LMR 57 Lion (Titfield Thunderbolt)

[Keith_1]

You'll be back at your beloved lawn bowls too soon Keith and then you'll be torn.... the shed or the bowls???? Cheers, Peter

Peter,

Yes 17th January is when I am back at pennant hopefully. Practice a week before - hard hit out. Physio tomorrow - he is quite happy. I love bowls, shed, fishing, family, ute, hard to balance all - as I said - life is good. Great to be here.

Thanks Crowie.

Keith

[Keith_1]

Hi,

Much better day in the shed today. Yesterday helping the son gave time to regroup.

Machined up a new front drive wheel shaft. The good thing about the other day is that I can utilize the shaft I cut in half to make my crankshaft. Lucky it didn't get out in the bin on the street !!!

Modified the motion plate support so I can now fit the shaft and wheels by only taking out the cylinder piston shafts. The axle on the front wheels must sit above the piston shafts. The crankshaft (Second Drive Wheels) connecting rod must go beneath the front wheel axle so they don't foul. It will become clearer as I progress. Haven't explained it very well.

Photos show where the front wheels and axle sits in relation to pistons and lubricator actuator. (Ignore the rough sections on the wheels - still have sanding and cleaning to do ).

As I said, much better day today.

Regards

Keith

New front shaft.jpgMotion support and wheels.jpgFront Wheels1.jpgFront wheels2.jpg

[crowie]

Now that's really starting to look train like...well done Keith...Cheers, Peter

[Repliconics]

Very nice work indeed Keith.
Good to see things are back on track.
After the slight derailment.

Cheers
Trev.

[Keith_1]

Very nice work indeed Keith.
Good to see things are back on track.
After the slight derailment.

Cheers
Trev.

2 puns in the one reply - I am impressed

Thanks

Keith

[Keith_1]

Hi All,

First of all a tip. If you want to file some small components or into so hard to get at spots - you can buy nail emery boards for a couple of dollars at the $2 shop. Well worth the money I reckon (8 in a packet).

Made up the main drive axle today. Machined up out of aluminium. The offsets are 12mm MDF, drilled to take the shaft and bearings. I drilled first and then machined shafts and bearings to fit. I then araldited the bearings into the offsets. Had to be dead flat and square. Then araldidted the centre shaft in position. Finally the two end shafts (Wheel bearings and main support bearing shaft). Biggest hassle was getting it all aligned. Used squares, flat boards (Whatever I could) Took quite a while. Very happy with outcome though - really fluked it - The shaft is running within 1.5mm from one shaft end to the other shaft end - pretty true - really lucky.

(Photo of axle and wheels just sitting on top of chasis - they will sit in bearings below this position)

Everyone have a happy and safe New Year

Regards

Keith


emery1.jpgemery2.jpgaxles.jpgaxle drive.jpg

[Repliconics]

The great work just keeps coming.

Good to see you got past the small bit of trouble the other day.
So it's full steam ahead and hopefully the wheels don't full of again.
I know cant help myself, I just never seem to be able to stay on track.
Damn I've gone off the rails again!
Still it will be a new year in a couple of hours, so there maybe a light at the end of the tunnel.

Oh I give up there's no hope for me!.
But I'm looking forward to much more of your wonderful build in the New Year.

Cheers Keith
Trev.

[Handyjack]

Hi All,

First of all a tip. If you want to file some small components or into so hard to get at spots - you can buy nail emery boards for a couple of dollars at the $2 shop. Well worth the money I reckon (8 in a packet).

Made up the main drive axle today. Machined up out of aluminium. The offsets are 12mm MDF, drilled to take the shaft and bearings. I drilled first and then machined shafts and bearings to fit. I then araldited the bearings into the offsets. Had to be dead flat and square. Then araldidted the centre shaft in position. Finally the two end shafts (Wheel bearings and main support bearing shaft). Biggest hassle was getting it all aligned. Used squares, flat boards (Whatever I could) Took quite a while. Very happy with outcome though - really fluked it - The shaft is running within 1.5mm from one shaft end to the other shaft end - pretty true - really lucky.

(Photo of axle and wheels just sitting on top of chasis - they will sit in bearings below this position)

Everyone have a happy and safe New Year

Regards

Keith


emery1.jpgemery2.jpgaxles.jpgaxle drive.jpg

Sorry Keith to put a dampener on things. Two cylinder steam engines generally have the cranks at 90^o. This enables the engine to start regardless of where it stops. An internal combustion engine with 2 (or 4) cylinders will have cranks at 180^o.
It makes you wonder how they managed to erect the full size engines, and what thought (or lack of) was given to future maintenance.
Hopefully you are back on track and full steam ahead for the rest of the build.

[Keith_1]

Thanks Handyjack for your comments and interest in my locomotive. I too was wondering what would happen if the loco stopped and the crank was in an unenviable position. I then considered internal combustion engines and went for the 180 degrees. Good to utilize your knowledge and I can make the modification. Hopefully I can get the shaft as true as I originally had it. I will cut out the centre shaft and make a new one and rotate to the 90 degrees you advised. Maybe an extra days work.

In the meantime - I have made up the first connecting rod from the piston to the axle. I made the bearing that fits on the axle in 2 halves. It is a slide fit into the support section of the connecting rod. The bearing is held in position by 2 bolts. I will need to make some minor modifications to the motion plate to ensure the connecting rod runs centrally in the motion plate (see photo with red pointer). The good thing is that the rotation of the axle does create reciprocal motion on the piston shaft.

Helping son tomorrow - no work in shed. I think Cathie reckons I am spending way too much time on the locomotive. She is coming with me to the son's place tomorrow. That should get me free in the shed on Saturday :fingerscrossed

Regards

Keith

conrod in situ1.jpgconrod in situ2.jpgMotion Plate Modification.jpg

[Repliconics]

I get the bit about the crank.
But I'm wondering what's shown on your plans?.

Still looking fantastic by the way.

Cheers
Trev.

[Keith_1]

Hi Trev and others,

The plans are a bit unclear, they mention 180 degree but the drawing looks like it is at 90 degree, pretty confusing. That is one of the reasons I went with the 180. I don't know if there are other drawings, I got 18, but they don't have a general assembly referencing the components. It is pretty much "hit and miss" on assembly and making the components fit. The Lion website has been good when looking at how components sit on the loco. (Stupid me didn't looked up the crank axle to see the configuration).
I wouldn't like to be building a "live steamer" from the drawings. Don't get me wrong, they have been good - I have been scaling up dimensions and are a great reference, but as I said - I think there is something missing.

Regards

Keith

[Handyjack]

In the meantime - I have made up the first connecting rod from the crosshead and piston rod to the axle. I made the bearing that fits on the axle in 2 halves. It is a slide fit into the support section of the connecting rod. The bearing is held in position by 2 bolts. I will need to make some minor modifications to the motion plate to ensure the connecting rod runs centrally in the motion plate (see photo with red pointer). The good thing is that the rotation of the axle does create reciprocal motion on the piston rod (shaft).



Keith

conrod in situ1.jpgconrod in situ2.jpgMotion Plate Modification.jpg

The join between the piston rod and the connecting rod is a crosshead which runs in a guide so the piston rod runs parallel to the cylinder. Your motion plate would hold the crosshead guide. Crosshead guides come in various forms and which type Lion uses I do not know. One type is basically cylindrical, others have bars top and bottom.
You may need to contact the Lion website and ask for more detail or someone to even photograph the engine (from underneath if possible).
Hope all the above makes sense to you.

[Treecycle]

Helping son tomorrow - no work in shed. I think Cathie reckons I am spending way too much time on the locomotive. She is coming with me to the son's place tomorrow. That should get me free in the shed on Saturday :fingerscrossed

I don't think that will happen with 41 degrees forecast. The last time I was in your shop there was no airconditioning.

[Keith_1]

I don't think that will happen with 41 degrees forecast. The last time I was in your shop there was no airconditioning.

Dallas,

I will work till it gets too hot. Have overhead fans and big oscillating fan - although the air conditioner inside the house may win out.

Regards

Keith

[Keith_1]

The join between the piston rod and the connecting rod is a crosshead which runs in a guide so the piston rod runs parallel to the cylinder. Your motion plate would hold the crosshead guide. Crosshead guides come in various forms and which type Lion uses I do not know. One type is basically cylindrical, others have bars top and bottom.
You may need to contact the Lion website and ask for more detail or someone to even photograph the engine (from underneath if possible).
Hope all the above makes sense to you.

Hi Handyjack.

The Lion does have a crossheads to hold the piston rods parallel and in line. Even though I am building partly to replica, I have ignored this part. (One of the reasons this not in scale modelling section). I wanted to include some of the main running components, but gets really difficult and fiddly in timber and the size I am building (fingers not as "nimble" as they used to be). Didn't want this just to be a cosmetic look, but still not a "live Steam" model so to speak, but will try to add extra components to give it a realistic look. Hope that all makes sense.
Thanks for your comments and great knowledge regarding locomotives, most appreciated. Please continue with your comments and information - I am really keen to learn as much as I can about steam locomotives.

Best Regards

Keith