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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    Default Kreg Router Insert plate

    Got the kreg router insert plate.
    I have the JOF001, so I can't buy a predrilled router plate.

    Tried to free hand countersink...completely botched it.

    I've seen all the videos that shows how to drill those countersink holes and all of them use a press drill.

    I can't exactly justify buying a press drill for the sake of 3 holes.

    What countersink bit is suitable for this application.

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  3. #2
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Default

    would a set-up like this work for you?



    or would one of these be an option for you?


    or one of these?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #3
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    Default

    That would make it straight for starters.

    What countersink bits are quality?

    I bought a pack of 4 P&N from Bunnings.

    Absolute rubbish.
    Blunt from day one. Especially when you use on MDF, it just burns the wood.

  5. #4
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    For wood and soft metals you can't beat a HSS cross hole countersink like these - https://www.carbatec.com.au/drilling...-sink-hss-4pce. If you look around you will be able to find them cheaper, EBay? You don't need the 'bees knees' set for wood. Beautifully smooth cuts, even with a hand held drill, no comparison to those juddering toothed jobs.

    Cheers,
    David

  6. #5
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    Default

    yes those are what i need.

    beautiful.

  7. #6
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    Default

    ok now i'm really confused.
    looked up cross cut counter sink bits and there are 82 vs 90 degrees!???

  8. #7
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    I've got 90 degrees, they work fine.

    There's probably not much point in spending any more than this set - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4pcs-Cham...UAAOSwPcVVsfp8

  9. #8
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    Default

    i agree.

  10. #9
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    Default

    I took delivery of a Kreg bench top router table a few days ago and yesterday started to mount the router to the insert plate but the countersunk bolts from the router plate were not long enough to go through the Kreg plate and into the router base so I had to improvise by using a 13mm spade bit to countersink the dome head cupboard handle bolts into the insert. So a spade bit will do the job as you only have to go down a few mm.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwf9984 View Post
    Got the kreg router insert plate.
    I have the JOF001, so I can't buy a predrilled router plate.

    Tried to free hand countersink...completely botched it.

    What countersink bit is suitable for this application.
    Quote Originally Posted by wwf9984 View Post
    ok now i'm really confused.
    looked up cross cut counter sink bits and there are 82 vs 90 degrees!???
    depends on the angle of your machine screws

    from Dr Google ...
    • American SAE is 82º
    • Metric is 90º

    or
    "Taken from my Unbrako catalogue (high tensile fasteners, the best you can buy in my opinion), they call them "flat head screws":

    • 90 degrees: Metric, B.A, BSW, BSF threads.
    • 82 degrees: UNC, UNF threads"


    so what are your screws SAE or Metric or UNC / UNF thread?


    But I'm also confused

    I have never had a problem with hand drilling countersinks
    Drill the through hole first then the countersink bit is guided by the hole.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I have never had a problem with hand drilling countersinks
    Drill the through hole first then the countersink bit is guided by the hole.
    Totally agree ian, but let's not make it any more complicated than it needs to be. If you use 90 degree countersinks in wood, soft metals or plastic you really can't go wrong. Unless you hamfistedly overtighten the machine screws or you're using brass or small diameter stainless screws. Whoops! (Yes that is the polite version of what I'd actually say.)

    Cheers,
    David

  13. #12
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    Default

    Did you drill using a press drill or free hand?

    Quote Originally Posted by double.d View Post
    I took delivery of a Kreg bench top router table a few days ago and yesterday started to mount the router to the insert plate but the countersunk bolts from the router plate were not long enough to go through the Kreg plate and into the router base so I had to improvise by using a 13mm spade bit to countersink the dome head cupboard handle bolts into the insert. So a spade bit will do the job as you only have to go down a few mm.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    4,470

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by double.d View Post
    I took delivery of a Kreg bench top router table a few days ago and yesterday started to mount the router to the insert plate but the countersunk bolts from the router plate were not long enough to go through the Kreg plate and into the router base so I had to improvise by using a 13mm spade bit to countersink the dome head cupboard handle bolts into the insert. So a spade bit will do the job as you only have to go down a few mm.
    My first Kreg plate I used for my Makita came with no screws so I bought countersunk screws that suited rather than use the short existing domed screws.
    My second Kreg insert plate designed for the Triton came with countersunk screws that were plenty long enough to mount my router to the plate.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwf9984 View Post
    Did you drill using a press drill or free hand?
    I drilled pilot holes for all the mounting screws and adjuster bolt with a 3mm drill in the drill press first, then used the spade bit with the cordless drill. Spade bits are the easiest to use freehand because as soon as you start the cut you can see if you are plumb and its easy to adjust. The Black polly material these inserts are made from is great to work as it cuts smooth and neat and doesn't chip.

    It won't matter if you drill freehand and are out a bit of angle, just use the bit to ream the hole a mil or two bigger than the the screw. The bigger the hole the less you have to countersink.

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