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  1. #1
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    Default sanding/polishing into tight v-grooves

    Gday spinners,

    I've made up a handle for a stiletto dagger. It has a number of ridges and valleys, all quite fine... literally the point of a sharp carbide cutter.

    I'm trying to work out how I can finely sand down into those valleys. Unsanded they look awful.

    The black stuff is G10. Its may as well be made of supermans bones... its hard.

    Below is the photo, using the best angle and lighting I could to highlight the ridges. (to make them look nasty)... it looks better after tonights Shellawaxing.

    I've tried using:

    -- a thin strip of 600 torn off an abrasive multipack. Its cloth backed.
    -- a good coating of EEE and a fluffy terry towelling.
    -- fluffy tooth floss

    I will try: tooth pick and kebab skewer with a cotton ball EEE or ram in a tightly folded 600 grit edge.

    But its not quite getting down there.

    Any ideas?

    DSC09351 (1024x685).jpg

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  3. #2
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    Default sanding

    They have a product that is like a sandpaper string, sold on a spool. It's for sanding and refinishing furniture, like the spindles. I've seen it in craft and woodworking and scroll saw catalogs. Just Google 'sanding string' for pictures and stores.
    Vici

  4. #3
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    Default

    Would steel wool work?

  5. #4
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    Default Sanding grooves

    Tightly folded over sandpaper will do the job - but sand lightly as it will quite easily change the shape of the grooves.

    I would suggest that in future using a skew chisel will leave the surface very much smoother.

    Cam

  6. #5
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    Default

    Sia make a very good paper backed sand paper that is great for small spindle work. I cut it into small rectangles of about 25 x 40 mm. Should be available at most reputable auto refinisher suppliers or paint suppliers.

    SIA 1919 http://www.sia-abrasives.com/industr...awood_plus.php

    &

    SIA 1913 http://www.sia-abrasives.com/files/F...3siawat_en.pdf - is my preference
    Mobyturns

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  7. #6
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    Default

    Could you use a skew fresh off the grinder but using the long point. What I'm pictured is set the toolrest so the long point is at Centre height and poke the long point in so the burr on the bevel is cutting into the bottom of your shape.
    hope this makes sense?!

    so your scraping with the top of your skew. You would need a rectangular skew and hold on tight!

    or could you change the grooves into beads?

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tangoman View Post
    I would suggest that in future using a skew chisel will leave the surface very much smoother.
    Agreed.

  9. #8
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    Default

    G10 isn't wood. HSS doesn't touch it this is why the carbide was absolutely necessary.

  10. #9
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    Evanisim,

    I think you have done well. Some thin 600 grit folded over a knife blade might do it. Stick it down in the groove and slant to the left, then to the right, then out. You wont get much life out of the grit so you will probably have to do a new fold for each groove.

    Follow up with some yarn charged with Shellawax.

    It looks wonderful.

    For you folks suggesting a skew, the material is probably plastic filled with either glass fiber or Kevlar.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  11. #10
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    Default

    Oh super hard/strong. Could you a new tct. or a V router bit get in there to clean it up?

  12. #11
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    [QUoTE Evanism;1857474]G10 isn't wood. HSS doesn't touch it this is why the carbide was absolutely necessary.[/QUOTE]

    Hi evanism,
    If It ain, t wood and hss is no good how about
    burning the grooves in with copper wire , It would
    match In with the black in the handle and look good
    on the timber part . just an idea !
    Cheers smiife

  13. #12
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    Smiffie cheated and used his super powers to view my post and pictures before I put them up!

    I deliberately used the very point of the skew, freshly sharpened on on an 80 CBN (not the 180) and since it was rough it acted like a file. Then it was a length of acrylic builders string.. the bright pink and fluoro orange stuff with a dab of EEE, then finally a good length of fluffy tooth floss.

    Did a good job.... I think.

    Time to part off and drill for the tang...

    3 miserable pix showing a bit of detail.... 1000 apologies for the rubbish photography.

    DSC09364 - Copy (1280x460).jpg DSC09370 - Copy (1280x674).jpg DSC09374 - Copy (1280x543).jpg

    Many thanks to everyone who gave me ideas for carbides, scraping, detailing, etc... shoulders of giants and all that
    Last edited by Evanism; 12th April 2015 at 06:49 PM. Reason: fighting rubbish image attachment tool

  14. #13
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    If you are pushing the skew in whilst in the vertical position it will tear the grain, lie the skew on its side and cut the grove with the tip from one side, therefore effectively using the skew as a negative raked scraper.
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dai sensei View Post
    If you are pushing the skew in whilst in the vertical position it will tear the grain, lie the skew on its side and cut the grove with the tip from one side, therefore effectively using the skew as a negative raked scraper.
    I was thinking about your comment and came back to it. I put the skew horizontal with the point on the lower side, starting with the edge in the gap and slowly raising the point up until it just touched.

    This sort of pushed all the fibres flat and gave enough friction to polish the G10... To some degree.

    The woven builders string did a great job.

    To be really honest, I was absolutely terrified that it would catch and rip off a chunk. Certified instant disaster! There were no spares, required absolute exactitude and this was a very special mates-rates gallery presentation....it made me sweat at every level.

  16. #15
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    Default here is my rubbish job

    Ready made for the fire.

    Its a cold night!

    An engineering mob will be doing the tangs hole..... maybe I will. Unknown

    10604555_1572033173062152_1011013202133175061_o.jpg 11038250_1572033206395482_3916220785211045559_o.jpg 11102933_1572033169728819_1390988865471358619_o.jpg 11112906_1572033213062148_2847962010230142452_o.jpg 11128523_1572033186395484_2623459693147014862_o.jpg

    Length is 127mm and core diameter is 18mm. Made to a tolerance of 0.04mm in main diameters and 0.35mm in length to the drawings.

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