Turned boxes - 50 designs

[Oldgreybeard]

The last 5 days have been very productive with another 5 boxes completed. A few lessons learnt and one box causing a great deal of frustration.

Box 6 - Spherical box

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I have never really turned a sphere before and this was quite a challenge - particularly as I don't have any sort of jig for this purpose. The image above is attempt #10 The first 6 attempts were smaller versions for drawer pulls in the shed - now have 6 "elliptical" shaped knobs ranging from the shape of a grape, egg, and a couple roughly round. At that point I went to the internet and decided that the method of shaping a hexagonal and the dividing each facet to produce 16 sides, which could then be blended to form a sphere, looked the best option. After a couple of attempts, I was confident enough to try something other than Radiata Pine.

I am happy with this attempt - not perfect, but IMO reasonably successful.

Wood: Liquid Amber.
Finish: 180, 240, 320, 400 grit, EEE, Ultrashine liquid and finally Ubeat Traditional Wax.
Design: Chris Stotts design

Box 7 -Vase Box

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This was an enjoyable box to turn and I will do a scaled up version as a vase in the future.

Wood: Unkown - It was in a shoe box of offcuts which my sister-in-law bought back from Tasmania. My first thought was Huon Pine, but it is not the same as the Huon Pine from the Woodsmith which is used in Box 10.

Can anyone identify it?
Finish: 180, 240, 320, 400 grit, EEE, Ultrashine liquid and finally Ubeat Traditional Wax.
Design: Chris Stotts design

Box 8 - Beaded-lid box

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Some additional practice with turning lids.The first 7 boxes all had the lid fitting into a rebate in the box. This time the lid fitted over a spigot (tenon) which is turned on the top of the box. First attempt was a very sloppy fit, second a "catch" demolished the tenon, third time I hollowed right through the top of the lid. Apart from the involuntary twitch which destroyed the tenon, the main problem was confusing the internal and external measurements - something I had better sort out well and truly before I attempt threaded lids!!

Wood: Cypress Pine.
Finish: 180, 240, 320, 400 grit, EEE, Ultrashine liquid and finally Ubeat Traditional Wax.
Design: Chris Stotts design

Box 9 - Chris called this a Zebrano Box (because it was made from the wood.) Perhaps I should call this the Oak Box

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I changed the original design to inclde a small finial in contrasting wood to replace the "Draw-pull" knob which Chris had used 3 of the past 4 boxes. I think it better suits the taller, slender design of this box.Tthe only problem I had was in hollowing the narrow bottom of the box - the external dimension is 18 mm diameter. I am still waiting for the 12mm Carbide cutters I order from USA which will be attached to my new tool steel shafts.

Wood: English Oak from local tree feller.
Finish: 180, 240, 320, 400 grit, EEE, Ultrashine liquid and finally Ubeat Traditional Wax.
Design: Variation of Chris Stotts design for Box 9

Box 10 - Yew Box ( Huon Pine Box)

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This is a variation suggested by Chris in his book. It was fun to make, and for a change everything went right the first time. The box was completed in just over 1 hour - I am happy with that!

Wood: Huon Pine and River Red Gum .
Finish: 180, 240, 320, 400 grit, EEE, Ultrashine liquid and finally Ubeat Traditional Wax.
Design: Chris Stotts design

Enjoy,
Bob

[Oldgreybeard]

Box 11 - Elegant box

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This is as per the book.

Wood: Red Gum
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 12 - Square-lidded box
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A couple of embellishments - 1 intentional and 1 involuntary movement.
Chris did not include the small finial, but I could not help myself. It just seemed perfect for this box: what do you think?
The other on the underneath of the lid is indicative of the "design opportunities" resulting from involuntary twitches. This time the 'spiral effect', was left (for no good reason other than my wife thought it looked "cool"). On the positive side I am now becoming more aware of my actions which lead to the involuntary movement. The main culprit is tilting my head backwards and to the right. Unfortunately that is the position I frequently put my head in when working or hollowing wood grain I would appreciate any suggestions to changing my technique which would not include tilting the head backwards - such as when looking into the end of a hollow form.

Wood: Cypress Pine
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott plus embellishments above.

Box 13 - Pill box

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This is much smaller than Chris's desgn which was 34 mm high. A pill box was originally designed to be carried in a ladies handbag, so to me 34 mm was too high. I made my first attempt according to Chris's measurements and the decided to reduce the hieght of the bottom section by 10mm.
The first problem was that the proportions where then upside down - top 66% and bottom 33% of the hieght. To offset this I added a small 'V' groove on the side of the lid at approximately half the total height of the box. I think the result is OK.

I should have stopped there, but decided to add some decoration to the inside of the side which was held in a jamb chuck. The fit was not as tight as it should have been and a slightly too heavy cut resulted in a mess. Question - should I continue with the idea of adding detail to the inside of the lid, given that there is chatter work on the top? ( I will cut another tighter jamb chuck and recut the inside of the lid - there is enough wood to do so)

Wood: Liquid amber
Finish: Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott - Chatterwork is one of Chris's suggested variations.

Box 14 - Teardrop box

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This is as per the book.
Wood: Cypress Pine
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 15 - Ginger Jar

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This is the largest box sofar - 127 mm tall and 95 mm at the largest diameter and required hollowing the base section to a depth of 101 mm. I found this to be about the limit of my ability and / or equipment (probably mainly the former). I am looking at building a version of Capt. Eddie's steel snake. Has anyone done this or had any experience with it or similar products?

Other than the time it took to hollow out the base taking very light cuts, there was no problems. And I couldn't resist a small ball to finish off the lid

Wood: Red Gum
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Enjoy

Bob

[Christos]

I like the way the tear drop box has come out. Looks like it was just about to drop.

[smiife]

Hi bob,
They look good mate, when hollowing can you
get to the other side of your lathe and hollow from there!
It might help save you from tilting your head?

[Oldgreybeard]

Hi bob,
They look good mate, when hollowing can you
get to the other side of your lathe and hollow from there!
It might help save you from tilting your head?

Such a simple solution - it just might work. There is plenty of room behind the lathe, so will give it a go. Thanks smiife.
Bob

[Oldgreybeard]

Hi bob,
They look good mate, when hollowing can you
get to the other side of your lathe and hollow from there!
It might help save you from tilting your head?

I have just been out to the shed and standing at the back of the lathe saves bending the neck to the right, but I found it uncomfortable / almost impossible to hold the tool in the correct position for hollowing.


However all is not lost - the Tecknatool has a swivel head and swinging it 22.5 degrees to the left pretty much achieves the same effect and stilll allows me to turn in the normal position. I have a spare banjo, so may be able to adapt Capt Eddie's Steel Snake to work with the head in this position.

Thanks again for the tip

Bob

[Oldgreybeard]

Another 5 boxes completed this week.

Box 16 - Collectors Box

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This is as per Chris Stott's instructions.

Wood: Jarrah
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 17 - Mosque box


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This is as per Chris Stott's instructions.

Wood: Cypress Pine
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 18 - Egg box

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Variation based on Chris's design. Chris design the egg box with the fat end as the lid. It looks somewhat upside down now that I added a pedestal.

This is as per Chris Stott's instructions.

Wood: Cypress pine
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Original Design: Chris Stott

Box 19 - Ball box

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This is as per Chris Stott's instructions. I have added a base for display purposes

Wood: Liquid amber - base Cypress pine
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 20 - Yew Saucer box

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I have scaled down Chris's design to approximately 75% . The original design was 168mm at the widest point. My version is 125mm.
I also changed the finial to one which I has in my 'spare parts' collection - the reason will become clear in the next image.

This is as per Chris Stott's instructions.

Wood: Radiata Pine
Finish: 150, 240, 400 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax (exterior hand sanded and polished)
Original design: Chris Stott

No turning for a few days

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I was just about to start sanding the exterior of the saucer box when strange noises started in the lathe head. This was followed within seconds by major vibrations.

My brother-in-law who is an engineer at Science Works in Melbourne assisted in the teardown and fault finding on Saturday. Not that it was hard to ascertain the problem - the rear bearing for the headstock spindle had almost seized. It can be turned by hand but will not rotate freely.

I will not know until tomorrow how long it will take to get the spindle bearings replaced - unfortunately we don't have access to a suitable press. Hopefully, I will get it rebult and operational so that I can complete another 5 boxes before Christmas - that will take me to the half way point.

Bob

[Christos]

Really good to see the next lot of boxes made.

The egg box does look upside down. I am tending to favour the saucer out of this lot.

[Oldgreybeard]

Bearings in the lathe were replaced on Monday morning, so didn't loose much shed time.

Box 21 - Footed box
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This was not as difficult as I expected. Following Chris's suggestion the spigot on the botton of the vessel is converted to a ring. I then used a coping saw to cut away most of the ring between the feet. A pnuematic die grinder and a small sanding disc on the dremel completed the job. Unfortunately there are quite a few splits which opened up overnight after I finished it.

Wood: Baltic Pine? This was given to me by a builder working on a heritage site.
Finish: 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 22 - Mushroom box
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Found these bits in the offcut box and reminded me of an old field mushroom almost at the point of decay. The lid is not quite as rounded on the top as Chris's design, but the size of the offcut dictated the shape.

Wood: Stem - English Oak, Lid spalted Paper bark (Maleleuca)
Finish:240, 320, 400, grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 23 - Apple Box
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The grain pattern of the lid and the base match pretty well considering this is the 3rd attempt at the lid. First time a catch almost cut completely through the side of the lid and on the second attempt, I got the measurements wrong and cut through the lid when cutting the depression for the stem. Oh well, all good practice.

Wood: English Oak
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 24 - Saturn box
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I have reused the display stand from last week to keep the box in position for photographing. I am still finding turning spherical shapes challenging, particularly when cutting from right - left. The base section with the disc attached is noticeably 'flatter' than the lid section - particularly when they are next to each other as in the third image. However, I can see improvement - just need more practice.

Wood: River Red Gum
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 25 - Japanese lantern box
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This is as per Chris's instructions and was a fun box to turn. it was also the first box in this series where we had to cope with cutting air.

Wood: Cypress Pine
Finish: 150, 240, 320, 400, 600 grit, EEE, Shellawax liquid, Ubeaut Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

I don't know whether I will get any more done before Christmas. If not, I wish you all a Happy Christmas.


Bob

[Sturdee]

Great work Bob, love seeing your journey as I'm aware of what you have to do.

I haven't been turning for a while now, as I'm feeling a lot better and have more energy to do some urgent and needed work around the house. Stuff that I should have done a while back but had no energy or inclination to do whilst it was cold and wet during the winter.

I fixed the front windows, nearly finished converting the BBQ area to an proper outdoor cooking, eating and spa area and lining the old shed to make a proper gym area for my daughter, then I'll have to fix the back steps before I can get back to turning. So you may finish before me.

Peter.

[Hermit]

I blinked, and you're already half-way through the book. You're doing a top job, Bob. I'm really impressed with the results.
Keep up the good work.

[Oldgreybeard]

Week 7 and now completed 35 boxes.

Box # 26 - Pagoda box
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The only change from Chris's design was to reduce the thickness of the top square section. Chris specified 7mm, but this looked too heavy so I reduced it to 4 mm with a resultant increase in the heght of the 'dome'.

103mm, Width of square sections: 72mm
Wood: Cypress pine
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, sprayed 3 coats automotive acrylic lacquer clearcoat.
Design: Chris Stott

Box # 27 - Bird-box ornament
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76 mm Major diameter: 22mm
Wood: Cypress pine
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, EEE, Ubeat Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott






Box # 28 - Bird box


50designs028a.jpg 140mm Major diameter: 65mm
Wood: Cypress pine
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, EEE, Ubeat Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott







Box # 29 - Finial Egg box

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130mm Major diameter: 50mm
Wood: Cypress pine, Finial: River red gum
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, EEE, Ubeat Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box # 30 - Tipsy box

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Because of the shape of the lid, the fit is slightly loose. When made as per Chris's design, it consistently rolled over and the lid came off. My version has a small pedestal to overcome this problem.

75 mm Major diameter: 65mm Lid diameter: 50mm
Wood: Base - ?Baltic pine, Lid - Cypress pine
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, EEE, Ubeat Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box # 31 - Trinket box

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Red gum base has been turned cross grain to bring out figure in the piece.

150 mm (Finial 85 mm), Major diameter: body - 95mm, finial - 16mm
Wood: Base - River Red Gum, Lid - Huon Pine, Finial - Ebony
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, EEE, Ubeat Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box 32 - Seattle Tower box

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Chris had suggested Ebony for the finial which I did not have. I had intended to stain and lacquer the red gum finial, but I think the reg gum looks better.

205mm (Finial 80mm), Major diameter: Body - 95mm, Finial - 15mm
Wood: Base- ?Baltic pine, Body - River red gum, Lid - Cypress Pine, Finial - River red gumm
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, EEE, Ubeat Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box # 33 - UFO box

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75mm , Major diameter: 130mm
Wood: Base -Silky oak, Lid - English oak
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, EEE, Ubeat Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box # 34 - Galaxy box

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100 mm (Finial 70mm), Major diameter: body - 120 mm finial - 12mm
Wood: Spalted liquid amber, Finial - huon pine
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, EEE, Ubeat Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Box # 35 - Clam box

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26 mm, Major diameter: 72mm
Wood: Base - River Red Gum
Finish: Sanded to 600 grit, EEE, Ubeat Tradition wax
Design: Chris Stott

Enjoy. C&C welcomed.

Bob

[chuck1]

Wow! That's alot of boxes! Very well done!

[Hermit]

Very nice work, Bob.

Do you dream about boxes at night? (I've been dreaming finials this week.)

You're doing a top job. I think you did the right thing reducing the lid of the Pagoda Box to 4mm.

I think I like the 'Tipsy' boxes best out of this batch. Partly the shape, partly the timber. The grain on the lids really brings them to life.

Keep up the good work, only 15 to go.

Edit: I was reading one of tea lady's old threads earlier and saw a reference to using a bit of an old thong to help with sanding the inside of small boxes. Sounds like a great idea, but I'll bet it confused overseas members.

[Oldgreybeard]

Very nice work, Bob. Thanks to you and Chuck1 for your kind comments.

Do you dream about boxes at night? (I've been dreaming finials this week.) No, but I generally wake about 5.00am and spend an hour thinking about the next box and how to do it.

You're doing a top job. I think you did the right thing reducing the lid of the Pagoda Box to 4mm.

I think I like the 'Tipsy' boxes best out of this batch. Partly the shape, partly the timber. The grain on the lids really brings them to life.
I must be a bad judge - it is my least favourite. I would have thought you might have enjoyed the finial on the Seattle Tower.

Keep up the good work, only 15 to go. Actually it is only 14 now - did another one today, but you have to wait until next week to see the next 5.

Edit: I was reading one of tea lady's old threads earlier and saw a reference to using a bit of an old thong to help with sanding the inside of small boxes.Yes I saw that also but find it too stiff for such small boxes. I have a small block of soft foam which i find more pliable and able to fit into boxes of this size. Sounds like a great idea, but I'll bet it confused overseas members.

Bob