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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Brisbane
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    454

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    Phil I am only using a 5mm pitch on my Z axis (2005) as you don't even need to move super huge distances, but you do want super fine resolution.

    For the Y I am using 2510 and on the X I am using 2 x 3210.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    549

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    Phil, generally not a good idea to use belt reduction with steppers. Sorry to be a bit short with my replies / info, time seems to grow ever shorter.

    Lots of discussion over on CNC zone about these topics.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    28

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    I have just managed to put a couple of major parts together.
    Time to save up for the missing steel for the frame.

    I have asked this before and got no answers so I will ask again.

    What is the best type of limit & home switches to use, I think normally closed type so if there a break in a wire the machine won't run but not sure on whether lever type or proximity switches would be more reliable and accurate.

    Philip
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  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    I'd go with normally closed, they seem to be the most common configuration. As you say. a broken wire will be detected which isn't the case with normally open .

  6. #35
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Cockatoo Vic
    Posts
    996

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    I have had good service from these ebay items,

    280752109320 and 281447862911

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Nice build. Everything looks super solid up until the z axis. I'd re make this with alloy three times the thickness you are using now.


    Steve

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    I hope you are only talking about the side pieces of aluminium as the are 3mm(only there to stop swarf getting onto the bearings).
    The other parts are, the front: 16mm + 20mm stiffeners + 20mm linear rails, the back: 12mm + 16mm bolted together.
    Tripleing that would be over kill

    I'm not sure if I am allowed to post link like this but here goes, these are no or advertising suppliers they are only for examples.

    Who would recommend either of these for my build, or can recommend alternatives.
    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/400W-...235940269.html

    http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...760394727.html

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    29

    Default Limit switches

    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky Phil View Post
    I have asked this before and got no answers so I will ask again.

    What is the best type of limit & home switches to use, I think normally closed type so if there a break in a wire the machine won't run but not sure on whether lever type or proximity switches would be more reliable and accurate.

    Philip
    I'm not sure if there is a "best" type of limit switch. Because I work with timber (not metal) then the fine dust is an issue affecting the switch mechanism. My first setup had the little micro switches which work but didn't maintain accuracy. I've since upgraded my machine a couple of times. Currently, I'm running without any limit switches which is not ideal, but my new BoB which is great for everything except working with the existing Hall Effect Devices I used so effectively last time!

    This is the sort of product I used last time. http://www.jaycar.com.au/PRODUCTS/Ac...duced/p/ZD1900

    or just google CYHME301

    The small gap allows a (ferrous) vane to pas through it.

    I find this solution to be very elegant. It is not my idea but one or two of the very helpful / bright sparks on this forum.

    Good luck with your new build!

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Just finished painting the frame & mounting two of the electrical control boxes.

    I have ordered some limit switches and am searching for some good quality shielded cable for them, it's time to start fabricating brackets for mounting the cable chain and the coolant system & the mist lubricating system I am going to make for routing aluminium use.
    I hope to have all these small type jobs done by the time my I get my taxes done just in case there is any spending money available for the drive motors.
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  11. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    28

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    Hi all, time for an update.

    I have purchased one Leadshine closed loop stepper motor just for sizing it up for mounting, it will be the Z axis mounted behind the plates with a 25mm belt connecting it.

    I have mounted my Z axis limit switches and stops, and connected the spindle power & coolant lines, I have made a coolant tank (approx. 4L) and mounted it along with the radiator, VFD & fan controller for the radiator if needed.

    I had the spindle running yesterday @ 24000rpm for about 1/2an hour (no load) with it only increasing in temp by 2 degrees above ambient.
    I have four fans mounted on a sheet metal bracket ready to go if needed.

    I have my X & Y limit switches now so the next job will be make the stops for both ends of X & Y and then mount the switches.

    I have made a start on the lubrication misting as well, I have started programing an Arduino Uno and have a Nokia 510 screen wired to it as an on/off timer, when in operation it will be controlled from breakout board.

    I will use (flood lubrication) run from Linux CNC to control an air solenoid with the nozzle directing an air jet at the cutter and (misting)to operate another solenoid to inject some sort of cutter lubrication into the air stream, and the Arduino will pulse the lubrication solenoid on & off depending how much fluid I need.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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