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  1. #1
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    May 2015
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    Default Do I need a Festool rail?

    I have a Festool plunge saw but as yet no rail. From reading numerous reviews, many saws share the same rails. Is there a requirement to run the Festool saw on the Festool rail, or will any rail run the saw just fine?

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  3. #2
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    May 1999
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    Grovedale, Victoria Australia
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    Stick with a festool and you wont be dissapointed.

    you will need 2 x 1400 and 1 x 800 so you can do full sheets and part sheets.
    Jim Carroll
    One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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  4. #3
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    May 2015
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Carroll View Post
    Stick with a festool and you wont be dissapointed.

    you will need 2 x 1400 and 1 x 800 so you can do full sheets and part sheets.
    Genuine question, what does the rail offer over the Triton rail for instance?

  5. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gingerbread Man View Post
    Genuine question, what does the rail offer over the Triton rail for instance?
    Not a clue, I just stick with brand for brand.

    If you wanted a cheaper saw you would have gone with the triton saw and then purchased their track.

    You have the festool saw so stick with the festool products
    Jim Carroll
    One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Canberra
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    Default

    You sometimes see the rails for sale on eBay, but they fetch 90% of their new price.

    For a bit of extruded aluminium, it's a solid markup.

    I've the 1400 and 800 rails, the 800 is rarely used. For side sheets and other work the 1400 is always whipped out.

    While its not the same as two 1400s put together, for long sheet rips (which I do a lot of, as I do a LOT of sheet work) I have a home made rail that works perfectly.

    It consists of just two bits - a rail of 12mm mdf, 1220 long (the whole raw edge) and a strip. The rail is slightly wider than the Saw, so it initially "overflows" the width of the saw. The strip is the width of the negative trench in the saw. Glue and brad the strip onto the new rail to match the underside profile of the saw, but leaving a bit of fat on the rip side for trimming off later.

    The first use of your new rail, you will rip the edge off your rail to the exact width of the blade. This is exactly the same process employed when you replace the edge-tape on a genuine rail. This also gives you your perfect alignment marks.

    It's cumbersome to move around, but it does give you a useful long rail for next to nothing.... It will at least let you save your $$$ for a real one

  7. #6
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    I like the 800 for cross cutting the cabinet peices as I find the 1400 too awkward
    Jim Carroll
    One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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  8. #7
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    Nov 2012
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    Default

    From what I know. The festool track will fit on other saws, but a festool saw does not fit in a lot of other tracks, probably because of the tabs they have on the saw (may be it will with makita tracks). If you're really motivated, you should take your track saw to try out before you buy another brands tracks.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Willunga, Australia
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    735

    Default

    When I was looking at saws I did a lot of reading from various sources on the compatibility of the various rails with each other.

    The bottom line is even though they are close people have constant issues with them not quite fitting by just a fraction. For this reason I decided to stick with the Festool track despite the price. I ended up getting a really good price (for festool) on the TS 55 saw and track combo. I picked up a second 1.8 track a few weeks ago for $100 which was a pretty good price but it was intact but clearly well loved .

    My advice is stick with the Festool track.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Australia
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    18

    Default

    Cheers for the helpful reviews lads, if they fit but with too much play, then I'll go Festool. Thanks.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Sth. Island, Oz.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gingerbread Man View Post
    I have a Festool plunge saw but as yet no rail. From reading numerous reviews, many saws share the same rails. Is there a requirement to run the Festool saw on the Festool rail, or will any rail run the saw just fine?


    No there's not. Some Mnfr's use the exact same rail, but sell it for less. Given that the rail is now a 30+ year old design, and that its actually made by a 3rd party mnfr. its hardly surprising. Few companies could justify the massive investment in alloy foundries, rolling mills, extruders etc. to produce these extrusions, whereas specialist manufacturers selling to a variety of different onsellers can.

    Metabo's 6.31213.00 & 6.31213.70 rails (the latter with a carry bag), 6.31211.00 connector & 6.31031.00 clamps (Bessey) are indistinguishable from their Fuss-tool equivalents in all but livery. They're also significantly less expensive and each rail come complete with 2 "kickback" stops (which are really length stops for plunge cuts) which Festo charges an additional $72 per pair for.

    As a set, you'd be paying some $250-300 more for the exact same product, from the same manufacturer's factories. The sole differences are the 60% odd price premium paid and the Islamic Green/Independence Blue or Pakistan Green/Lust Red colours of the 2 respective onsellers' brand stickers.

    As a bonus, you can always ask for an additional package discount deal from your local Metabo dealer. I wound up getting a rail bag free from Metabo, making an additional 10% saving. Some particular brand's dealers are seemingly too scared to discount for fear of jackbooted price stormtroopers kicking in their door at midnight.

    Support your local independent retailer instead & get a better deal. Buy a reputable brand & your wallet, your bank manager and Australia's Balance of Trade figures will win too.
    Sycophant to nobody!

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Melbourne
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    1,091

    Default

    Some non-Festool guide rails are not compatible with the entire range of Festool tools. For example the Makita rails have a different outside 'rib' which does not allow for the correct use of the router guide rail adapter, parallel saw guides, and other accessories. Not sure about Metabo,l but by the images I see on the web it looks like the outside rib is also different (wider) an does not have anti-friction strips along it's length.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    melbourne australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nt900 View Post
    Some non-Festool guide rails are not compatible with the entire range of Festool tools. For example the Makita rails have a different outside 'rib' which does not allow for the correct use of the router guide rail adapter, parallel saw guides, and other accessories.
    It appears you can easily modify the Makita rail though:

    http://www.swedishwoodworking.com/ti...l-attachments/

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