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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Sydney
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    79
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    647

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by D.W. View Post
    I'd just leave the wood with linseed oil or something similar, but if linseed oil, I'd cover with wax (I've had mold form on linseed oil finishes that are subjected to dampness).

    I don't have salt, but in the summer, my garage shop (that is partially underground) can easily get to 80% humidity.

    I no longer keep saws I don't use, and when I use them, I apply a little beeswax mineral oil in use about once a year or so (that has been enough for saws with smooth plates). For metal tools, same beeswax mix (half mineral oil makes it so that you can apply it easily), and in some cases, I've shellacked non-critical (parts that don't touch wood) parts of planes with a very light coat of blonde shellac - cheeks, exposed bed, etc. You can always get shellac off easily and the coat can be very thin so that it doesn't look like a glossy glom of crap.
    David, if you warm the metel before putting on the oil or oil/wax mix, it seems to soak in a fraction (and of course the heated metal is dry) and provides long term protection. If you then leave out in the sun for some hours, I think works even better.

    Cheers
    Peter

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
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    3,127

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    No, I didn't warm it, but it occurs to me that if one were to let the plane in the sun for a little bit, you could use beeswax without mixing it 50/50 with oil. Your suggestion is a good one.

    I have the beeswax mix handy and use it for everything from a salve in the winter to furniture finish. It moves pretty easily when mixed with oil except when it's 50 degrees F in the shop.

    Beeswax is cheap here, about $6 a pound on ebay, which makes a quart of 50/50.

    Nothing I've applied it to has rusted yet, regardless of idle time. A drastic change vs. the old days (well, only a decade ago) of wiping stuff with camelia oil.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,823

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    Those planes sitting vertically worry me a bit, Vann, I hope they are well-attached by magnets or something!
    Hi Ian. I know you've acknowledged that those aren't my planes sitting vertically.

    My sloping shelves have a slope of only about 15 - 20 degrees.

    Planes1ML.jpg Four levels for plane storage.
    Planes2ML.jpg Top level L-R: Record 07ss, Marples M7, Record 05½ss, WS A7.
    Planes3ML.jpg Next level L-R: Stanley 4½; Clifton 4½; Clifton 3; Record 020; Record 010½.

    etc. I'm not sure why I put a slope on the shelves - possibly because the No.7 planes were slightly too long for the depth of cupboard available - but I think I was also worried that short planes might get lost in the depth...

    For lesser used planes, or planes with lots of loose bits, I made these 300x230mm boxes out of mostly scrap timber.

    Boxes1.jpg The lids slide in slots cut using the 043 plough.
    Box2ML.jpg The base has cleats PVA glued, then polyureathaned.
    Boxes3ML.jpg
    The boxes stack like so.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    77
    Posts
    12,130

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    Vann - I also had to slope my longer planes to fit comfortably in the depth of my tool cupboard, but my cupboard must be a bit more shallow than yours because I had to lift them (especially the #7), quite a bit more than 15 degrees.

    Planes that have multiple bits & bobs like combinations & ploughs, or fences that are not often needed like my 78, are a special case. Like you, I made some boxes to store the bits along with the planes. I hope to pass on my stuff while I still have most of my marbles, but if the worst happens, having them housed like that should help, as long as whoever deals with them has enough nouse to keep what's in the boxes together. The number of ploughs you find with only the last blade the previous owner used in them, or 78s minus fences, etc., is a worry!

    Cheers,
    IW

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Horsham Victoria
    Posts
    5,713

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    Is a 78 the same as what some call a granny tooth

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
    Is a 78 the same as what some call a granny tooth

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art
    No Dave, the 78 is a rebate (or 'rabbet' if you come from the wrong side of the lake ) plane. Scroll down the page to see the beast...

    Cheers,
    IW

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Horsham Victoria
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    5,713

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    No Dave, the 78 is a rebate (or 'rabbet' if you come from the wrong side of the lake ) plane. Scroll down the page to see the beast...

    Cheers,
    Thats a nice looking plane. I think Repliconics showed me one like that last time he was over. I have a 71

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Brisbane (western suburbs)
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
    Thats a nice looking plane. I think Repliconics showed me one like that last time he was over. I have a 71

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art
    People seem to love 'em or hate 'em. I use mine mostly for cleaning up tenons when I'm going for a piston-fit, I don't think I've ever made more than one or two short rebates with it. It's an old Stanley with the single-arm fence, which works ok, but the double-arm fence that the Record 078 have is preferable. As I said above, you come across plenty of old ones, but rarely with its fence. I had one without a fence for a very long time, but eventually got an intact one from FILs gear (which had been his father's). When we were cleaning out his shed, I spotted the plane amongst some other nondescript tools. I had a hunch that the rest of it might still be around, and after much searching, I eventually found first the arm, then the fence piece, in different piles of junk that SIL had ready to go to landfill. I was very pleased with myself!

    Cheers
    IW

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Petone, NZ
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    68
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    2,823

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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    It's an old Stanley with the single-arm fence, which works ok, but the double-arm fence that the Record 078 have is preferable.
    Just a technicality Ian, but it's the Record 778 that has two arms. The Record 078 is a Stanley clone with just the one arm. WS and Woden both also made two-arm fenced "Duplex" rebate planes.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas, USA
    Posts
    3,070

    Default Just happened across this, courtesy of the US Army.

    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  12. #26
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    Mar 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    Just a technicality Ian, but it's the Record 778 that has two arms. The Record 078 is a Stanley clone with just the one arm. WS and Woden both also made two-arm fenced "Duplex" rebate planes.

    Cheers, Vann.
    OK, Vann, thanks for straightening me out. So if I wanted to use a 78 style plane as a hard-working rebater, I should be searching for a 778.....

    Cheers
    IW

  13. #27
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    Sep 2008
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    Petone, NZ
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    So if I wanted to use a 78 style plane as a hard-working rebater, I should be searching for a 778...
    Hard working? If you mean one where the fence won't spin like a propeller (I exaggerate ), then yes. Or an A78 or W78 (WS or Woden). Or a Veritas Skew Rabbet

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    677

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    Well, its been over a month now, and all of my planes ha e been happily sittin in their leather lined tills, with no sign of rust on the soles that are in coctact with the leather.

    I continue to keep an eye out ... But so far so good.
    Glenn Visca

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    toronto, canada
    Posts
    61

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    You might overcomplicate things... I am very close to Lake Ontario (port Credit) Humidity 80-100% is the norm as is smog. I just wrap my planes, chisels etc in some old clothes and that is all. Inesthetic? Maybe - efficient and cheap 'though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn.Visca View Post
    I am toying around with storing my hand planes, chisels, saws etc in wall mounted tool chests with doors. Living in close proximity to Port Phillip Bay means we seem to have pretty salty air.

    So over the weekend I made up a trial storage box from some MDF scraps, and was wondering if anyone else had ideas about lining the box.

    Attachment 346169

    The way I see, I have some options:
    1. Leave as is and rub with wax, or linseed oil
    2. Line with leather, and rub in wax or perhaps dubbin (effect on cast ?)
    3. Line with felt
    4. Line with wax/oil paper.

    Any opinions or experiences ? And specific tim ers to avoid ?

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Stockton
    Posts
    291

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    Glenn if you are not keen on linseed try G15.

    http://www.jimdavey-planes-sharpenin...d-3b202d872d49

    I live beach front in Newcastle and have plenty of salt in the air to deal with. Since using this stuff i have never had problems with rust!

    Cheers
    Stew

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