[gms002a]

I'd make one from wood - check the links below.


Tote Template for Stanley #5 from LeeValley:

Tote.PDF


http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com...ch-plane-tote/

https://newbritainboy.wordpress.com/...e-tote-part-1/


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIawu0oLkbk

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=s...w=1120&bih=617


You can do it without band saw too. It's not hard.

Good luck

[IanW]

I used tekniglue from carbatec 6 yrs and handle still going strong

I was about to say that no glue will stick a plastic handle reliably, but there you go. Worth a try if you have some.

Bleeder, just looked at the Tool Exch page of spares. The genuine article ain't cheap, that's for sure, but I suppose if you were restoring a nice pre-WW2 plane you might be prepared to cough up that much for the real deal. For a user, the unfinished handle at $25 is a more attractive proposition, though I can't tell from the pic if it's been drilled or not. If it hasn't been drilled, it might be a bit tricky for someone with limited gear and/or handle-making skills. The partial shaping will make accurate marking-out more difficult. Marking out & drilling the stud hole(s) is my biggest challenge in tote-making, I reckon, & if you don't get them right, you could end up with a wonky handle at best, or worse, an expensive scrap of kindling. Once you've got the tote fitted nicely, the rest is pretty straightforward (but slow & tedious, particularly on your first half-dozen! ) If you use some layout lines as a guide and take your time, it should turn out better than a bought one - I've illustrated the method I use to get the curves right & keep them symmetrical here . It's not a Bailey type tote, but the principles are the same....

Cheers,

[Wood Collector]

You could try a glue specifically designed for gluing plastics.

[The Bleeder]

I was about to say that no glue will stick a plastic handle reliably, but there you go. Worth a try if you have some.

Bleeder, just looked at the Tool Exch page of spares. The genuine article ain't cheap, that's for sure, but I suppose if you were restoring a nice pre-WW2 plane you might be prepared to cough up that much for the real deal. For a user, the unfinished handle at $25 is a more attractive proposition, though I can't tell from the pic if it's been drilled or not. If it hasn't been drilled, it might be a bit tricky for someone with limited gear and/or handle-making skills. The partial shaping will make accurate marking-out more difficult. Marking out & drilling the stud hole(s) is my biggest challenge in tote-making, I reckon, & if you don't get them right, you could end up with a wonky handle at best, or worse, an expensive scrap of kindling. Once you've got the tote fitted nicely, the rest is pretty straightforward (but slow & tedious, particularly on your first half-dozen! ) If you use some layout lines as a guide and take your time, it should turn out better than a bought one - I've illustrated the method I use to get the curves right & keep them symmetrical here . It's not a Bailey type tote, but the principles are the same....

Cheers,

Yes Ian your not wrong on their prices for parts.

Moth Woodworks,

Is it a plastic handle you want or a wooden one. If it's plastic I may have one in the bone yard for one.

Let me know and I'll post it to you.

[Vann]

http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/planekits.html

Unfortunately stanleytoolparts has gone to the dogs. It appears to have been a Stanley/Black & Decker site. But just about everything has been transferred to a Stanley/Bostitch site that only sell to the USA (and at higher prices). However you should be able to point Stanley Australia in the right direction.

But making a new handle out of wood, should be within the capability of most woodworkers - even if the first few attempts need improvement (says he who has been on the verge of trying it for a couple of years ).

Good luck.

Cheers, Vann.

[steamjunkprops]

Depending on what type of plastic it is will vary the type of glue.

I would try using dichloromethane. You can pick up small bottles of it from most hobby shops. It is sold as a solvent glue for styrene/plastic models.
The method for using the glue is to clamp the part together and run some solvent on a brush around the crack allowing the solvent to wick in.

If this glue doesn't work, then the plastic may be something like a polypropylene or polyethylene which do not take any glues well.

[Moth Woodworks]

Thanks everyone for your thoughts, advice and offers. Wow it was so hard to re find this post

[pmcgee]

At the top of the page - at least when using a "real" computer - there is "Quick Links"

and one of the options is "Subscribed Threads". You will be subscribed to any thread you comment in, and you can use "Thread Tools" in any thread to subscribe to it so you can keep track of it.

I was about 3 or 4 months at a loss, trying to keep up with threads I had posted in, at the beginning before I was told that tip.


Cheers,
Paul