Let the shed extensions commmence!

[FenceFurniture]

I've got about a cube of joists from the Cypress flooring (Club) which are 4x2" Mixed Norfcoast Hardwood. They vary from perhaps 600mm to 1300mm long and these will be used for the decking itself as it needs to be pretty damned sturdy.

I started work on dressing them this arvo - slow going as any residual nails have to be punched down every pass of 1mm reduction (gotta love that Nail Kicker - set to minimum depth).

Even though they will have a roof over them they'll be very exposed to high humidity during rain, and some rain will fall onto them. I'd like to have a minimum gap between them, of say 2-3mm to prevent screws and stuff dropping through to the nether reaches, and the top face (95mm finished width) will be finished with Sikkens Decking Wotsit.

To accommodate that minimum expansion gap the other three faces will need to be sealed, and I figure that as they won't be seen they best sealer would be good old paint (primer coat plus one top coat). The paint would also provide the best protection for rotting etc - wouldn't it?

What say the Brains Trust?

[Pat]

Weekend shed raising . . . that might be doable . . . I can even bring my own tools . . .

[ian]

Hi Brett

at the risk of offending you ...

in my opinion the layout you're adopting for the extension is very inefficient

[FenceFurniture]

Hi Brett

at the risk of offending you ...

in my opinion the layout you're adopting for the extension is very inefficient

Hi Ian, no offence taken.

What are your thoughts, and where do you think it's inefficient?

These things always change when the machines are in there and being used of course. At the moment I'm just trying to see what will fit with suitable spaces around them (some will be moved into a different position for certain lengths of timber etc). It may be that not all of those machines are ever in there (limited purchasing budget).

Take the Kapex for example. The stand would not always be at full extension, and I've position it so that timber can come straight in through the back door because with long pieces docking is usually the first process.

I forgot to mention earlier that underneath the new shed there will be around a metre high storage area (mainly for timber). I'll probably largely close that off to the weather but leave plenty of breathing gaps for storing green timber

[ian]

Hi Ian, no offence taken.

What are your thoughts, and where do you think it's inefficient?

These things always change when the machines are in there and being used of course. At the moment I'm just trying to see what will fit with suitable spaces around them (some will be moved into a different position for certain lengths of timber etc). It may be that not all of those machines are ever in there (limited purchasing budget).

Take the Kapex for example. The stand would not always be at full extension, and I've position it so that timber can come straight in through the back door because with long pieces docking is usually the first process.

"usually" you will take a board (or a number of boards) out of the wood rack and using chalk or similar mark the components you need to win from each board.
where possible you will want to dock to approximate length at the wood rack -- possibly with a battery powered saw.

in the workshop the breaking down process will likely involve a table (both as a work surface and a staging area), your bandsaw and docking saw (kapex) with possible trips to the jointer between saw cuts.
taking a short bit off a full length stick should be a fairly rare occurence.

after jointing and thicknessing, you will probably want to visit the Kapex frequently as you cut out snipe and bring components to the length that fits their place in the build.
so my inclination is to place the kapex away from the centre of what will be a run-way, and possibly locate it close to the bench.

depending on what you see yourself building, you might want to locate the table saw somewhere largely out of the way.
Unless you are breaking down sheet goods, most of the time the table saw may need no more than a foot or so of outfeed space.

[twosheds]

Hi FF

I have one suggestion and one criticism.

Suggestion: If you get rid of the clothesline you can make your shed extension even bigger. Remember, a shed is never big enough.

Criticism: I cannot see a fridge for refreshments. Maybe you could have one in the assembly area and one in the dusty area.

Regards
Twosheds

[FenceFurniture]

"usually" you will take a board (or a number of boards) out of the wood rack and using chalk or similar mark the components you need to win from each board.
where possible you will want to dock to approximate length at the wood rack -- possibly with a battery powered saw.

in the workshop the breaking down process will likely involve a table (both as a work surface and a staging area), your bandsaw and docking saw (kapex) with possible trips to the jointer between saw cuts.
taking a short bit off a full length stick should be a fairly rare occurence.

after jointing and thicknessing, you will probably want to visit the Kapex frequently as you cut out snipe and bring components to the length that fits their place in the build.
so my inclination is to place the kapex away from the centre of what will be a run-way, and possibly locate it close to the bench.

depending on what you see yourself building, you might want to locate the table saw somewhere largely out of the way.
Unless you are breaking down sheet goods, most of the time the table saw may need no more than a foot or so of outfeed space.

Thanks Ian. Yes I'm sure the layout will change when the room is fully loaded, but that will take quite some time. At this point the layout is just to make sure I can fit it all in to the given space and be able to put a 2.4m stick through the appropriate machines.

[FenceFurniture]

Criticism: I cannot see a fridge for refreshments. Maybe you could have one in the assembly area and one in the dusty area.

The kitchen is not far away....

[FenceFurniture]

Does anyone have some input to this question please?
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...83#post1885683

[DaveTTC]

If i get this right the flooring aka deck will be heavy duty 4 x 2's.

Will you have a tongue and groove?

Sealing is good. Pending on how tight you want the joints to come up i would be going for a thin sealer. Paint is thick and will make the tongue and groove tight and may not close up even between the boards.

If i have missed something or got it wrong i await correction.

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

[FenceFurniture]

No T&G Dave, just a 2-3mm gap, which will hopefully be enough for expansion in the suitably sealed timber.

[DaveTTC]

Paint sounds gine then

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

[NCArcher]

Do you need to use the full 4x2? could you resaw to 4x1. Even after dressing you would still have around 19mm thick boards. I am assuming they are going onto joists of some description.

[FenceFurniture]

Do you need to use the full 4x2? could you resaw to 4x1. Even after dressing you would still have around 19mm thick boards. I am assuming they are going onto joists of some description.

Eez no possible to resaw - way too many embedded nails in the middle of the boards. Besides, I'd really like the sturdiness of the (now) 45mm thickness so that there is no flex in the boards when giving something a decent whack (say a cheeky woodworker ).

Yes they'll be on joists.

I've got enough of these particular boards to cover it anyway. I'll dock them to the nearest 150mm to maximise them, which means I'll have to do a careful plan of the joists and where the particular length boards go, so I don't have to have joists at every 150mm centre (which uses up too many of the longer sticks). Simply a matter of yet another Excel layout to get them in the right pozzie.

[rwbuild]

Brett, don't use paint to seal the edges and bottom of deck, it initially stops the timber from breathing and actually holds the moister in and the only escape is evaporation and sweating through the top and the paint eventually cracks and then there's no way to successfully redo the edges or bottom.. Use a good quality decking oil that allows the timber to breath and re-sealing as required. Also, use Protectadeck on your joists, I have mentioned this before, it completely protects the bearers and joists (99% of rot and decay is from the top edge) and lessens the amount of decay/rot on the bottom of the deck board where it sits on the joist. I assume you will be using gal or SS batten screws to put the boards down with, make them FLUSH with the top, anything below the surface holds moister.

This has grown substantially since our last talk at the GTG with Dave. No shed is ever big enough