chuck screw...screwed !!

[smiife]

thanks treecycle, there is a big price differance
between the us/uk one and the ones from china
just a better quality i suppose, I will have to get a set of those
Thanks again

[Treecycle]

Yeah, hard to tell with China. Sometimes you get reasonable quality and other times it's just rubbish.

[Evanism]

Geez you guys are making this sound hard. This happens with engines all the time. Take a small drill bit and drill right down the middle. After it cools it usually winds right out just by jamming something squarish in the small hole (tiny screw driver). Also, as above, the other is to drill it till the head pops off.

Take it easy and slow. It should unwind with just your fingers once the jaw is removed.

[mjl09]

The Grabit bits are available in OZ - it seems Sutton Tools is the distributor

They are listed on the Bunnings website - though i cant say i have seen them in store (though werent looking for them either) http://www.bunnings.com.au/extractor...g8520_p6360085

They are also available from Blackwoods who offer a wider range of kits incorporating different size bits. Can be ordered through http://www.blackwoods.com.au for delivery or pickup in store (Though Tamworth looks like your closest store)

[Oldgreybeard]

Hi guys ,
Some very good suggestions there, thank you all
very much, I will try them out on the weekend!
It is just one of the allen flat head screws on one of the
jaws, I like chuckies idea just keep the jaws on there and
buy a new chuck , a good excuse to buy a new chuck
Thanks again for the great ideas, will let you know what
happens
Mjl90 does amazon deliver to oz? I like those screw
extactors in the video

smiife, you should be able to buy screw extracyors at most engineering hardware outlets. I would be surprised if they were not available at the large DIY outlets. I have bought them in the past at the local suburban industrial supply store here in SE Melbourne.
They are usually very effective.

Bob

[joe greiner]

Before you do to much damage - Try Rob McKee's tip. Thank you to Rob for permission to use his tip in an article I wrote on chuck maintenance for the AAW Journal (29-03 p20-).

(Sorry in advance I cannot place the PDF on here as that requires AAW permission as the copyright license owner.)

Have a helper place the allen key in the damaged cap screw head.

With a small center punch & hammer make a good punch mark into the head of the cap screw adjacent to each of the hex faces of the allen key. This deforms the metal to essentially reform the hex recess around the allen key & helps to break the "seal" of the threads.

Then attempt to remove the cap screw as normal. A pair of multi grips or a spanner on the shaft of the allen key also helps.

If this fails then I'm afraid you will have to resort to drilling & screw extractors or simply drill off the cap screw head then removing the "stud" by other mechanical means as others have stated above.

Impact drivers may help.

Another couple of tips -

• throw away the ball end allen keys - useless for chuck maintenance as they do more damage than good.
• use a little petroleum jelly on the threads & underside of the of the cap screws when you reassemble the jaw sets.
• don't be stingy - replace cap screws at the first sign of damage & regularly - they only cost a few dollars per set. (Vicmarc style are readily available at specialist bolt suppliers, and cheaper by the per 100. Nova are not so easy to find.)
• maintain chucks regularly - if you do then none of this is necessary!

I haven't seen impact drivers with small-enough bits for those screws.

But you could simulate one with a hammer associated with the step, "remove the cap screw as normal," driving downward toward the screw (with the chuck on a bench).

Cheers,
Joe

[smiife]

The Grabit bits are available in OZ - it seems Sutton Tools

They are listed on the Bunnings website - though i cant say i have seen them in store (though werent looking for them either) http://www.bunnings.com.au/extractor...g8520_p6360085

They are also available from Blackwoods who offer a wider range of kits incorporating different size bits. Can be ordered through http://www.blackwoods.com.au for delivery or pickup in store (Though Tamworth looks like your closest store)

Thanks mjl90,
Now I have an excuse to go shopping online and in bunnies

smiife, you should be able to buy screw extracyors at most engineering hardware outlets. I would be surprised if they were not available at the large DIY outlets. I have bought them in the past at the local suburban industrial supply store here in SE Melbourne.
They are usually very effective.

Bob

Yeah thanks bob, I should be able to get some around here
but then again we are In country nsw

I haven't seen impact drivers with small-enough bits for those screws.

But you could simulate one with a hammer associated with the step, "remove the cap screw as normal," driving downward toward the screw (with the chuck on a bench).

Cheers,
Joe

Thanks for your reply joe, I will give IT a go on the weekend

[smiife]

Geez you guys are making this sound hard. This happens with engines all the time. Take a small drill bit and drill right down the middle. After it cools it usually winds right out just by jamming something squarish in the small hole (tiny screw driver). Also, as above, the other is to drill it till the head pops off.

Take it easy and slow. It should unwind with just your fingers once the jaw is removed.

Hi evanism,
Yeah I know, but If we NEED MORE TOOLS............why not!
and also If it won, t come out I could have to get a new chuck!
Thanks for your thoughts too!

[chuck1]

One more suggestio a left hand drill bit!

[NCPaladin]

You may need a "good" screw extractor if you buy one. The screws on most of my Nova's are 12.9 hardness but a couple are 10.9. The extractor will need to able to cut (bite into) these harder screws not a normal screw or bolt.

[smiife]

One more suggestio a left hand drill bit!

Hi chuckie,
A left hand drill bit?.............are you having me on!

[tore]

4mm dia left drill perfect


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dormer-A1...item2c931c3e0a

[chuck1]

Smiffie my tame metal working mate and I were talking and he mentioned extracting screws with left hand drill bit by having it catch instead of drilling with cordless drill.
thought it was a joke at first too. But it can work in some applications.

[RoyG]

Geez you guys are making this sound hard. This happens with engines all the time. Take a small drill bit and drill right down the middle. After it cools it usually winds right out just by jamming something squarish in the small hole (tiny screw driver). Also, as above, the other is to drill it till the head pops off.

Take it easy and slow. It should unwind with just your fingers once the jaw is removed.

.............. What Evanism said ! ..................

Forget all this stuff about Grabit's, EasyOuts and other screw extractor tools. They're not needed in this case. And anyway, I'm not sure you'd get a screw extractor small enough to do this job anyway, as the screws that hold the jaws on a Teknatool Chuck measure only 5.5 mm diameter across the threads.

After you've drilled the screw head off, you'll only have about 1 to 2 mm of thread left poking out, but (unless the screw thread is crossed or otherwise bound up) you should still be able to use your fingers to unscrew the remains of the screw.

Regards,

Roy

[bowl-basher]

I'd drill that grub screw out first.

I found that drilling the head off took the pressure of the thread and you will find that it comes out easy with a pair of pliers or vice grips
Also found that Nova were more prone tooth's than Vicmark
Regards
Bowl Basher