Disston D8 crosscut 11 TPI A practical Choice?

[PhilMurray]

I'm looking at purchasing a vintage Disston D8 Crosscut saw. The saw I'm interested in is 11TPI. I have a 14TPI tenon saw, a 10TPI Disston rip saw and a dovetail saw but am looking for a crosscut saw for longer/thicker cross cuts. The saw will be used for furniture rather than carpentry. I have a Stanley Fat Max for that type of work. I'd be grateful if forum members with 11TPI crosscut saws could provide their views on the practicality of saws with this TPI. I'd also be grateful if someone could recommend a good saw doctor in Perth. I'm looking for someone who has a good knowledge of hand saw sharpening. regards Phil.

[hiroller]

11TPI sounds a good place to start.
There's a good saw sharpener at your place.
Just watch this video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=u-_MF2Mnxwc

[PhilMurray]

11TPI sounds a good place to start.
There's a good saw sharpener at your place.
Just watch this video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=u-_MF2Mnxwc

Thanks very informative video. But I'd be concerned about damaging a trusty old saw though will think seriously about learning to sharpen and set my saws.regardsPhil

[hiroller]

For less than the price of a professional saw sharpening you could pick up a handful of cheap saws off Gumtree to practise on.
Saw the saw file thread pinned to the top of this section for some saw file recommendations.

There also good tips on sharpening here in the threads on making saws such as this one:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f152/making-a-saw-183708
There are also good tips in this section:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f278

[IanW]

Phil, are you talking about a 'full-size' saw (i.e. 24" & up), or is it a D8 panel saw (~20" & shorter)? I ask because 11tpi (or 12 ppi if you prefer that system) is relatively fine for a full-size saw. It will be happy enough cutting stock of 25mm or thinner, but a bit slow, perhaps, on thicker stuff. I prefer something between 8 & 10 tpi for a full-size crosscut, myself, because it has plenty of bite & bigger gullets to carry the sawdust. However, it's a matter of personal choice, and what you expect from a saw, I guess.

And sharpening saws does take a while to get really good at, but the dwindling number of people who can do a proper job means you may be forced to do some or eventually all of it yourself. It's not too hard to give a saw a couple of light touch-ups between professional sharpens. If you are reasonably careful, you can keep the teeth even, & keep the saw cutting sweetly, by giving it two or three light touch-ups after a major reset & sharpen. If it starts to get a bit jagged & rough, then take it to a professional for the serious work. After a few successful light touch-ups, you may be confident enough to try a full set & sharpen.

Cheers,

[Heavansabove]

Phil, are you talking about a 'full-size' saw (i.e. 24" & up), or is it a D8 panel saw (~20" & shorter)? I ask because 11tpi (or 12 ppi if you prefer that system) is relatively fine for a full-size saw. It will be happy enough cutting stock of 25mm or thinner, but a bit slow, perhaps, on thicker stuff. I prefer something between 8 & 10 tpi for a full-size crosscut, myself, because it has plenty of bite & bigger gullets to carry the sawdust. However, it's a matter of personal choice, and what you expect from a saw, I guess.

I agree with Ian, if you are looking at handsaws...

Rip 3.5-5 ppi for rapid, rough work - 28"
Half Rip 6-7ppi - 26"
A shorter rip saw - 18 to 24" can be handy at circa 8-10 ppi

Crosscut 7-8 ppi - 26"
Panel Xcut 9-10 ppi - 20 to 24"

For any higher ppi you are really looking at a backsaw. A 16 to 18" Tenon is usually 10-12 ppi

Cheers
Peter

[PhilMurray]

Phil, are you talking about a 'full-size' saw (i.e. 24" & up), or is it a D8 panel saw (~20" & shorter)? I ask because 11tpi (or 12 ppi if you prefer that system) is relatively fine for a full-size saw. It will be happy enough cutting stock of 25mm or thinner, but a bit slow, perhaps, on thicker stuff. I prefer something between 8 & 10 tpi for a full-size crosscut, myself, because it has plenty of bite & bigger gullets to carry the sawdust. However, it's a matter of personal choice, and what you expect from a saw, I guess.

And sharpening saws does take a while to get really good at, but the dwindling number of people who can do a proper job means you may be forced to do some or eventually all of it yourself. It's not too hard to give a saw a couple of light touch-ups between professional sharpens. If you are reasonably careful, you can keep the teeth even, & keep the saw cutting sweetly, by giving it two or three light touch-ups after a major reset & sharpen. If it starts to get a bit jagged & rough, then take it to a professional for the serious work. After a few successful light touch-ups, you may be confident enough to try a full set & sharpen.

Cheers,

I'm after a full size saw (24") and was concerned that a finer point saw might have issues. I'll take your advice and go for 8TPI.

regards Phil

[pmcgee]

Hi Phil.

It has been suggested that I am a bit of an accumulator of saws ... although I have no idea where anyone got that impression.
From my perspective, the finer pitches of saws are 10ppi and 12ppi.
11ppi too of course, but it is much rarer in my experience.

If the saw isn't expensive (say under $20), buy it. You can probably make at least that much selling it.

Homesy and I formed a bit of a self-educating, blind-leading the blind, pact a little while ago.
I reckon ripsaw sharpening should be regarded like chisel sharpening ... (almost) no real trouble and accessible to everyone.
We haven't yet got together to work through xcut sharpening ... although Paul might have had a go himself(??)
BobL is around too, and he has done both already years ago I'm pretty sure.

So, we could get together at some stage to do something about that, finally.

There is an big auction of green wood at Harvey on saturday too, if you're interested.

Please get in touch.
Cheers,
Paul
(paulmcgee1969 @ gmail.com)

[PhilMurray]

Hi Phil.

It has been suggested that I am a bit of an accumulator of saws ... although I have no idea where anyone got that impression.
From my perspective, the finer pitches of saws are 10ppi and 12ppi.
11ppi too of course, but it is much rarer in my experience.

If the saw isn't expensive (say under $20), buy it. You can probably make at least that much selling it.

Homesy and I formed a bit of a self-educating, blind-leading the blind, pact a little while ago.
I reckon ripsaw sharpening should be regarded like chisel sharpening ... (almost) no real trouble and accessible to everyone.
We haven't yet got together to work through xcut sharpening ... although Paul might have had a go himself(??)
BobL is around too, and he has done both already years ago I'm pretty sure.

So, we could get together at some stage to do something about that, finally.

There is an big auction of green wood at Harvey on saturday too, if you're interested.

Please get in touch.
Cheers,
Paul
(paulmcgee1969 @ gmail.com)

I'm definitely interested in sharpening my saws though despite advanced years I'm still a beginner woodworker. I ended up going with a nice old 20 inch 10TPI Disston cross cut. You may have seen the Paul Sellars You tube video on hand saw sharpening where he creates a progressive rip pattern and advocates this as an all purpose approach to sharpening. The simplicity appeals and I'm interested in what other people here think about this approach? But I'm thinking there might be more to re-sharpening a cross cut pattern to a rip pattern than is shown in the video. I'm going to order some saw files from Lie Nielson and have a go - but will try and mimick the existing bevel angle on the saw. I'll also order a saw set and have a go with that. Regards Phil