Demountable storage vs 10ft container?

[Albert]

Hi all

I need some storage for my timber, I can only have a 10ft shipping container and it cost $$$$$.

I stumbled upon this "demountable stroage", its about 10%-15% cheaper than the proper 10ft container and its foldable.

Has anyone had any experience with them?

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[aldav]

Well it's no shipping container - much lighter - but it certainly looks like it would meet your needs admirably. Being able to fold it and take it apart (?) can be a huge advantage over shipping containers and many other structures. I guess you would need to install ventilation, and some type of shade over it would help with excessive heat build up in the summer. Looks like a good thing though.
If the likelihood of moving it isn't high wouldn't you be better off financially with a decent garden shed?

[Rod Gilbert]

Hi all,
I am very interested in the out come of this thread as I am about to move (next door much better work area) and will need something for storage also.
Regards Rod.

[aldav]

Hi all,
I am very interested in the out come of this thread as I am about to move (next door much better work area) and will need something for storage also.
Regards Rod.

How I envy you Rod! Not only will you have somewhere to store your wood, but you also live close enough to Mapleman to be a regular visitor to his wood emporium!

[Albert]

well my demountable storage has finally arrived from Czech.

will be busy putting it up this weekend and post pics once complete.

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[Yawally]

really ironic that what you are trying to replace (Sea Container)...actually comes dellivered by a Sea Container.
Can you tell us what the cost diferences are please.

[Lumber Bunker]

yeah, I'd like to know what the 10-15% is...
Second hand water tight shipping containers are not too exxy?

Looks good, and being able to pack it up and move it with out crane/truck/fork etc would be handy.

[Albert]

Here is the completed shed.

1. Its easier to built than I thought, but need 3+ people to build it. the actual building part took less than 3 hours, foundation I spent like 1-2 hours to make sure its all level (using PLS 5),
2. Its weather tight
3. The whole shed weighs about 600kg. the base itself is 200kg.

*its missing a blue corner bit in the completed view but it has been done now.

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[BobL]

I don't know how hot Auckland gets but if that container was in Aus I'd be putting some ventilation in there otherwise you will literally cook the wood, especially if you have only put a few pieces in there.
A few years ago I put a couple of dry slabs in an empty sea container for a couple of months and it literally destroyed them (cracked and brittle).

What needs to be minimised is the range of temperature the wood will experience so significant more ventilation will be needed than whatever weather tight sealing is provided. I'd recommend at least some vents in low down along the walls and maybe a whirly bird type vent or two.

If you don't have too much timber to put in there I would try and get some other form of thermal ballast in there, like waste wood, or large sealed containers of water, or some concrete blocks - this will help reduce the temperature rise in the day and fall at might.

Some shade cloth over the top will also help.

[Albert]

Thanks Bob, my storage suppose to have 2 vents but the company who sold it to me got it mixed up with the standard storage.

The container will be filled with kiln dried pine (30% when I am low, 85% when I just ordered a pack or two), not sure if the temperature in AKL will do anything to them, in summer its about 20 - 27 in Auckland.

Nevertheless I will put in some measure to counter the temperature issue such as concrete or sealed water.

Cheers.

[ian]

Hi Albert

I'm not sure that the temperature is as important as the solar radiation.

When Australia first went into Iraq well over a decade ago, I recall a "spokesperson" for the army commenting that although the daytime temps in Iraq were up to 10 degrees higher than in the NT, the metal on the Army's vehicles got hotter in the NT.


BobL is probably better at thermal mass calculations than I am, but my first approximation is that to be effective, the thermal mass needs to represent about 60% of the mass inside the container -- which, if you're using water, doesn't leave much space for your wood.

Perhaps a shade structure is the better option

[BobL]

BobL is probably better at thermal mass calculations than I am, but my first approximation is that to be effective, the thermal mass needs to represent about 60% of the mass inside the container -- which, if you're using water, doesn't leave much space for your wood.

Even when it is dry the wood itself can act as its own thermal inertial mass. so once the container is filled with sufficient wood other thermal inertial mass is not needed.

Perhaps a shade structure is the better option

I would do that in addition. Just adding a false roof will help.

BTW I would consider painting the container white as it is better than galv at reflecting heat.
Galv absorbs a lot of IR and will reradiate that heat back into the container.