Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 14 of 14
Thread: Kreg Router Insert plate
-
27th November 2015, 10:12 AM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 106
Kreg Router Insert plate
Got the kreg router insert plate.
I have the JOF001, so I can't buy a predrilled router plate.
Tried to free hand countersink...completely botched it.
I've seen all the videos that shows how to drill those countersink holes and all of them use a press drill.
I can't exactly justify buying a press drill for the sake of 3 holes.
What countersink bit is suitable for this application.
-
27th November 2015 10:12 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
27th November 2015, 11:51 AM #2
would a set-up like this work for you?
or would one of these be an option for you?
or one of these?
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
-
27th November 2015, 12:41 PM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 106
That would make it straight for starters.
What countersink bits are quality?
I bought a pack of 4 P&N from Bunnings.
Absolute rubbish.
Blunt from day one. Especially when you use on MDF, it just burns the wood.
-
27th November 2015, 01:04 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Albury
- Posts
- 3,035
For wood and soft metals you can't beat a HSS cross hole countersink like these - https://www.carbatec.com.au/drilling...-sink-hss-4pce. If you look around you will be able to find them cheaper, EBay? You don't need the 'bees knees' set for wood. Beautifully smooth cuts, even with a hand held drill, no comparison to those juddering toothed jobs.
Cheers,
David
-
27th November 2015, 02:10 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 106
yes those are what i need.
beautiful.
-
27th November 2015, 02:23 PM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 106
ok now i'm really confused.
looked up cross cut counter sink bits and there are 82 vs 90 degrees!???
-
27th November 2015, 02:37 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Albury
- Posts
- 3,035
I've got 90 degrees, they work fine.
There's probably not much point in spending any more than this set - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4pcs-Cham...UAAOSwPcVVsfp8
-
27th November 2015, 03:03 PM #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 106
i agree.
-
27th November 2015, 03:09 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 1,147
I took delivery of a Kreg bench top router table a few days ago and yesterday started to mount the router to the insert plate but the countersunk bolts from the router plate were not long enough to go through the Kreg plate and into the router base so I had to improvise by using a 13mm spade bit to countersink the dome head cupboard handle bolts into the insert. So a spade bit will do the job as you only have to go down a few mm.
-
27th November 2015, 05:16 PM #10
depends on the angle of your machine screws
from Dr Google ...
- American SAE is 82º
- Metric is 90º
or"Taken from my Unbrako catalogue (high tensile fasteners, the best you can buy in my opinion), they call them "flat head screws":
- 90 degrees: Metric, B.A, BSW, BSF threads.
- 82 degrees: UNC, UNF threads"
so what are your screws SAE or Metric or UNC / UNF thread?
But I'm also confused
I have never had a problem with hand drilling countersinks
Drill the through hole first then the countersink bit is guided by the hole.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
-
27th November 2015, 06:40 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Albury
- Posts
- 3,035
Totally agree ian, but let's not make it any more complicated than it needs to be. If you use 90 degree countersinks in wood, soft metals or plastic you really can't go wrong. Unless you hamfistedly overtighten the machine screws or you're using brass or small diameter stainless screws. Whoops! (Yes that is the polite version of what I'd actually say.)
Cheers,
David
-
28th November 2015, 12:18 AM #12Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 106
-
28th November 2015, 10:07 AM #13Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Sydney Upper North Shore
- Posts
- 4,470
My first Kreg plate I used for my Makita came with no screws so I bought countersunk screws that suited rather than use the short existing domed screws.
My second Kreg insert plate designed for the Triton came with countersunk screws that were plenty long enough to mount my router to the plate.
-
28th November 2015, 07:52 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 1,147
I drilled pilot holes for all the mounting screws and adjuster bolt with a 3mm drill in the drill press first, then used the spade bit with the cordless drill. Spade bits are the easiest to use freehand because as soon as you start the cut you can see if you are plumb and its easy to adjust. The Black polly material these inserts are made from is great to work as it cuts smooth and neat and doesn't chip.
It won't matter if you drill freehand and are out a bit of angle, just use the bit to ream the hole a mil or two bigger than the the screw. The bigger the hole the less you have to countersink.
<object type="cosymantecnisbfw" cotype="cs" id="SILOBFWOBJECTID" style=" display: block;"></object>
Similar Threads
-
Kreg - Triton Router Plate Insert Holes Not Matching Up
By tolyinoz in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 15Last Post: 11th November 2015, 10:21 PM -
Kreg insert plate issues
By delbs in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 9Last Post: 11th May 2014, 10:29 PM