Stanley #6

[Glenn.Visca]

Gave grandfathers #6 a good clean up the other day.

Removed frog and all screws and dropped into CMT cleaning solution.

Removed iron assembly and removed rust with nylon grit brush on the drill press, then buffed with sisal loaded with fast cut compound, followed by callico with finishing compound. Was very surprised at how well they came up (although picture doeant show it).

Jolly good sharpening of iron and reassembled. Light oil applied to mating surfaces.

Japanning is tired, but I dare not mess with it.

Gave sole a gentle touch up on a granite plate.

Seems to plane nicely.

If I am honest, I can't say its completely original as the tote has a Record brand, and the lever cap doesn't look quite right ... But in this case, function over form.

Edited to reattach picture [emoji32]

[seanz]

That attachment isn't working. Please fix this, your work is going unadmired.

[Chief Tiff]

The lever cap would be correct for a pre-1936 plane. Does it have a frog adjusting screw under the blade adjuster and are there any patent dates cast into the body in front of the tote? Also give us a picture of the trademark on the blade, these will enable the plane to be dated.

[seanz]

That looks nice. I wouldn't do any more to it than that, looks tidy enough now.

[Glenn.Visca]

Thanks guys.

Yes, has frog adjustment.

More images ...

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[Vann]

The sole of your plane is a US made, type 13 (1925-28). The cutting iron is from a UK Stanley. The tote (as you said) is from an early Record. The lever-cap is pre-type 13 - which could be original if it's an early type 13, assembled with some end-of-stock components from the previous type.

Record were good at mixing their types. Record supplied their planes with rosewood handles, from the start of production in 1930, until WW2. But rosewood totes and knobs show up on WW2 and post war planes - particularly the larger planes. I suspect that for the top-of-the-range No.07 & 08s, the guys on the assembly line would dig deeper into the barrel of parts for better old stock handles.

But I'm rambling...

Cheers, Vann.

[Glenn.Visca]

Thanks Vann ...

[chook]

It looks just fine. Old planes and the new ones from LN and Veritas are both beautiful objects in their own right. My daughter, who is totally illiterate as regards to wood and tools, looked at my Veritas scraper plane. She had no idea what it was or what it did but she said it was "pretty". The old Stanley planes don't look pretty. Your no 6 has the kind of attraction or beauty that comes to old people who have lived useful lives and have grown old naturally and gracefully.

[Luke Maddux]

It looks just fine. Old planes and the new ones from LN and Veritas are both beautiful objects in their own right. My daughter, who is totally illiterate as regards to wood and tools, looked at my Veritas scraper plane. She had no idea what it was or what it did but she said it was "pretty". The old Stanley planes don't look pretty. Your no 6 has the kind of attraction or beauty that comes to old people who have lived useful lives and have grown old naturally and gracefully.

Well I, for one, am 29 and think it's fantastic. The jury is still out on whether or not I've been useful I suppose...

If I could do it over, all of my bench planes would be prewar Stanleys. As soon as I find a good #4 my Veritas will be in the Marketplace. Seriously considering replacing my Jack as well.

Looks great. Don't change a thing about it. Make your next photo of it in a pile of shavings it created!

[Glenn.Visca]

I forgot to ask this question when I posted it.

I used josco polishing compounds to clean up the irons etc. The instructions recommend cleaning the finished steel with meth or turps to remove residue (which would be the carrier for the cutting compound).

I didn't do this, under the belied the carrier might provide protection against rust.

Any views ?

[Chief Tiff]

Well, it's possible the traces of polishing compound might provide a rust resistant coating but I'd be looking at something a bit more definite.

If you want to keep the bare metal look maybe a coat of fish oil? When it has hardened it won't be as shiny as oil so won't look out of place.

I've just started "restoring" a 1911 Stanley number 5, as it's going to be a user I'm probably going to coat the bare metal areas in clear lacquer once they've been cleaned up.