Stanley/Bailey No4 & 7 restoration

[springwater]

I'm restoring a couple of Stanley/Bailey planes (made in England) No4 & 7. I'm hoping to buy a tote, bolt and nut set for the No.4 and just the screw for the front of the tote on the No.7. Does anyone have any spares they'd like to sell?. I'm close to buying a Veritas Apron plane with A2 blade which I intend to use mainly for arissing edges and have chosen it over a similarly priced Jim Davey tuned block plane. Your thoughts on that decision would be appreciated.
Cheers

[Gabriel]

Have you considered making your own tote? I have just finished one for an old no. 5. Not too difficult (youtube vids were easy to find and leeValley have the pattens you need in pfd for free)

very satisfying using that tool now!!

Just a thought
Cheers

Gab

[springwater]

Yes I have Gab, in a pinch I probably could but I don't really have the tools to do the drilling and bolt recesses accurately and then there's the question of authenticity, let alone some sentiment involved with the previous owner. That being said though they're to be worked with and if that takes just getting a plastic handle to do so, so be it.

[TongueTied]

I don't have experience with the Jim Davey block plane but I have the Veritas Apron Plane and love it. It is my goto plane and often wonder why I have others.

[Ratbag]

Plane hardware is available here

http://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/...-rosewood--phw

Any further spare are easily obtainable from flea-bay. Note there's some drilling required: the front screw of the tote/toat/handle for the #7 for instance, and the additional clearance for handle stabilisation nib if for the #4.

Cheapest price around (imports cost as much or more, plus O/S airmail). Lovely Indian rosewood, at least the couple that I've bought over the years were, & easily adaptable to the majority of the Stanley/Record lines of planes.

[IanW]

Thanks for that heads-up, Ratbag. I've looked at their site a few times, but never found the Stanley spares section (they have a rather cryptic heading for it!). A good selection of just the sorts of individual bits & pieces that go missing or get damaged on old planes, and as you say, at prices that are reasonable....

Springwater, those handles Ratbag pointed to are not too bad, and while they aren't the exact same Rosewood of the premium handles of yore, at least it's the same genus and a reasonable facsimile. I doubt you could buy the wood & make them for any less than the asking price - especially if you screw one or two up along the way!

Making a handle isn't all that difficult, but you're right, drilling the long screw hole can be a bit tricky. It's relatively straightforward if you have a drill press & a DP vise that you can set it up in, but even then, the drill can wander off course. I find it best to drill halfway from each end, but I've still had a few good bits of wood wrecked by drills going off on their own merry way. Some planes also have a raised boss for the handle screw on the sole, which needs an approximately 5/8" diameter hole counter-sunk to about the same depth, to fit over it, but if your plane has the flat mounting you won't need to worry about that.

Marking out the hole for the little locating nib on the #4 requires a bit of care, too. For some reason, no matter how carefully I measure the distance between stud & nib, I sometimes get it a bit off. You can mark the approximate spot by slipping the handle on, & pressing down hard to make a little indentation in the wood, but remember, because of that sloped screw, the handle moves back a little more when it comes right down onto the sole, so you need to judge how much further forward the hole centre actually has to be. Fortunately, the fore-aft position isn't so critical, the nib is just to stop the handle twisting in use, so if your hole is a wee bit off & you have to extend it a fraction to get the handle to sit down, it's no big deal.

Cheers,

[springwater]

I don't have experience with the Jim Davey block plane but I have the Veritas Apron Plane and love it. It is my goto plane and often wonder why I have others.

Thanks Tonguetied, it looks like you're not alone in your opinion of Veritas Apron Planes from what I've read. Here's Jim Davies' site if your interested:
http://www.jimdavey-planes-sharpening.com/page1.aspx

[springwater]

Thanks for the advice Ratbag & Ian. I'll contact The Wood Works regarding my needs because the link given by Ratbag is for "Replacement handle and knob kit for #5 and larger Bailey planes", maybe they have just the handle, nut and thread for my #4 or can guide me to one. At least I can get the missing screw I require for my # 7.

[Luke Maddux]

I've used the Apron Plane and I actually like it so much I'm considering trading in my full sized Veritas block planes for it. It's just a really fantastic size and is just as functional as a full sized block plane.

I am almost certain I have some spare Stanley knobs. If so, you can have them for free. I'll be back in Brisbane over the weekend and will look around. I'll PM you if I find anything.

Cheers,
Luke

[derekcohen]

When making a Stanley (or similar) handle, the trick is to drill the hole first (having orientated the grain), and then draw the outline around this. Do not try and drill the hole after shaping the handle.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[springwater]

I've used the Apron Plane and I actually like it so much I'm considering trading in my full sized Veritas block planes for it. It's just a really fantastic size and is just as functional as a full sized block plane.

I am almost certain I have some spare Stanley knobs. If so, you can have them for free. I'll be back in Brisbane over the weekend and will look around. I'll PM you if I find anything.

Cheers,
Luke

Thanks very much for the offer Luke but both my knobs are ok except for a hair line crack on #4 which I can live with. I reckon I'm sold on the Veritas, better buy one before the price goes up.

[springwater]

When making a Stanley (or similar) handle, the trick is to drill the hole first (having orientated the grain), and then draw the outline around this. Do not try and drill the hole after shaping the handle.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek, I assume you mean the grain should be orientated in the same angle as the hole and run down towards the base?

What tools has anyone used to make one? I'm fine with rasps and maybe spoke shaves but please don't say spindle molders or routers as using one of those on such a small piece send a bit of a shiver down my spine.

[derekcohen]

This is exactly what you want to do: plan the hole and grain together, drill the hole, then shape the handle (I use rasps) ...



Link: http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/planetote.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[springwater]

(I use rasps)

Good man, that's good to know and thanks for the picture to make things clear!

[springwater]

Just some thoughts...I wonder why the tote on Stanleys' #4 plane is only fixed at one point thus a pivot point albeit supported by a little nub rather than held more securely with a toe screw like the larger planes? I'm leaning towards having a go at making a tote now I've taken in what's required, I'll let you know how I go.