4-6-2 Tank Locomotive - Circa 1910

[rwbuild]

Another thought is the rubber beading that holds fly screen gauze in the aluminum frame but is is either 6mm or 8mm, just a thought, with a piece of wire down the middle

[Repliconics]

Looking "Fantastic" mate.
Honestly by the time your done it will be hard to tell if it's a model or live steam!.

Cheers
Trev.

[Handyjack]

Looks like the air intake for the compressor will be a minor challenge for you. Just as well the end of the pipe has a filter on it to prevent general dust and dirt as well as smoke box ash (when cleaning) from entering the air compressor. It is interesting to note that when you look at images of other engines of the class, sometimes the air compressor is located in a different position although still on the right side of the engine.

[Keith_1]

Looks like the air intake for the compressor will be a minor challenge for you. Just as well the end of the pipe has a filter on it to prevent general dust and dirt as well as smoke box ash (when cleaning) from entering the air compressor. It is interesting to note that when you look at images of other engines of the class, sometimes the air compressor is located in a different position although still on the right side of the engine.

Yes,

I have seen some right back near the start of the water tank. Wonder why. You would have thought they had a standard layout and drawings ?

Regards

Keith

[DaveTTC]

I do 95% of our shopping (except what Raechell buys on ebay) It's gotta be done.

Wow two more pages of posts since your shopping comment

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

[Keith_1]

10mm breaker bead, made from foam,is used at junction of wall/floor before tiling or backing in expansion joints before sealing.
Bend to required shape and paint with PVA several times to maintain shape or before bending, push a length of light gauge wire down the middle then bend to shape.

How Good is this Forum.

Thanks everybody for your suggestions on the pipework. Crowie, thanks so much for ringing me today offering to send your old TV antenna (10mm tubing) for me - most appreciated. As I said previously - You're a GOOD MAN

Thanks Ray - I got some of the foam filler (from Bunnings). Cost $6 for 5 metres. The biggest hassle is getting the 2mm soft wire up the centre and not coming out the sides - mucked up a few. I have covered the foam in a slurry I made out of timber mate wood filler. When it hardens I will give another coat and then sand back with a fine grit to smooth it up. The pipe should be pretty solid. Will show a photo when I have sanded back etc. (but no kinks which is great)

As I said - Thanks everyone

Regards

Keith

pipe1.jpg

[Dalboy]

A little late and also a bit small but can be of some use for further reference I have a set of THESE which I have found useful in the past when making my model boats

[Keith_1]

A little late and also a bit small but can be of some use for further reference I have a set of THESE which I have found useful in the past when making my model boats

Thanks Derek,

There is some really nice looking equipment there. I will have a good look and some items may find their way into my shed

Appreciate your efforts in looking up this for me.

Regards

Keith

[Keith_1]

Hi all,

Worked on the compressor air intake and a bit more work on the actual compressor.

The pipework using the 10mm filler was OK, but you could still see the coarse grain of the foam - even after painting with 2 coats. Yesterday I bought some PVC solid and I told the guys I bought it off what I was trying to do with it. They told me I wouldn't be able to bend it at 90 degrees without it kinking and looking very ordinary. Anyway I bought it - 2 metre length for $5. Normally not an optimist (you know that well don't you Treecycle), I went out after lunch and using the air heat gun - heated it until it went very flexible (pretty hot but didn't damage the surface) Bent it to a really sharp 90 degrees. No kinking. Looked great. I then made up a fixture to the correct radius for the intake pipe and when at the correct bend quenched it in cold water. I am really happy how this has come up. I made the intake cup out of pine, turned up on wood lathe. Bored it out on the metal lathe and fitted some old flywire mesh as the mesh on the intake.

Regards

Keith

Air Intake1.jpgAir Intake2.jpg

[crowie]

Well done Keith.....looks great!! Cheers, Peter

[Tracker57]

That looks good I will have to remember that one thanks

[Keith_1]

Hi All,

Undoubtedly the most difficult part of the build so far has been the Single Stage D Class Air Compressor which supplied air for the braking system.

Getting the steam inlet and exhaust ports in the top section and the compressed air discharge and clean air intake ports on the bottom section in accordance with the photos I took has been quite difficult.

The Air section (bottom) has been mainly made out of MDF. The shaft is aluminium. The supports holding the bottom and top together are pine. The top steam section is made out of pine - turned on the wood lathe. All the small ancillary components have been turned out of aluminium on the metal lathe. Still haven't made up the bracket that will secure the compressor to the smokebox. That is why I just have it sitting on a piece of wood to see how it looks near where it will be located on the locomotive.

Regards

Keith

Air Compressor.jpg

[Handyjack]

That is looking pretty close to the real thing. You have even done the Type B lubricator for the air cylinder.
With the advance of time and a change of piston rings, for the last few years, this lubricator is no longer fitted to air compressors.

For those that want a bit of information, the D type compressor has a displacement of approx. 53 cub. ft. per minute at 100 strokes per minute. Source Victorian Railways, The Westinghouse Air Brake Book of Instructions. 1966

[Keith_1]

Hi All,

Hot in Torquay today - 38 degrees out in shed - had to call it quits.

I did manage to make up the securing brackets for the compressor. Gave the compressor another coat of paint - dried quickly today, and then a covering coat of spray clear satin. Then fitted the compressor.

Also made up the air reservoir. The main body was turned and the inlet and outlet fittings are aluminium. The feet on the reservoir are made from pine.

Next step is to pull the boiler and water tanks out and give another coat of paint and the seal them and start securing into it's final position. The I will start on the steam and air pipework.

Won't start in the cabin until I get the majority of the front end of the loco secured and together.

Regards

Keith

compressor and reservoir.jpg

[Dalboy]

The train is looking fantastic Keith and the compressor makes the front end start to come alive.

Good luck with all the pipe work it reminded me of the pipework on some of the boats I made and I still have a tub of brass rods tubes and other bits left over.

DSCF5615.jpg