small shed build

[3 toed sloth]

Yeah, good point Ray, I'll need those bargain points when I finally start setting up my shed the way I want it.

Another question I have is about bracing. My own shed, which a chippy built, is a single car garage size so I've been looking at that from time to time for a bit of a guide on things for this new shed. It has a sort of "V" of bracing on each side so I was thinking of doing the same on this shed build. That seems to fit in with whatever info I can find online. I'm just wondering if I need to brace the rafters? I was thinking of doing a cross with strap bracing and those tensioner thingies, but I won't bother if it's not needed.

[DaveTTC]

Would brace at least two walls, one i each direction and the roof

Personally i like to brace as many walls as possible and in both directions

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

[3 toed sloth]

Thanks Dave, sounds like good advice, I'll do all four sides and the roof.

[3 toed sloth]

Well I've finally made a start. Three walls are up, held by clamps only at this stage, and fourth wall on the ground not quite finished. Any observations, suggestions, questions, advice or otherwise more than welcome.

[ian]

Great to see your shed is starting to emerge

Any observations, suggestions, questions, advice or otherwise more than welcome.

Your new shed looks to be approximately square, with the walls all the same height.

Which way will the roof drain? and what do you have in place to manage run-off from the roof? Can you extend the eaves on the down-slope side
and just let the water sheet off onto the ground?
Given the surrounding trees, you may wish to make the roof "trafficable" so when clearing leave litter etc, you don't have to concentrate on only stepping on the rafters.

Doors?
I can only see one entry.
You may wish to incorporate another wider door on the yet to be completed wall so that you can poke long pieces outside the shed when milling them,
and easily remove completed projects from the shed.


Where will your bench be in relation to the three windows?


Eleccy conduit for the wiring required to power the shed fridge?


Jealous

[DaveTTC]

Overall looking good. If yiuare sheeting inside with sheet flooring or the like the bracing factor will be very very good.

Bracing should run from bottom plate to top plate and terminate on a plate at or very close to a stud.

Their is not huge loads on this shed so should be fine however the wall with the door should possible have a trimmer end to end to line up with the top the window and a return bace as below



The wall not yet standing could be braced like this. Green for trimming and bkue for brace



The other walls look fine. The brace that does not go to the top of the wall should be ok (though not ideal) as it terminates at a corner junction that is reinforced by other studs so the last stud is unlikely to flex under load.

I am thinking if liing my shed eventually with sheet flooring. Will provide excellent beacing, add to the thermal qualities and give ample fixong opportunities for hanging things on the wall etc

All in all nice progress

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

[3 toed sloth]

Ian, the shed isn't for me, it's for my missus for her mosaics, so no woodwork activities.

The roof has a slope of 3% so 120mm fall from door wall to other side. I'll put a gutter at the low end and drain into an old pipe going to an absorption area.

Rafters will be at 450 centres so should be good for walking on?, which I agree I'll be doing fairly often.

Thanks, Dave, for those bracing tips, I did wonder about the bracing not reaching the top plate.

I agree wall linings like timber floor sheets or ply would be great for whacking in screws and brackets wherever you need them. Looks a lot better than bare studs too.

[DaveTTC]

Minimum recommended roof slope for corrugated iron I believe is 5° or 1 in 12.

There are other profiles that allow a shallower slope. Would be good to look into it.

As for your rafters its not just the centres but the size material you are using and it's structual rating. MGP 10 for example (Machine Grade Pine 10)

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

[ian]

The roof has a slope of 3% so 120mm fall from door wall to other side. I'll put a gutter at the low end and drain into an old pipe going to an absorption area.

Rafters will be at 450 centres so should be good for walking on?, which I agree I'll be doing fairly often.

3% is a very flat roof for what looks likely to be a persistent load of leaf litter which is unlikely to wash off on such a flat roof. If it has to be 3% I think I would definitely do away with the gutter and down pipe and just let the run-off fall into a gravel filled "drain" leading to the absorption area.
A much lower maintenance option.

But you still have the risk that leaf litter dams will form with the result that rain water flows up hill. My sister has a "flat" roof on part of her house that leaf litter tends to accumulate on and only washes off when there's a torrential downfall. Her roof has no overhanging trees but still requires cleaning every 12 months or so.

I'm interested in what Dave TTC thinks, but for me I'd be inclined to space the rafter purlins at around 300mm so that I could place my feet anywhere.

[DaveTTC]

The drain idea is good so long ad it is well orchastrated (did I spell that right), would not want to undermine the foundations.

Most iron is good for 1200 end span and 900 mid span. I think the 450 centres should be nore than adequate for the sake of walking on.

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

[3 toed sloth]

Thanks, Ian, I take your point about the roof slope. The roof sheet profile I'm using is Trimdek which specifies minimum 2% fall. They do warn that at such minimal slopes, everything has to be perfect or you risk getting flat spots. So I went an extra percent. I didn't want to go for too much slope as I wanted to maintain the height inside as much as possible.

With the run off I chose a gutter to avoid the constant dampness at ground level from dripping which might attract white ants. I'm also very close to next door's fence so didn't want to cause runoff problems for next door. There are no eaves so the downpipe will not have an offset, just a straight piece of 90mm pipe so should minimise blockages there. I'll put an open grate at the base of the DP so if the drain backs up, it will just overflow on the ground.

Good point about maintenance, the last thing I need is another gutter to clean, but there again it's the wife's shed sooo.......

[ian]

You may wish to read Lysaght's roofing manual http://www.bluescopesteel.com.au/fil...ualJul2015.pdf
Lots of good info there, including warnings on the possibility that on flat roofs wind can blow run-off water under the sheets.

I'm not sure that roofing products made outside Lysaght's facilities conform to the same base metal thickness and durability as the "genuine" stuff.

[3 toed sloth]

Thanks for the link Ian, I have seen that before and it's a great source of information. Fortunately, on this roof the prevailing winds will blow down the roof slope. I will notch out the flashing over the ribs as recommended to avoid water and debris being blown up under the flashing, and turn up the top end of sheets for further protection.

The roofing I'm using is not Lysaght but is supplied through Stratco. I also wondered if there is a difference but the specs are exactly the same as far as I can tell.