GN Stearns Adjustable dowel/tenon cutter

[Fuzzie]

I picked this up in an antique mall recently. I've cleaned it up and got the parts moving smoothly and gave it a go on some scrap. To my somewhat surprise it worked easily and cut a fairly clean tenon on a scrap of pine.

Looking at pics of similar on the web it is missing the length setting stop, but that's not much of an issue. The dowel size is fully adjustable between 1/4" and 1 1/4". These are dated 1878 and by comparison to the run of the mill brace bits I have the drive end is oversize compared to the drills. I'm guessing there must be a variety of brace chuck sizes, just like with modern drill chucks, but luckily I was able to just fit it in to a more modern Stanley brace.

cutter1.jpgcutter2.jpgcutter3.jpgcutter4.jpg

[IanW]

Good find, Fuzzie. I wouldn't mind stumbling on one of those myself, they could be very useful at times...

Cheers,

[Morbius]

What angle should the blade on one of these be sharpened at?

[Fuzzie]

Not sure what the angles are but the blade in this one is sharpened both sides like a knife edge, not like a plane blade.
The leading edge of the blade is also cambered. I think this is important. I read elsewhere that the leading edge should be relieved to prevent it biting too agressively, but on this example the whole edge is slightly cambered.
stearnBlade1.jpgstearnBlade2.jpg

Franklin

[Morbius]

Thanks for sharing that.
I have a Phoenix copy on the way
The blade is in poor shape
I was hoping to find a similar sized LN blade and repurpose it

Craig

[Morbius]

Well,

The hollow auger arrived today, and it is indeed sharpened from both sides like a knife!
Anone know what angle it should be sharpened at? I can't find a reference in any of my books.

Craig

[Morbius]

Well,

I've found one suggestion to sharpen it at 25 degrees on both sides and another saying an acute angle is no good and it should be sharpened from both sides to give it an angle approaching 90 degrees to ensure the blade is resistant to damage.

Any other schools of thought?

Craig

[Fuzzie]

Craig, as far as I can tell my cutter has been shaped with flat 12.5 degree bevels both sides (included angle 25 - no hollow grind) and free hand honed another couple of degrees to give it the (30 degree?) cambered leading edge.

Franklin

[Boringgeoff]

Hi all,
I've been following this conversation with interest. I've got one the same as yours Fuzzie and checking the blade found it exactly the same as that suggested by you and Craig ie bevelled both sides at about 12.5 degrees. I'd say that the design of the tool requires the blade to be ground on both sides to enable a thicker blade to be used but still have clearance for the expulsion of chips?
With the blade set the same as in the photo at post #4 I was able to cut a nice clean tenon on a thin eucalypt branch. I also tried to take a photo of the blade to show how far it extended, with less than perfect results. I suppose basically you set them up as you would the blade in a plane. Craig, I'd like to see a photo of your Phoenix if you could sometime.

Cheers,
Geoff.

[Morbius]

Photos - no worries!

I'll upload some this weekend.

I've started the process of freeing up some of the parts - I couldn't adjust the base at all, which had seized. This is going to be a user's tool, not a collection, piece, so I've cleaned up the tool considerably, while trying to find out more about the angles. It looks like 12.5 degrees is the way to go and I'll sharpen it to that on the weekend

Pics to follow.

Craig

[Fuzzie]

Geoff, What model brace did you use? Any trouble fitting into the jaws?

Franklin.

[Boringgeoff]

Hi Franklin,
I used a 12" No 44 brace by James Chapman of Sheffield, but looking at your first photo again and trying to scale it against mine I think your tang might be bigger. I haven't tried but I think the tang could be unscrewed and replaced with a straight shank and in fact some manufacturers offered the choice at point of sale. I'm not aware that various sized tangs were offered though.
I've run over mine with a vernier, it tapers from 7/32" (5.4 mm) to tad over 7/16" (11.4 mm) for length of 1 7/16" (36.4 mm). Neck is about 27/64" (10.6 mm) and overall length is 2".
Craig, as a brace tool collector, that is any tool with a tapered tang that can be chucked in a two jaw brace, I also like to learn how to use them. Over the last year I've started making wooden mallets as demo's at shows. I bore the hole in the head using a chain drill and tenon the handle with spoke pointer and tenon cutter. My biggest problem is to keep the tenon true with the handle and one thing I have learnt is that the end of the handle has to be sawn absolutely square before you start. Try it yourself, cut a handle stock at a slight angle and see how hard it is to turn the tenon without running off.
Talking about running off, I've got to run off and get some breakfast.
Looking forward to your photos Craig.
Cheers,
Geoff

[Morbius]

How important is the use of a spoke pointer to start things off when using a hollow auger?

Does it make a real difference or would it be a waste of money tracking one down?

Thanks,

Craig

[Boringgeoff]

Craig, say you're going to cut a 1 1/4" tenon on a 2" piece of wood, you've got to reduce the end of the wood enough to insert it into the mouth of the cutter. You could probably use a rasp or a draw knife to achieve that. I think a spoke pointer is the best option but anything will do if you haven't got one.
I'll keep my eye out for one for you, you occasionally see them on ebay or at swap meets.

Cheers,
Geoff.

[Fuzzie]

Hi Geoff,

I measured my tang and it's mostly the same except it diminishes from 7.7mm at the thin end rather than 5.4.

I now notice the tang does appear to be a separate piece but I'm unsure I'd like to apply as much force as I think it would need to remove it.

Probably fits in an Ultimatum brace though.

Cheers, Franklin