Let the shed extensions commmence!

[FenceFurniture]

Good stuff Ray, thanks for that.

Brett, don't use paint to seal the edges and bottom of deck, it initially stops the timber from breathing and actually holds the moister in

Does this still apply to 60 yo joists?

I assume you will be using gal or SS batten screws to put the boards down with, make them FLUSH with the top, anything below the surface holds moister.

Yes, SS preferably, and yes intend to make them flush. I picked up a Carbitool combo countersink at the show and it work very well indeed.

[FenceFurniture]

.... way too many embedded nails in the middle of the boards.

Damn! One snuck past me when I docked it with the Kapex today. I say, the blade did a beautiful job slicing down the middle of the nail - the finish on the steel was immaculate!

Fortunately I had changed back to the old 60 tooth blade for this, so not a real big deal.

[rwbuild]

Applies regardless of age of any timber that is exposed to the elements where it is trafficable especially

[FenceFurniture]

Also, use Protectadeck on your joists, I have mentioned this before, it completely protects the bearers and joists (99% of rot and decay is from the top edge) and lessens the amount of decay/rot on the bottom of the deck board where it sits on the joist.

Ray, would it be a good idea to use Protectadeck on the underside of the decking boards as well? Does it do any moisture sealing (i.e. will it double purpose?)

Also, many of the 4x2 and 4x3 long sticks are already treated with creosote (the real deal). Usually it's the thin edge and half way up each face, and this treated side was facing down so that it has little to no nail holes in it. If I faced this treated side UP for th bearers and joists would there still be a need to use Protectadeack over the creosote?

[crowie]

I'm just signing up for the ride, good discussion & info flowing......
If you need help on the shed raising day, I could help as a gofer.....
Cheers, Peter

[Simplicity]

I to am just looking in
Can't wait to see the pics
How far are you from Melbourne?


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[FenceFurniture]

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Drive to Sydney and turn left for an hour.......

[Simplicity]

Sounds simple
9 hours equals about 4 coffees
And thank god i gave fags up that would I've been at least half pack


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[FenceFurniture]

Actually, my preferred route from Melbourne is to turn left at Coolac (just north of Gundagai) and then up through Young, Cowra, Bathurst. 15 minutes longer, shorter kms, much more scenic, and without the frenzy of Sydney....

[Simplicity]

I keep that in mind
Thanks Brett
Are you going to do a shakers style barn raising(shed raising)


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[FenceFurniture]

The idea is that once the foundations are done, the bearers and joists are fairly quick and straightforward - two man job no worries.

Apparently the frames will be constructed before they are erected, but they'll surely have to be in sections so they can be lifted - not forgetting that there'll be hardwood involved, as well as Douglas Fir. After dressing a bit of it over the last two days there's a lot of Tallow wood amongst it, and that stuff is DAMN heavy!

Not sure yet if we'll put the yellow tongue floor down before erecting the frame or not. Before sounds good to me if it doesn't alter the logistics too much.

[Simplicity]

Before sounds very good idea Brett
In regarding the yellow tongue or the green younger or the red tongue
Nice clean floor to build frames on makes it much easier much nicer [emoji3]



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[FenceFurniture]

Before sounds very good idea Brett
In regarding the yellow tongue or the green younger or the red tongue
Nice clean floor to build frames on makes it much easier much nicer

Dat's wot I'm tinken.

[rwbuild]

Bret, Protectadeck is a neoprene rubber type product in rolls of 15Lm x 50mm for floor joists and 90mm for bearers.

The real enemy is the moister trapped between the joist/bearer where they intersect and the deck boards where they intersect with the joists.
It has a 10mm turned down wing each side which disperses the moister away from the vertical faces. Normal decking boards from the hardware has a beaded profile on 1 side which is the bottom of the deck board and this allows airflow to disperse the moister much quicker. The trapping and holding of moister where 2 timbers cross with no profile on the bottom of the deck board is the result of capillary attraction.

Seeing as how you are very particular and thorough in everything you do and go to great lengths to make things in the best manner possible, you could route or on a TS, a drip groove about 10mm deep and 6mm wide 6mm from each edge on the bottom of the deck boards and this in conjunction with the protectadeck will virtually guarantee almost no moister under the deck boards and at the deck/joist intersection.

With the butt joints of the deck boards just seal the end of each board with the decking oil, dont forget to run a 2mm chamfer in the joins, eliminates splintering.

[FenceFurniture]

This is the area where the deck will go. You can see under the dusty how far down I went, and the layers of earth, then ash (which id really easy to dig - hit it with a mattock and it all falls apart). The skillion roof would be more or less the same line as the left side of the roof, which faces north, and would continue over the deck.







At the other side it's about 500-600mm deep:




That's an area of about 4x4m. Took 2 days digging due to a huge amount of roots on the top side, a couple of barrows of concrete pieces to dig out, and of course rocks to stop the shovel going in.

Now all I have to dig out every day is a couple of cat scats. The little buggers love this ash, and it's a bit fresh just outside the shed door.....


Pics of the area at the back of the shed tomorrow.

Shed front excavation 3.jpg Shed front excavation 2.jpg Shed front excavation 1.jpg