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Thread: Tassie Build Steel & Aluminium
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25th May 2015, 07:11 PM #31Senior Member
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Phil I am only using a 5mm pitch on my Z axis (2005) as you don't even need to move super huge distances, but you do want super fine resolution.
For the Y I am using 2510 and on the X I am using 2 x 3210.
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25th May 2015 07:11 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th May 2015, 11:39 PM #32SENIOR MEMBER
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- Sep 2009
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Phil, generally not a good idea to use belt reduction with steppers. Sorry to be a bit short with my replies / info, time seems to grow ever shorter.
Lots of discussion over on CNC zone about these topics.
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23rd June 2015, 09:30 PM #33Intermediate Member
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- Dec 2014
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- Hobart
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- 28
I have just managed to put a couple of major parts together.
Time to save up for the missing steel for the frame.
I have asked this before and got no answers so I will ask again.
What is the best type of limit & home switches to use, I think normally closed type so if there a break in a wire the machine won't run but not sure on whether lever type or proximity switches would be more reliable and accurate.
Philip
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23rd June 2015, 10:29 PM #34GOLD MEMBER
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I'd go with normally closed, they seem to be the most common configuration. As you say. a broken wire will be detected which isn't the case with normally open .
Geoff
The view from home
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27th June 2015, 03:26 PM #35SENIOR MEMBER
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I have had good service from these ebay items,
280752109320 and 281447862911
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18th July 2015, 10:58 PM #36New Member
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- Oct 2013
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- melbourne
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Nice build. Everything looks super solid up until the z axis. I'd re make this with alloy three times the thickness you are using now.
Steve
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23rd July 2015, 07:55 PM #37Intermediate Member
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- Dec 2014
- Location
- Hobart
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- 28
Hi Steve,
I hope you are only talking about the side pieces of aluminium as the are 3mm(only there to stop swarf getting onto the bearings).
The other parts are, the front: 16mm + 20mm stiffeners + 20mm linear rails, the back: 12mm + 16mm bolted together.
Tripleing that would be over kill
I'm not sure if I am allowed to post link like this but here goes, these are no or advertising suppliers they are only for examples.
Who would recommend either of these for my build, or can recommend alternatives.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/400W-...235940269.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...760394727.html
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24th July 2015, 11:45 AM #38Intermediate Member
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- Jul 2010
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- New Zealand
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- 29
Limit switches
I'm not sure if there is a "best" type of limit switch. Because I work with timber (not metal) then the fine dust is an issue affecting the switch mechanism. My first setup had the little micro switches which work but didn't maintain accuracy. I've since upgraded my machine a couple of times. Currently, I'm running without any limit switches which is not ideal, but my new BoB which is great for everything except working with the existing Hall Effect Devices I used so effectively last time!
This is the sort of product I used last time. http://www.jaycar.com.au/PRODUCTS/Ac...duced/p/ZD1900
or just google CYHME301
The small gap allows a (ferrous) vane to pas through it.
I find this solution to be very elegant. It is not my idea but one or two of the very helpful / bright sparks on this forum.
Good luck with your new build!
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29th July 2015, 09:10 PM #39Intermediate Member
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- Dec 2014
- Location
- Hobart
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- 28
Just finished painting the frame & mounting two of the electrical control boxes.
I have ordered some limit switches and am searching for some good quality shielded cable for them, it's time to start fabricating brackets for mounting the cable chain and the coolant system & the mist lubricating system I am going to make for routing aluminium use.
I hope to have all these small type jobs done by the time my I get my taxes done just in case there is any spending money available for the drive motors.
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9th November 2015, 07:01 PM #40Intermediate Member
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- Dec 2014
- Location
- Hobart
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- 28
Hi all, time for an update.
I have purchased one Leadshine closed loop stepper motor just for sizing it up for mounting, it will be the Z axis mounted behind the plates with a 25mm belt connecting it.
I have mounted my Z axis limit switches and stops, and connected the spindle power & coolant lines, I have made a coolant tank (approx. 4L) and mounted it along with the radiator, VFD & fan controller for the radiator if needed.
I had the spindle running yesterday @ 24000rpm for about 1/2an hour (no load) with it only increasing in temp by 2 degrees above ambient.
I have four fans mounted on a sheet metal bracket ready to go if needed.
I have my X & Y limit switches now so the next job will be make the stops for both ends of X & Y and then mount the switches.
I have made a start on the lubrication misting as well, I have started programing an Arduino Uno and have a Nokia 510 screen wired to it as an on/off timer, when in operation it will be controlled from breakout board.
I will use (flood lubrication) run from Linux CNC to control an air solenoid with the nozzle directing an air jet at the cutter and (misting)to operate another solenoid to inject some sort of cutter lubrication into the air stream, and the Arduino will pulse the lubrication solenoid on & off depending how much fluid I need.
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