Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 24
-
26th June 2005, 06:22 PM #1
Garret Wade 202 GF - too glue up table top
High guys
I almost ready to glue up panels (7) for hall table-top -(using biscuits for alignment) and have been considering what glue to use. Have spent some time searching on this BB and have come to think that Garret Wde 202 F (where do I get it ?) may be the way to go --
You opinions please ...
Is this the best glue to use - or what other would you recommend ?
How long would I have to complete work ?
Thanks in advance
-
26th June 2005 06:22 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
26th June 2005, 06:54 PM #2
GLues are usually bout hoarses for courses n I'm sure you'll find that we all have our own favourate Glue that we keep using!!
............Some use a certain type or brandname of glue because they have always used the same glue since they first started woodworking and have seen no reason to change............others because they have have gone through a number of different glue types and found the one that works best for them.
.............Fact is all modern glue types will do the Job and do it well particularly with long grain to long grain glueups. Check out this article.......is a good read on all things GLue:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/useglue.html
Personally I use Garret n Wade 202 n have found it a great glue!! had no problems with it and have found it easy to clean up!!!
REgards LouLast edited by NewLou; 26th June 2005 at 09:30 PM.
Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
-
26th June 2005, 07:02 PM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 240
Either Yellow Glue (PVr) or Durabond (Polyurethane) should do the job fine , probably lean towards a good PVr like Titebond 2 !
that should say PVR , not PVA as I originally wrote
-
26th June 2005, 07:26 PM #4Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2005
- Location
- Kingsgrove NSW
- Age
- 73
- Posts
- 72
Barry
Do you class glues such as Selleys Aquadhere (which is what I almost always use) and othe white PVA glues as yellow glues? I read the article that New Lou referred to and it didn't mention ordinary white PVA glues as such. I am a bit confoosed.
Samson13
-
26th June 2005, 07:31 PM #5
Samson, the yellow glue is a stronger bond than the white. For instance, I think Triton premium (which is a yellow glue) boasts about 30% stronger than the white glues.There is a difference.
more for more info go here:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...r/1274621.htmlIf at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
-
26th June 2005, 07:49 PM #6
I use Garrett Wade 202GF for just about everything, in fact I received 2 more bottles on Friday. You can get it from www.patricksandkent.com, BUT when I glued up my laminated bench top recently I used Titebond III because it boasts a 10 minute open time and, having been born with 2 left feet instead of hands, I needed all the time I could get.
It worked very well, I brushed it on and assembled 7 at a time to make 4 larger panels that I later glued together. Its other great advantage (particularly for a workbench) is that it is waterproof.
Fletty
-
26th June 2005, 08:51 PM #7
-
26th June 2005, 09:14 PM #8Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2005
- Location
- Kingsgrove NSW
- Age
- 73
- Posts
- 72
Thanks Gumby. I'm now de-foosed. It seems that with complicated and/or fiddly glue ups where a longer open time is important, white glue is the way to go unless yellow glue's higher strength is important. Is there any white glue that has an appreciably longer open time than others?
-
26th June 2005, 11:31 PM #9Originally Posted by Samson13If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
-
27th June 2005, 12:27 AM #10
I use epoxy for most of my work, can get it with slow, normal or fast hardener.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
-
27th June 2005, 03:08 AM #11
I agree with Mick on epoxy for table tops and glued up panels. PVA glues have a tendency to creep and thus to produce an annoying rib along the glue line, especially if the glue line is thick, as when the boards are not perfectly jointed. Techniglue epoxy with a slow hardener gives you at least 30 minutes to complete the glue up. It is gap-filling, and comes as a gel which does not drip, so it is a lot less messy than many glues.
Rocker
-
27th June 2005, 09:29 AM #12
Thanks guys for advice -and for the links which I found very useful.
I have not yet decided on finish for table (wait for further questions down the line !!) but can I assume that the above mentioned glues will allow for any normal finish assuming proper cleanup. I read something somewhere about black lines along joints which would not be too good- is this a concern ? Im using Vic Ash.
Regards
Albert
Albert
-
27th June 2005, 09:42 AM #13
Rocker
Although Epoxy is no doubt a great option it could be argued that for these types of glueups Epoxy is overkill!..............Epoxy is probably better put to use where the specific Join is under considerable stress or when requiring to do metal/wood glueups etc etc You'll often see master woodworker David Marks using epoxy's under these circumstances.
Many of the Modern generation PVA glues do not suffer from creep and would do the Job just fine. Heres some more information on Glues:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...GlueGuide.html
Garret n Wade 202 does not suffer from creep and has got great results in past head to head tests with other glue types. If glueup time is a major issue you could use a plastic resin glue that will also give good results............At the end of the day whats probably even more important than the glue used is that you:
1. Do a dry Fit!
2. Prep you clamping strategy
3. Use marking tape to collect squeezout
4. Prep cleanup rags water toothbrush etc etc so that squeezout can be easily cleaned up!!!
You'll be amazed how preping your glueup & clamping strategy will help things run a lot smoother & lead to a cleaner glueup!!!!!
REgards LouJust Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
-
27th June 2005, 01:40 PM #14Originally Posted by aabb
Dark glue lines are a problem only with resorcinol glue, which is normally used for outdoor furniture or in wet areas, since it is completely waterproof.
Rocker
-
27th June 2005, 02:16 PM #15Originally Posted by Rocker
Albert
Similar Threads
-
First project - workbench
By javali in forum THE WORK BENCHReplies: 18Last Post: 19th January 2005, 12:20 PM -
rockin' table top
By tictak in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 6Last Post: 10th June 2004, 01:47 AM -
Repairing Antique Table Top
By Asquared in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 0Last Post: 16th August 2001, 02:28 AM -
Triton 2000 WorkCentre Table Top
By barrysumpter in forum TRITON / GMCReplies: 0Last Post: 6th February 2001, 02:58 AM -
Glue Lines On Table Top
By Scottb in forum GLUEReplies: 2Last Post: 9th January 2001, 06:30 PM