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14th January 2003, 05:49 PM #1Russell Stanley Guest
Filling large knot holes in timber
I want to fill large knot (say 20mm in diameter and same depth) holes in a table top with a clear material so that it becomes a feature and can be smoothed and finished level with top of table. What do I use and where may I obtain it.
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14th January 2003, 06:39 PM #2
You could try a clear general purpose polyester resin and hardener. The name brand that I have in the mag I am reading is .... Norglass.
<a href="http://www.northshoredistributors.com.au/body_norglass_marine_products.html">
<font color="#808080">
Norglass</font></a>
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May the stink be with you
[This message has been edited by Sir Stinkalot (edited 14 January 2003).]Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.
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14th January 2003, 07:40 PM #3
Clear casting resin. Available from most places that work with fiberglass. Can be coloured or all manner of things can be imbedded in it like red back spiders etc. I have a couple of small carved platapussies in my coffee table.
You can also put bits of thread into it or gold leaf or any other thing that takes your fancy.
It's great stuff.
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17th January 2003, 01:16 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Yes I agree. I work in fibre composites research. Araldite LC3600 epoxy system is perfectly clear and excellent for this situation. Watch the quantity in the hole, you don't want it getting too hot and blistering, burning or bubbling etc. 20mm should be ok.
Don't make the mistake of mixing in either too little or too much hardner. Either way you end up with goo. Too little and it will go off - eventually, too much and it never - repeat NEVER - will.
Polyester resins shrink too much for this kind of thing (8% is standard, some are 12%). Epoxies don't shrink at all.Semtex fixes all
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17th January 2003, 07:41 AM #5
The casting resin I use is Araldite M from Meury Enterprises in western Sydney - may be the same system as above. Mix 2 parts resin to 1 part hardner - DON"T vary the proportions. To get bubbles out of large volumes, use a hot air gun - doesn't seem to affect the setting. The batch I've got is about 4 years past its use by date, but still seems to work OK. It's been kept in a cool place.
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17th January 2003, 01:02 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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I wouldn't be using heat to get air bubbles out of epoxy. Nothing gets epoxy going like heat. You will just have to be very carefull mixing and pouring.
Use by dates on resins are only important if you are interested in obtaining ultimate mechanical properties, eg aerospace applications, but for woodworking applications such as this, it should be ok.
I should add that you want to make sure you get a laminating resin, as these are much thinner than epoxy adhesive (some adhesives are VERY thick, like old, dried plasticine).
Remember also that epoxies are exothermic, and I have had tins of mixed resin smouldering before they could be used. Heat kicks the curing process off, which produces more heat, which...
[This message has been edited by q9 (edited 18 January 2003).]Semtex fixes all