External Cedar Finish

[Boardstiff]

I'm building an outdoor sauna and am about to start the door (nearing completion). I'm using slabs of western red cedar 113 wide by 67 thick with glass insert 3/4 vertical length. I've cedar in the past externally and have always had problems having to sand and reseal within 3-5 years.

The rest of the external cladding will be in stone so it's only the door and some trimming that needs sealing, does anyone have experience using WRC externally and do you recommend a product? Could even be a wax/oil if one exists?

Im after a flat finish not gloss.

Thanks

[Toymaker Len]

It might be a bit of an acquired taste but all over north america you will see external cedar just left to go silver and it looks very good.

[Boardstiff]

It might be a bit of an acquired taste but all over north america you will see external cedar just left to go silver and it looks very good.

Yes it's very acquired, I've seen this done with cladding on many projects I can't help but think the finish and colour of the wood has been wasted.

I'm thinking of using a modified outdoor wood furniture oil or perhaps just use Tung oil.

[mike100jobstodo]

You could use opaque finishes like paints and solid colour stains, semi-transparent stains, natural finishes like water-repellents or oil finishes. Opaque finishes are longer lasting than the other finishes. However, with many opaque finishes, the natural look of your wood might be gone when you use them. I think your best bet is to use solid colour stains as they still allow you to maintain some of the natural look and texture of your wood.

[FenceFurniture]

I'm putting some Cypress boards on my shed face, and I've done them in Sikkens (Light Oak I think). To get any UV protection the product must have some kind of tint. Light Oak turned the already yellowish boards a little more yellow but certainly within tolerance. It gets very good reviews from other members here (I ran a thread).

Pretty complete range of products so consult the paint guy at the hardware store.

[AngelaPetruzzi]

The most difficult part in choosing an external coating with our sun will always be what is required for rejuvenation. Some syntheticproducts do last longer than natural oil however may then require quiet a bit of time to resand and treat again. How often can you resand a surface?
Typically, natural penetrating oils, and Livos is only one, will require annual rejuvenations....but, this is simply completed by ensuring the surface is clean and dry, and reapplying a refresher coat. There is no peeling or cracking of the coating and therefore no sanding required. Another point is any drops will not harm any vegetation.

[Xanthorrhoeas]

Sorry to tell you, but oiled and clear finishes do NOT seem to stand up long term, at least here in Brisbane. I tried architectural use of Cypress (Callitris) and Western Red Cedar (WRC) with a range of oiled finishes, clear marine varnishes etc. Now they are painted or grey. Otherwise you will need to re-coat annually at best and the surfaces still deteriorate (here in Brisbane anyway).

Having said that, I am persisting with Australian cedar doors and a marine oils system Deks Olje. I am up to five years on now, with one decent light sand and re-coat. the weather may beat me eventually but so far, albeit with darkening evident, the Deks Olje is holding up.

A man that I knew who has a superb Huon Pine boat in South Australia has used a product called Coelan, supposedly a self-healing finish but apparently wickedly expensive. I don't know how that is going but maybe search the web for Ione II - it may be there (I have not checked).

Good luck.