Need a New Table Saw NEW TO WOODWORKING

[onlysixshooter]

Hey all I am new here.
I am also relatively new to woodworking.
I have been making my own furniture but been very limited..I have been using a drop saw to cut my timber which is quite hard when you need to cut wide panels straight.
So I just purchased a cheap table saw the other day
http://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-150...e-saw_p6290283
This one to be exact.
I only opted for the cheap one as I am on a tight budget and well I am new so shouldn't be spending huge amounts..
I have used it today and noticed the fence mustn't be very parallel to the saw blade as my cuts are 1-2mm off. which is a huge problem.
I know I was just getting a cheapy but I didn't think that meant inaccuracy like that.
I just thought it would mean cheap parts lol

So I am going to take it back and get a different one.
http://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-180...e-saw_p6210593

This one to be exact as thats the only other one thats on my budget and thats pushing it.

Can anyone give me any advice please

[Superbunny]

Hey all I am new here.
I am also relatively new to woodworking.
I have been making my own furniture but been very limited..I have been using a drop saw to cut my timber which is quite hard when you need to cut wide panels straight.
So I just purchased a cheap table saw the other day
http://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-150...e-saw_p6290283
This one to be exact.
I only opted for the cheap one as I am on a tight budget and well I am new so shouldn't be spending huge amounts..
I have used it today and noticed the fence mustn't be very parallel to the saw blade as my cuts are 1-2mm off. which is a huge problem.
I know I was just getting a cheapy but I didn't think that meant inaccuracy like that.
I just thought it would mean cheap parts lol

So I am going to take it back and get a different one.
http://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-180...e-saw_p6210593

This one to be exact as thats the only other one thats on my budget and thats pushing it.

Can anyone give me any advice please

It's not unusual to have to adjust a new saw fence first time. You need to make the adjustment relative to the blade.

SB

[dazzler]

There are a few things to do. Firstly open it at the shop and check the table for flatness. You may find they are all out and you will always have trouble.

Second if you get it home spend a lot of time getting it aligned.

Third. You may need to modify the fence to get one dead square. Even a new piece of rectangular aluminium RHS from Ali supplier.

The alternative, a better one IMO, is return it and buy a good quality circular saw with the largest blade and build your own dead flat and square saw.

There are a few on YouTube and one fantastic one at I think Jords Wood channel.


[emoji204][emoji85][emoji86][emoji87]

[Just_Me]

Or you could do what I have just done, keep an I out on Gumtree in your local region.
I just picked up a Ledacraft M2325a with the sliding table for what you are looking at paying for the Ryobi
I do have to work out what adjustments do what to square up the sliding table, no manual, but other than that it is in good condition.
Something like this set up would be far better for you..

[MagicJ]

Or you could do what I have just done, keep an I out on Gumtree in your local region.
I just picked up a Ledacraft M2325a with the sliding table for what you are looking at paying for the Ryobi

They didn't happen to have a second one for sale did they

How do you like the sliding table, as it looks to be fairly lightweight?

[ian]

Hey all I am new here.
I am also relatively new to woodworking.
I have been making my own furniture but been very limited..I have been using a drop saw to cut my timber which is quite hard when you need to cut wide panels straight.
So I just purchased a cheap table saw the other day
http://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-150...e-saw_p6290283
This one to be exact.
I only opted for the cheap one as I am on a tight budget and well I am new so shouldn't be spending huge amounts..
I have used it today and noticed the fence mustn't be very parallel to the saw blade as my cuts are 1-2mm off. which is a huge problem.
I know I was just getting a cheapy but I didn't think that meant inaccuracy like that.
I just thought it would mean cheap parts lol

So I am going to take it back and get a different one.
http://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-180...e-saw_p6210593

This one to be exact as thats the only other one thats on my budget and thats pushing it.

Can anyone give me any advice please

$220 for a table saw is a great deal.
provided the main table is flat and the mitre gauge slot is parallel to the blade, you should budget the time to fiddle with the fence to get it parallel to the blade -- or replace it with a home made fence.
(two days ago I looked at a portable saw costing about 5 times what yours cost and even at that price, the fence wasn't automatically parallel to the blade.)

persevere some to get the fence parallel to the blade before your next lot of cuts.

BTW, have you set the fence to the left or right of the blade saw?
The pictures on the Bunnings site show both orientations. I've only ever use a saw where the fence was to the right of the blade.

[Just_Me]

They didn't happen to have a second one for sale did they

How do you like the sliding table, as it looks to be fairly lightweight?

I only picked it up Monday night and have to give it a tune up first, check blade alignment , runout etc and the see if the sliding table is running parralell.

This will be the hardest part to adjust with no instructions, looking at newer ones, there is a stabiliser leg at the far end.

I don't have this, so will have to make one, it should be strong enough for the sheets I will end up breaking down on it.

Bargains are out there, just a matter of being patient and keeping an eye out...

[AlexS]

I haven't had a look at that particular saw, but it's not unusual to have to make adjustments. The steps, in order, are:

1. Adjust the position of the table so that the mitre gauge slot is parallel to the blade. This probably means loosening the bolts that hold the top to the body and tapping the top until it's in the right position. Measure accurately.
2. Adjust the fence so it's parallel to the blade. There may be a one or two grub screws on the front, on either side of the fence clamp handle. When you think you have it right, rip test piece and make sure you're not getting big saw marks or burns on one side of the cut.
3. Check the position of the blade angle stops to make sure they are at 90 & 45 degrees. To check the 45, put 2 pieces of wood through, and check that when you put the mitres together, they make a 90 deg angle.
4. The mitre gauge, if there is one, is probably not real accurate. It may be worth getting a good one like an Incra.

[ian]

I don't think "only six" is paying attention