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  1. #46
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    It surprises me how fast you guys build your models. The frames look great Keith what next the cross members to complete the chassis.

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  3. #47
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    Apr 2013
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    Hi All,

    Derek, I think I am slow. I was just about to type that it has taken me 2 days to make the clevis and connect it to the leaf spring. It is pretty finicky work and it is important to get things straight so they align well and look OK. I have used larger spiral nails, cut down as rivets to secure the clevis to the leaf spring. These rivets are araldited in on both sides so it has a domed head on both sides so it looks like a hot formed rivet.
    I have used 5mm steel round as my adjustment shaft with nuts on both ends (as shown in the photo). I have not connected the leaf springs to the chasis (they are just sitting there in the photo). They will be secured near the end of the build as they would be in the way now. I had to make them this early so I could drill the chasis sides more easily. After this the next step will be making and fitting the cross members to finish off the main body chasis. This will be a big build. I will be building all con rods, etc to connect to the steam cylinders under the loco. Even though they won't be generally seen, I will be building as close to original as I can get. Would like to have this loco completed by November next year.

    Regards

    Keith


    clevis and pin.jpgleaf springs in situ.jpg

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    St. Helens Tasmania
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    Looking fantastic mate.
    The chassis has a very realistic appearance to it.

    Cheers
    Trev.

  5. #49
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    Apr 2013
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    Hi,

    Today was some design work on the wheels. Making up blanks for inner and outer rim. (out of pine). I cut the rough sections using jigsaw and bandsaw. I will make the spokes on the inner blanks and then glue them to the outer machined blanks. This will allow me to use either scroll saw or band saw to cut out the spoked sections. Dallas (Treecycle) has kindly offered to machine the roughly cut inner and outers to my drawing dimensions in his wood lathe. He is an excellent turner with a good lathe. (Thanks mate). I generally turn in my metal turning lathe, but it is not up to what I want to do in this project.
    I have also attached a photo of the rough sawn blanks beneath the side of the chasis to give an idea of size. The drive wheels are 200mm diameter.

    Regards

    Keith

    Wheel blanks.jpgWheel drawings.jpg

  6. #50
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    Apr 2013
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    Hello,

    Today was pretty busy. No grandson today, he is sick. So in the shed all day.
    Was still not happy with the look of the chasis. I added extra rivets along the entire length. I think it looks better.
    I wanted to do a trial and learn how my wheels were going to come up. I made up a drawing of the 18 spoke wheel and used this as a template. These are not going to be the wheels I worked on today, Treecycle is going to turn up the blanks. I cut out the spokes and learnt a valuable lesson - don't use the spokes to press into the bandsaw blade, they will break off (you can see in the photo with the red pointer). I then made up a sample outer rim and then fitted the inner to the outer. Very happy with the outcome. Key learning tip is to do trial work prior to doing the real thing !
    I also assembled the chasis. I made up "angle iron" out of pine to strengthen the joints at the far end (don't know whether it is too clear in the photo). Also riveted the angles to the main frame with araldite. Extra cross member need to be fitted but these will be done when I have fabricated the 2 steam cylinders to give correct positioning etc.

    Regards

    Keith
    Chasis extra rivets.jpgWheel trial1.jpgWheel trial 2.jpgWheel trial3.jpgWheel trial4.jpgchasis part assembled.jpg

  7. #51
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    Mar 2013
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    More great work mate.
    The rivets look fantastic as well

    Cheers
    Trev.

  8. #52
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    That is really looking great Keith the chassis especially. The test wheel looks good shame about losing a spoke.

  9. #53
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    Apr 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dalboy View Post
    That is really looking great Keith the chassis especially. The test wheel looks good shame about losing a spoke.

    Derek,

    No problem, it was only a trial, not the real deal. I am glad it happened. It showed me what I need to be careful of when I am actually doing the locomotive wheels.
    Thanks for your comments. I do like how the chasis is coming up. Hope the weather improves, although you might have a white Christmas and can play in the snow !

    Take it easy

    Regards

    Keith

  10. #54
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    You're doing famously Keith especially for a bloke who was banged up a month ago....
    Thank you for all the extra photos and detailed notes....much appreciated.
    Cheers, Peter

  11. #55
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  12. #56
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    Apr 2013
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    Torquay
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    Hello,

    Joshua is well and we have him for today and tonight. Limited time in the shed today. However, yesterday and today I have been working on the underchasis of the locomotive. I made up and fitted the motion plate. This is the 2 slotted plate that acts as a guide for the connecting rods into the main steam cylinders. Part of making this is the 2 side plates which actually support the twin steam cylinder. The motion plate is set at a 5 degree angle so the main drive wheel crankshaft and conrod don't interfere with the front drive wheel shaft.
    I have made up wooden "angle iron" at the joins of the motion plate and side plates and also "riveted" them into position. This is probably an overkill as none of this will be seen when the locomotive is complete. It will all be hidden inside. But I want to do it. I have again painted all the underchasis in "domino'" acrylic and have dabbed it on to make it look mottled and like cast iron. Probably not the prettiest paint job but I think it looks as near as I can get to looking like "cast iron".
    Next step will probably be one of the bigger challenges - making the twin steam cylinder.

    Regards

    Keith

    underchasis.jpgmotion plate.jpg

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    After spending time looking under steam locomotives, and reading heritage railway magazines, it all makes sense to have the cylinders at an angle for clearance.
    There are few chances to watch a railway engine being constructed from scratch, but you seem to do an excellent job with your narration, work and images for us all to share.
    Well done.

  14. #58
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    Been a bit slack on this Keith!! Glad I dropped in again!!!

    Great work!!!

  15. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by artme View Post
    Been a bit slack on this Keith!! Glad I dropped in again!!!

    Great work!!!
    Thanks Arthur for your comments - really appreciated. I am a bit disappointed with some of the workmanship of the underchasis. It won't be seen in the finished loco, but still I am aware of it. However I am not going to dismantle what I have done. Making up the cylinder, steam exhaust and lubricator system under the locomotive. The Loco will need to be turned upside down to view these mechanicals when complete.

    Generally happy though, I think the finished loco (a long way off) will look pretty good.

    PS been trialing gold leaf on some mock components which comes up really good (never used gold leaf before)

    Regards

    Keith

  16. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith_1 View Post
    I am a bit disappointed with some of the workmanship of the underchasis. It won't be seen in the finished loco, but still I am aware of it.
    There the words of a man who's going to build something truly wonderful.
    Keep up the great work mate.

    Cheers
    Trev.

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