Spotted Gum decking cupping

[FenceFurniture]

I am interested whether you guys would say this for all spotty decks or only because I have wide boards

Any deck, but particularly those exposed to the elements so much. Maintaining it isn't so bad. You can get a broom like applicator that rips through the job in no time (or you can hand-paint all four sides with two coats in the shed before laying like I did )

[DaveTTC]

Ideally I would oil any deck

FF, 1000's of older homes across Australia have t&g for their veranda. As Ray said. They have fall and the boards run in the direction of that fall.

If I redo my front veranda it will be T&G. It is on the shelteted side of the house away from prevailing wind and rains.

PC yes with my veranda I could probably with no treatment. I have no idea how old the present boards are. I assume they have been replaced and there is no particular evidence they have been maintained in anyway. They do not show any significant need to be changed and they are T&G. Either way, new or old, the veranda will be oiled

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

[rwbuild]

Any timber deck needs oiling regardless of timber type or size excluding wharf type decking

[Lappa]

With regard to the jarrah t&g deck, it is predominately under cover. Houses of that vintage ALWAYS had the joists with a 25mm in 2.4mfall to the outside and the boards run in the same direction which shed any water. The ends were painted to protect the end because that was the part that got the most moister and also minimised spliting of the boards.

Totally agree. That's why I had problems understanding why no timber suppliers were willing to sell me the tongue and groove flooring saying that I had to use decking because the gaps would allow the water to run off.
Had to get it from Coffs and wait 3 months to have it milled in standard lengths, not random, saying it was for just for inside flooring

[problem child]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I will oil it in summer, not sure about pulling them all up yet.

what was that ad "oils ain't oils'. Anyone know which one to use? I have some timber beams inside which I oiled with Cutek CD50 but they went dark. It also cost about $200 for 15 litres. Ouch.

[FenceFurniture]

Any decking oil has to have a slight tint to do any effective UV protection. I'm using Minwax Decking Oil "Natural" for my deck. It has a very slight yellow tint (and I do mean slight), and is not enough to change the timber colour appreciably.

These are the results I'm getting:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...05#post1894405

Oil without a tint means no UV protection.

[AngelaPetruzzi]

The most difficult part in choosing a deck coating will alwaysbe what is required for rejuvenation.
True oils penetrate whereas some “modified” oils having a Urethane component which will partially penetrate and partially sit on top. Any coating which sits on top will naturally wear unevenly and may necessitate sanding. As ventilation is an issue, you may want to consider the vapour permeability (breathability) of the product.

Whilst one may want a “clear” coating on their decks, one can actually work with the timber colour. E.g. Teak on Merbau will highlight the redness of the timber, whereas an oak stain will highlight the yellow green tones of spotted gum. Both will actually appear clear as they are highlighting the timber colour and as FenceFurniture mentions, tints/pigments assist in theUV protection.