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23rd August 2015, 07:23 PM #16
Beautiful work Evanism. I can see why you're after a high quality drill bit set.
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23rd August 2015, 08:23 PM #17Retired
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6th January 2016, 10:09 AM #18Hewer of wood
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Thanks for that vid link elanjacobs. Worth a go.
Another option for twist bit sharpening, that leaves the geometry in tact, is just to use a needle file in the flute. I use a tapered diamond file. Pretty easy and quick. Tip courtesy of Leonard Lee.Cheers, Ern
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6th January 2016, 01:19 PM #19Retired
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FenceFurniture sent me some Colt drill bits from France.
Wow, those brad point bits are super SUPER well made. Every one of them is precission made and super sharp. I can't wait to use them.
I couldn't find anything nearly as good here in Aus. The stuff from China is made to a price, but the stuff I get thats made in Europe, US and Canada is unbelievable in its quality.
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6th January 2016, 01:26 PM #20Hewer of wood
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Yeah, Colt do some very nice Forstners as well. (Thanks to FF for those, too).
They're all a challenge to sharpen though.Cheers, Ern
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6th January 2016, 01:51 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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I use these from carbatec pricey but good https://www.carbatec.com.au/drilling...SizeProduct=12
Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs .
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9th January 2016, 11:24 AM #22
Evanism
One thing not yet mentioned for neat drilling is the role of the drill.
* My Ryobi does not drill as neatly as the Makita.
* The Makita does not drill as well as the AEG.
* The AEG does not drill as neatly as the Festool.
And a drill press usually drills far better than I can drill freehand.
Love your little critters! Nicely conceptualised and executed. Well done.
Fair Winds
Graeme
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9th January 2016, 01:28 PM #23Retired
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Very true. I use a drill press for close to everything. The chuck in the Trade Tools press is junk (the machine is OK) and was replaced with a half decent one. Drills quite straight, but nowhere near what I need.
An upgrade to a Jet might be in order.
I love making robots. Love it. They can be made of scrap and you can entirely make them up as you go. Use old springs, nails, interesting little doodads like typewriter mechanisms etc. Im making a few more today!
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9th January 2016, 01:32 PM #24
Funny, I read your post about an hour ago Graeme, and then a knock at the door brought about a problem to be solved for the neighbour's parasol (the shaft had snapped).
Result was that I had to drill freehand through a 50mm long block of 15x15mm Ironbark to slip both ends of the parasol tube into. Used a 5/16" Colt brad point with a Protool drill (which is a cracker and exceptionally smooth to use).
So, a definite yes to your observation about the quality of the power drill and the subsequent precision of the hole.
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9th January 2016, 02:25 PM #25
The bearing system is also very important. You need absolutely zero vibration and absolutely zero wobble. This is where quality is worth paying for.
If you have not used a Festool or Protool drill lately, then go along to a Festool centre for a demo. It is enlightening, ..... and addictive!
Cheers
Graeme
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